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So my 2010 3.5L has been starting to act weird. When driving at highway speeds around 65-70 mph my rpm gauge starts bouncing up and down and if I keep giving it gas it eventually drops the gauge to 0 yet the engine is still running. This randomly started happening one day and never knew what it could have been. When this happens the engine seems to be running off balance almost like a misfire but I don’t know what it could be. It has clean oil and oil filter. Also sometimes the car stalls on me when hitting a bump or when steering a tight corner but starts back up no problem, sometimes it might struggle a bit but it always starts back up. It gives me codes p0011 and p0336. The car still drives when the gauge drops to 0 but it really lacks power and shifts rough. But all I have to do is shut it off and turn it back on and rpm gauge starts working perfectly fine. HELP!
 

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So my 2010 3.5L has been starting to act weird. When driving at highway speeds around 65-70 mph my rpm gauge starts bouncing up and down and if I keep giving it gas it eventually drops the gauge to 0 yet the engine is still running. This randomly started happening one day and never knew what it could have been. When this happens the engine seems to be running off balance almost like a misfire but I don’t know what it could be. It has clean oil and oil filter. Also sometimes the car stalls on me when hitting a bump or when steering a tight corner but starts back up no problem, sometimes it might struggle a bit but it always starts back up. It gives me codes p0011 and p0336. The car still drives when the gauge drops to 0 but it really lacks power and shifts rough. But all I have to do is shut it off and turn it back on and rpm gauge starts working perfectly fine. HELP!
Most likely an electrical issue. Something is loose and causing intermittent lapse of power to the ignition system, gas guage, tachometer, and whatever else anytime you hit a bump or make a sharp turn.
 

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I forgot to mention that when the rpm gauge drops the car is jittering and shaking, especially when under a load or going uphill. This happens when I’m going around 65-70 or when I’m going uphill. This is when the rpm gauge drops to 0 and the car starts running weird. I’m not sure if it’s something electrical because the code says different so I’m not sure. I’ll put a picture of the codes. But something leads me to believe it could be one of those. Maybe an oil leak near a sensor because I remember seeing somewhere that an oil leak near one of these sensors can cause a car to have invalid readings and it can cause the computer to go crazy but I’m not sure
 

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I forgot to mention that when the rpm gauge drops the car is jittering and shaking, especially when under a load or going uphill. This happens when I’m going around 65-70 or when I’m going uphill. This is when the rpm gauge drops to 0 and the car starts running weird. I’m not sure if it’s something electrical because the code says different so I’m not sure. I’ll put a picture of the codes. But something leads me to believe it could be one of those. Maybe an oil leak near a sensor because I remember seeing somewhere that an oil leak near one of these sensors can cause a car to have invalid readings and it can cause the computer to go crazy but I’m not sure
My first instinct is that the P0336 code - crankshaft position sensor - explains most of it. For sure, if the computer loses track of where the crankshaft is, a misfire is certainly possible. It's not clear if that might somehow also cause the P0011 - I don't have experience with that.

The P0336 could be due to a bad crankshaft position sensor, or maybe a wiring issue. My next step would be to inspect the wiring to the two sensors - make sure the connectors are fully seated, and that the wires are not damaged. Also inspect the wiring to the camshaft actuator to be sure it's in good condition.

If the wires are OK, I would probably put in a new crankshaft position sensor. It's a pain to get at, but do-able. After that, if the codes don't come back, you're done. Otherwise, you'll have to pursue the P0011 further.

The P0011 means the computer "has determined that the bank 1 intake camshaft is more advanced than what the ECM has commanded it be" according to Google. Is that because the actuator didn't move it, or because the sensor is reading it wrong? So, if the P0011 persists, further diagnosis is required.

Just as the crankshaft position sensor failing can cause the engine to run poorly, so too can the cam timing being off.

But multiple, simultaneous failures are not that common. So when multiple codes pop up, it's often due to a wiring issue, or due to one failure causing multiple related codes.

I no longer have a 3.5L motor, so I can't go study it. But as I recall, there is only one cam (in the block), and hence only one camshaft sensor. As I sit here drinking coffee still half asleep, it's not clear how a bad crankshaft sensor can somehow also trigger a P0011 unless they share some common wiring which has become damaged. So that's why I would inspect the wiring to both sensors first.

Crankshaft position sensors are in the 30-40 dollar range at Autozone. Camshaft position sensors are in the 25-45 range. The camshaft actuators are a bit more pricey, in the range 95-160 dollars.

