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I think he may have meant head gasket
 

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Header gasket won't leak oil. It will leak exhaust and you will hear it.
And
How much oil are you putting in ?
You say it leaks untill a certain level and then stops. What "level" are you speaking of?
The oil level and I'm glad you told me this. Other than oil my car doesn't leak anything, I think the auto mechanic was trying to exploit the flaw in my engine but I think I'd know if the header gasket was leaking. To be honest I think I may have just put too much oil in the car. I got a low oil warning about a week ago, so I put a quart in there and nothing has leak out since...I may just change the gasket anyway since the car's an 07' just to keep it in tip top shape...

Thank you so much for this post.

And yes I meant the head gasket. But I think this may be the issue as well...
 

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I need to check mine. My cars been dripping oil. I took it to get the oil changed instead of doing it myself back around November and they said the oil pan gasket was bad that's why it was dripping. Bought the gasket like two months ago just haven't had time to change it. I'll be sure to check this as well.


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An alternate method

I have done a couple of these, did one this morning, but I found it easier to remove the exhaust manifold. It comes out without too much trouble and then you have a wide open shot to the oil filter base. To remove the manifold, 1st remove both heat shields covering the manifold and the crossover pipe, loosen the heater hose tubes below the throttle body to get room to remove the heat shield. Also remove the torque strut closest to the front of the engine, along with the vertical bracket it attaches to. You can now unbolt and remove the manifold and have easy access to the oil filter base.
If you want even more room, take the radiator fan out also!
 

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I really enjoyed your write-up, having just done this job on my car I wanted to add there exist several videos however:

1. Like you I found the best method is to remove the belt (and thus coolant reservoir), and the wheel too.
Some videos claim it's not necessary but you have so much more room to work with.

2. Personally if I ever do this job again I will order the oil sensor in addition to the gasket, because of the size of the job I believe it best to replace both especially since you'll have the adapter in your hands and it's a simple matter.
You might be able to inspect it after cleaning but mine was so covered in filth I just went ahead and replaced it.

3. I got to most of this from under the front bumper, other than the part with the compressor.
It helps to have some light so you can see the adapter, it's a whole lot easier once you get a good look at it.
 

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Just did mine..well mostly.. I lost the damn top bolt! Anyone have a way to look up the size of that top bolt on the housing?

Taking the tire off my 2011 was unneded.. jus tneeded to remove a small plastic covering covering the bottom of the compressor belt which was held on by 3 push pins. i removed 2 and rotated it down and out of the way on the third one in the back. Then i was able to move the belt with my socket and get it on the bolt for the compressor (bottom). the upper one i was able ot easily get to. Then on the opposite side of the compressor i had to loosen that bolt a lot. Then i used an extension to move the compressor to get a socket on the lower housing bolt.

If you have an oil cooler, do yourself a favor and swap out the housing for the non oil cooler model.
that oil cooler and lines are very expensive. The hose alone cost me $100 to have another one made from my old hose. buying new is even way more expensive. Now my oil cooler is leaking so that's why i'm removing it. i'm not about to spend almost $400 on a used one. I will sell my hoses for $200 or so instead.

anyway i'm here hoping someone has a way to look up that top bolt size. anyone?
 
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