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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi I have a 1995 Caprice/Impala that I want to get to 400-500 HP or more naturally aspirated but I also want to put custom 22” wheels on so I don’t know how much power I want exactly for a summer driver with big wheels.

I bought the car for a decent price with a clean under body, solid body with minor dents & imperfection from Florida with a Impala SS Interior also all the Impala parts that are on this Caprice were from the previous owners wrecked Impala SS including supposedly an engine swap because the dash says 200,000 miles and the engine out of his Impala had 80,000 on it but who knows if he swapped it.

When driving it home it seemed to be under powered and the engine was missing so I heard it could be the Optispark, & tune up and was wondering what the best Optispark & rotor & cap was for the price & performance?

So far I’ve changed the rear end to the Impala SS disc brakes & had the body worked on a little.

So how do I find out if the engine has been changed is their a vin on it and if it hasn’t with 200,000 miles will it hold up with new heads, cam, etc for a summer street driver?

I was thinking of going with LT4 Heads, LT4 Head Bolts, LT4 Intake Manifold, GM Hot Cam Set with Roller Rockers, 58mm Throttle Body, 36p Injectors but I’m no mechanic and prices on this stuff is high and there are many companies out their like Patriot Performance that make their own stuff for cheaper.

So what’s a good quality setup for what I want to do and what exactly needs to be done besides the performance stuff if the car has high miles & better safe then sorry stuff?

If I opt to change the engine what’s a quality crate engine from a respected trustable company for a good price?

Please list specific parts for what I need because I’m a little over whelmed on what needs to be done from reading some other posts and I’m trying to get the mechanical stuff taken care of so I can finish the body to have it ready to go and any help would be great thanks.
 

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So how do I find out if the engine has been changed is their a vin on it and if it hasn’t with 200,000 miles will it hold up with new heads, cam, etc for a summer street driver?
No vin "on" the engine, but there may be a stamping somewhere to id it as an LT1, although I wouldn't know where.

I was thinking of going with LT4 Heads, LT4 Head Bolts, LT4 Intake Manifold, GM Hot Cam Set with Roller Rockers, 58mm Throttle Body, 48p Injectors but I’m no mechanic and prices on this stuff is high and there are many companies out their like Patriot Performance that make their own stuff for cheaper.
why not just swap in a complete LT4? no sense putting parts on an engine that may not even be what it's said to be, ya know?

So what’s a good quality setup for what I want to do and what exactly needs to be done besides the performance stuff if the car has high miles & better safe then sorry stuff?

Please list specific parts for what I need because I’m a little over whelmed on what needs to be done from reading some other posts and any help would be great thanks.
If you have the budget, then I'd say look into an LT4 swap/conversion.
Have you searched that? From what I've read, crazy power can be made with those engines. :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
To Fordtruckfreeek

I know it’s a LT1 I just don’t know if it has been swapped for the lower mile engine with 80,000 on it.

Have you found a place with a complete LT4 swap package?
 

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The LT4 package is not a good idea, the LT4 engine not a great idea either.

Golen has a better reputation than he has engines. Ellwein is not taking orders.

Here is what I have done and by most accounts this is a good running car.

www.advancedinduction.com heads and cam package, I have the old 190cc package with the 226/234 cam the newer 200cc package is better, has better springs which can handle a little more cam and performs better.
Have their ported intake too.

58mm TB
RAISS cold air intake
f-body MAF
Racetronix fuel pump and wiring
Would recommend 30lbs SVO injectors or maybe 36lbs trickflows
Need a built tranny, I have a www.pro-built.net over 5 years old, very happy.
3400 stall Edge Racing Converter drives nicely and launches wonderfully
3.5" aluminum driveshaft, think mine is an Inland Empire, seems most 3.5" aluminum options are good
3.73 gears and an Eaton posi, most find 3.42-4.10 to be acceptable to see if 4.10s would be OK by you try D not using OD for a week or two that will be similar to the cruise rpms of 4.10s and OD. Eaton posi I am starting to doubt the long term reliabiliy of, it works sofar but is giving indications of clutch wear, might try something else because rebuilding it cost almost as much as a new one:mad:.
The performance I have had with the car has been with 1 5/8" midlength headers, recently swapped in 1 3/4" www.focuztech.com longtubes have not raced with them yet, at this level of performance these headers should be a good thing. Have been using 2.5" x-pipe exhaust but am going to swap to 3" with an x-pipe.

I have BMR rear lower control arms, but would instead recommend UMI.
I have Monroe severe service shocks on front. Bilstein 0929(stiff) on back, SS springs all around. Airlift bags in the rear springs to preload the passenger side to keep rear level at launch.
AC ABS still there, car is truely a driver.
pcmperformance.com is helping me dial the tune in better as the old tuning left something to be desired.

People like to dismiss the car as a drag car, but spring through fall I put more miles on it than my wagon. This time of year driving it is pointless, near Green Bay Wi and between the salt and the cold even IF the roads are dry I can't enjoy the power as it wont hookup at legal speeds.

This video was taken 150 miles from home, put 370 miles on the car that day all on one tank of fuel so mileage is not bad given the power.
[ame=http://s39.photobucket.com/albums/e179/95SStorm/?action=view&current=DJOct0811985at11336.flv]
[/ame]

This virgin GM shortblock has 50K miles or so on it. I put a metal oilpump driveshaft in it and a new higher pressure relief spring in the oilpump, never pulled a bearing cap or anything.

This setup is easily duplicated and will perform better than most of the more popular options and do so for less money.

If you have any doubts about the engine consider rod bolt replacement and new bearings. The only real problem with the stock shortblockis if spun usually 6500 or more they can spin rod bearings, the stock rod olts stretch a little and let things bet beat up. Within that limit the stock shortblock actually works very well and is more reliable than most of what guys put togther as cheap "performance" engines. There are a lot of parts that are popular but not good.
 

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Some of you know me some don't, the blue fenders are because I actually drive this car a lot. Living where I do driving means risk of deer impact, working the hours I do pretty much guarantees deer impact :mad:.
 

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Nice to see you here Dwayne :smile:


Great video! :cool:


Stewart

Welcome Dwayne, I agree good video!

Looks like more and more from the other forum are dropping in here. Which is a good thing, I think...
 

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Still gawk at how that thing moves! I hope to be in at least low to mid 12s late this year. Depends on funding.... Christmas kills my mod budget.
 

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I just picked up a 94 SS from the original owner. Has 75K on it and runs flawlessly. I would like to do some minors mods to get a little more out of it.... I'm thinking chip, cold air intake n possibly some exhaust. There are so many brands put there can anyone suggest some good ones or good combos???
Thnx mdh
 
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