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· 8th Gen Antagonist
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13,660 Posts
Find the coil spring and brake lines at a junkyard, get the tie rod from the auto parts store, should be around $100 for everything. What the hell happened to your car?
 

· 8th Gen Antagonist
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13,660 Posts
Oh and you should be able to either rent a spring compressor from the parts store, or take the strut assembly to a shop and have them swap it, should be cheap.
 

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3,399 Posts
MONROE Part # 181662L Econo-Matic Complete Strut; Incl. Coil Spring; Bearing Plate; Insulator; Boot Kit
Rear Left (Driver); 16 In. Wheel; 17 In. Wheel; 18 In. Wheel; Except Police; Except Taxi; Not For Use w/17 in. or 18 in. Wheels

$76.79

RAYBESTOS Part # 4011707B Service Grade
Outer

$10.12


do those two yourself ;)
 

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18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
i have no idea what happened lol i went for the safety had no idea anything was wrong the car didnt seem to run any different for me but i got a quote from a shop and it was 1400 so said f that ill do it my self i got a buddy who will probably be able to help me
 

· 8th Gen Antagonist
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Well those parts don't effect how it runs, they effect how it drives.
 

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quick struts are the way to go, all in one, and for 75ea, get both fronts, its literally,
remove 2 lower strut to spindle bolts, remove 3 15mm bolts in engine bay, wiggle out, and reversre procedure!
tie rods are also fairly simple but the jam nut can be a bear to loosen, and remove.

IMO do both tie rods, both struts @ home, get 2wheel alignment, have them run the brake lines!
 

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18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
did the tie rod and strut with new spring today
got the strut and spring used off a old impala and a new tie rod spend about $100
the spring on the old strut had about 2" of the spring blown off (about 1 wrap of the spring steel) was a pain to get off and put the new one on without a spring compressor i did it all with ratchet straps.
as for the tie rod i had to cut off the bolt attached to the wheel hub and all that stuff and i had to cut off the jam nut and the new one went on marked the old spot with tape and alignment feels better then before and now i have 2" more travel on the front left wheel

edit: if i can get in tomorrow at my friends shop with a lift im going to do my brake lines tomorrow from the looks of it i only need 2 done
 

· 8th Gen Antagonist
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Why did you need to compress the spring if you were replacing the strut and the spring? I would get an alignment done, I know it feels ok, but you are going to eat through front tires like crazy if you don't.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Why did you need to compress the spring if you were replacing the strut and the spring? I would get an alignment done, I know it feels ok, but you are going to eat through front tires like crazy if you don't.
the spring and strut needed to be compressed about 2" to attach to the car
and i put the tie rod in the same place (counted turns and measure using dial calipers) the alignment actually feels better then before it used to pull now it dosent i may check it quick while at the shop tomorrow if i can get in
 

· 8th Gen Antagonist
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13,660 Posts
Still don't understand how that works, the control arm should have enough flex to get it in. As for the tie rod, thats a good starting point, but who's to say it was right before?
 
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