Darinf01
If I let the car sit for a night I can drive again maybe for a block before engine power reduced starts again. It don't start when I turn the car on unless I turn it right back on if I wait and try again it don't come on right away until I drive a lip. Replaced spark plugs and throttle body now im.getting a map sensor code or some
B1440 :
BCM senses an open or short to voltage on the off/run/crank circuit when both ignition accessory/run and ignition run/crank parameters are active.
BCM senses an open on the B+ circuit to the ignition switch while the engine is running.
An open on the B+ circuit can be caused by a short to ground on any of the circuits listed below:
• B+
• Accessory
• Run/crank ignition voltage BCM terminal 19, X4
• Off/run/crank
You have a power distribution problem. You're going to have to track down where you have an intermittent short or open. This can cause most of the other litany of codes.
Check, clean, and lube your main battery connections. I've seen Bubba installed positive battery terminals with a loose 10ga main power connection cause this. For some reason the heavier gauge starter wire is usually making good contact.
Check the heavy gauge battery ground cable connection to the engine.
Check the harness ground stack near the engine transmission split at the front of the engine. The 14ga harness grounds have a bad reputation for corroding off. If they are corroded you'll need to make up some 14ga or 12ga ring terminal repair pigtails and splice them onto the harness with adhesive heatshrink butt splices or solder and adhesive lined heatshrink.
Check the engine bay fuse-relay panel main battery power connection. Usually this one isn't fouled up but it doesn't hurt to take a look.
If all of that is OK pull the fuse relay panel off the strut tower and take a look at the harness connections off the bottom. If you see a bunch of corrosion or rodent damage you've likely found your culprit or at least one of them.
It's also worth opening the air filter box and making sure you don't have resident rodents wreaking havoc in the ECM/TCM wiring. The air filter keeps them out of the intake tubing and engine but they love that airbox for some reason and they chew up the ECM & TCM wiring and piss in it. I glued some 1/8" hardware cloth over the lower opening of the airbox with Epoxy to keep them out.
If the mice are chewing on the wiring I'd get a chunk of 1/4" mesh hardware cloth to fit tight in the cavity under the cabin air filter to keep them out of the blower and HVAC system too.
BCM senses an open or short to voltage on the off/run/crank circuit when both ignition accessory/run and ignition run/crank parameters are active.
BCM senses an open on the B+ circuit to the ignition switch while the engine is running.
An open on the B+ circuit can be caused by a short to ground on any of the circuits listed below:
• B+
• Accessory
• Run/crank ignition voltage BCM terminal 19, X4
• Off/run/crank
You have a power distribution problem. You're going to have to track down where you have an intermittent short or open. This can cause most of the other litany of codes.
Check, clean, and lube your main battery connections. I've seen Bubba installed positive battery terminals with a loose 10ga main power connection cause this. For some reason the heavier gauge starter wire is usually making good contact.
Check the heavy gauge battery ground cable connection to the engine.
Check the harness ground stack near the engine transmission split at the front of the engine. The 14ga harness grounds have a bad reputation for corroding off. If they are corroded you'll need to make up some 14ga or 12ga ring terminal repair pigtails and splice them onto the harness with adhesive heatshrink butt splices or solder and adhesive lined heatshrink.
Check the engine bay fuse-relay panel main battery power connection. Usually this one isn't fouled up but it doesn't hurt to take a look.
If all of that is OK pull the fuse relay panel off the strut tower and take a look at the harness connections off the bottom. If you see a bunch of corrosion or rodent damage you've likely found your culprit or at least one of them.
It's also worth opening the air filter box and making sure you don't have resident rodents wreaking havoc in the ECM/TCM wiring. The air filter keeps them out of the intake tubing and engine but they love that airbox for some reason and they chew up the ECM & TCM wiring and piss in it. I glued some 1/8" hardware cloth over the lower opening of the airbox with Epoxy to keep them out.
If the mice are chewing on the wiring I'd get a chunk of 1/4" mesh hardware cloth to fit tight in the cavity under the cabin air filter to keep them out of the blower and HVAC system too.
So when I unlock the door or open the door I hear a clicking noise nor sure if that would be the same problem. Also thanks I'll see what I can manager to check or find out.
The clicking sounds like one of the Blend Door motors on the HVAC plenum.
This could be the HVAC controller getting intermittent power or ground so it's re-starting the blend door motor calibration over and over.
Fixing stuff like this is like peeling an onion. It takes patience. Fix the short or intermittent in the main power distribution wiring then save a snapshot of the codes, clear all the codes, and fix whatever comes back as still broken.
This could be the HVAC controller getting intermittent power or ground so it's re-starting the blend door motor calibration over and over.
Fixing stuff like this is like peeling an onion. It takes patience. Fix the short or intermittent in the main power distribution wiring then save a snapshot of the codes, clear all the codes, and fix whatever comes back as still broken.
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