Regarding an oil leak affecting a sensor, externally, a leak could affect the wiring, causing a bad signal. Inspecting the wires will show if that's the case. Internally, the crankshaft position sensor lives in oil, so that's not an issue.

HTH.

Doug

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I no longer have a 3.5L motor, so I can't go study it. But as I recall, there is only one cam (in the block), and hence only one camshaft sensor. As I sit here drinking coffee still half asleep, it's not clear how a bad crankshaft sensor can somehow also trigger a P0011 unless they share some common wiring which has become damaged. So that's why I would inspect the wiring to both sensors first.
Well in my mind the position of the camshaft has to be in reference to something else in order to tell if its in time. I would assume that it would reference the crankshaft in order to check that it is in time. If it doesn't know where the crankshaft is, I don't see how it could tell if the cam is in time. I could be wrong about how they are related though. Checking wiring is definitely a good idea though.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Would you recommend doing this myself?? And what is this re learn tool I saw on the other thread. I want to try and tackle this problem myself
 

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I would definitely start with the crank shaft position sensor. It is sort of easy to get to on the one side of the engine. I had that on my 06 3.5 Lt 8th generation after I purchased it (used vehicle) and I believe it was the same 2 codes. The Sensor is a triangular mounted set of magnetic that keep track of the crank shaft as it turns and powers the motor on the passenger side (around the belts area). I would not start with electrical stuff at all unless the wiring going to the crank shaft sensor is worn or broken and the sensor itself is tested as good.

"symptoms of the P0336 code?
Check Engine Light will come on
One or more cylinders may misfire
Car may hesitate upon acceleration
Car may start irregularly or won’t start at all
Engine may vibrate/sputter
Car may stall or backfire
Loss of fuel economy
Variations in speed, acceleration, and/or idling functions"
 

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Would you recommend doing this myself?? And what is this re learn tool I saw on the other thread. I want to try and tackle this problem myself
If you got some basic tools and don't mind getting a little dirty, I would try it yourself. It is not complicated, the sensor is just in a difficult spot to reach so it isn't much fun. Mine didn't need the relearn procedure. If yours does, I believe you would need to bring it somewhere that has a tech2 programmer or something similar. It is not something you can do yourself unless you have the right programmer (which is 700-2000$ depending which one you get).
 

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Is the sensor as difficult to put back in or just removing it is the difficult part ??
It's about the same. It is only held in buy one nut. As soon as I found a way to easily access the nut, it wasn't bad at all. But there was a little work involved to get access to the nut. Don't think it would take more than an hour for me to do the entire thing again now that I would know what I was doing.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
When I remove the engine mounts, do I need to unplug/disconnect any wires/hoses that might get tugged on when I lean the engine forward ??
 

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So my 2010 3.5L has been starting to act weird. When driving at highway speeds around 65-70 mph my rpm gauge starts bouncing up and down and if I keep giving it gas it eventually drops the gauge to 0 yet the engine is still running. This randomly started happening one day and never knew what it could have been. When this happens the engine seems to be running off balance almost like a misfire but I don’t know what it could be. It has clean oil and oil filter. Also sometimes the car stalls on me when hitting a bump or when steering a tight corner but starts back up no problem, sometimes it might struggle a bit but it always starts back up. It gives me codes p0011 and p0336. The car still drives when the gauge drops to 0 but it really lacks power and shifts rough. But all I have to do is shut it off and turn it back on and rpm gauge starts working perfectly fine. HELP!
I agree with Doug!
 

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When I remove the engine mounts, do I need to unplug/disconnect any wires/hoses that might get tugged on when I lean the engine forward ??
There should be enough slack in all that stuff to tolerate the short distance moved. Unless someone has re-routed some wire harness, for example, you shouldn't need to loosen or disconnect anything.

Doug

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Discussion Starter #19
Forgot to ask... do I have to jack up the vehicle at all or can it be done without jacking the car. Because I see you mention that it can only be seen from underneath the car
 

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Forgot to ask... do I have to jack up the vehicle at all or can it be done without jacking the car. Because I see you mention that it can only be seen from underneath the car
If you want to look at it, you need to raise it enough to get under the car. If you know where it is and what you are trying to grab, the car doesn't need to be raised to access it from the top.If you have a helper around, it may be easier to have them guide you from underneath the car as you are reaching in from the side.

Also that was the correct sensor by the looks of it. As well, you should have no issues moving the engine forward. It doesn't move far, just an inch or two to give you some extra clearance. If its due...this is a great time to do the spark plugs as well.
 
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