Joined
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38 Posts
ok so,,
An offset control arm is generally a shaft forged with the bushing area forged off set from shaft center line, some cheaper ones use heavy material and shave one side.
Either way it allows the upper arm too drop inward to correct the camber.
As long as there is thread showing out side of nuts you can keep adding shims. Try to leave atleast one thread outside of nuts as most are crimp nuts.
NOW if you actually need more space you MIGHT be able to find slightly thinner grade 8 crimp type lock nuts, usually gives another 1/16 shim or so.
As for caster go for as high a positive as you can and still get better camber, and actually dropping the camber closer too negative side of specs. Add some better geometry maybe tall ball joints if needed.
Experimenting with no springs or shocks and run through whole range of movement too see if it goes positive or negative as you raise the wheel.
Then you can work out if tall ball joints revise camber gain, or correctly negative camber gain. AS you want wheels falling inward as tire rses in wheel wheel under compression.
You could also possibly upgrade to SPC type arms. Look up SC&C and ask for Marcus, he can whip you up a set, probably has everything ready to go.
And as for my credentials, I am an ASE Master Automotive Technician with nearly 30yrs of experience.
An offset control arm is generally a shaft forged with the bushing area forged off set from shaft center line, some cheaper ones use heavy material and shave one side.
Either way it allows the upper arm too drop inward to correct the camber.
As long as there is thread showing out side of nuts you can keep adding shims. Try to leave atleast one thread outside of nuts as most are crimp nuts.
NOW if you actually need more space you MIGHT be able to find slightly thinner grade 8 crimp type lock nuts, usually gives another 1/16 shim or so.
As for caster go for as high a positive as you can and still get better camber, and actually dropping the camber closer too negative side of specs. Add some better geometry maybe tall ball joints if needed.
Experimenting with no springs or shocks and run through whole range of movement too see if it goes positive or negative as you raise the wheel.
Then you can work out if tall ball joints revise camber gain, or correctly negative camber gain. AS you want wheels falling inward as tire rses in wheel wheel under compression.
You could also possibly upgrade to SPC type arms. Look up SC&C and ask for Marcus, he can whip you up a set, probably has everything ready to go.
And as for my credentials, I am an ASE Master Automotive Technician with nearly 30yrs of experience.
