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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Anyone have experience using these on either the trans line or power steering line? Scotty Kilmer said they can cause trouble if they clog and block the flow which is why they don’t have them on there in the first place but the manufacturer claims there is a bypass valve if the filter got totally clogged. Are they worth the risk if changed regularly? What is considered regular for each system? Thanks in advance!!
 

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I run them in the transmission return lines. I change them every other engine oil change... around 10,000 mile intervals. Fluid every four or so... 20,000 miles.
They have a bypass valve just like your engine oil filter. If it plugs up it just bypasses.
On a high mileage transmission I change the fluid several times in 500 mile intervals to rinse the system out before adding a filter. Then I change the filter at 1,000 mile intervals for the first 5,000 miles to catch any leftover crud.

You can cut em open with a big pipe cutter like a Ridgid 4S. It'll let you see the state of things. If the filter looks clean after two or three 1,000 mile changes then move to the 10,000 mile cycles.

Power steering is debateable IMHO. I change the fluid every 50K or so and leave it at that.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I run them in the transmission return lines. I change them every other engine oil change... around 10,000 mile intervals. Fluid every four or so... 20,000 miles.
They have a bypass valve just like your engine oil filter. If it plugs up it just bypasses.
On a high mileage transmission I change the fluid several times in 500 mile intervals to rinse the system out before adding a filter. Then I change the filter at 1,000 mile intervals for the first 5,000 miles to catch any leftover crud.

You can cut em open with a big pipe cutter like a Ridgid 4S. It'll let you see the state of things. If the filter looks clean after two or three 1,000 mile changes then move to the 10,000 mile cycles.

Power steering is debateable IMHO. I change the fluid every 50K or so and leave it at that.
thanks. I plan on putting it on the trans line after I do a flush and filter change so should be good. Also installing a pan with a drainplug on it.
 

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thanks. I plan on putting it on the trans line after I do a flush and filter change so should be good. Also installing a pan with a drainplug on it.
Use Dexron VI fluid. It's inexpensive and if it says Dexron VI on the bottle it meets the GM spec for the fluid. Dexron VI is Dexron VI. I've used the WalMart Supertech Dexron VI and the AC Delco stuff when it was cheaper. There's no difference as long as they say Dexron VI... Avoid the snake oil that says "Dexron VI Compatible".

Don't flush the transmission or take it somewhere to let a shop flush it. Chemical transmission flushes do more harm than good.

Change the contents of the pan on the 4T65E or do a case drain on the 6T70. I weld a drain bung into the transmission pans if it doesn't already have one.
If the fluid is especially nasty I'd do three or four 500 mile drain and re-fill cycles before you put the filter in place. This will safely get rid of 85-90% of the old nasty fluid.

There's a GM TSB that outlines changing the pan magnet and adding a second magnet to the 4T65E transmission pans. I posted it on this site. Do it even with the Magnefine in place it's worthwhile.

You can remove the hot fluid line from the transmission cooler and clear the transmission out by pouring fresh fluid in the fill pipe while it's being pumped out the hot fluid cooler line but you run the risk of running the fluid pump dry.

This is the treatise on why you don't flush automatic transmissions and why you use Dexron VI in your GM transmisson from GMLS4.com
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Use Dexron VI fluid. It's inexpensive and if it says Dexron VI on the bottle it meets the GM spec for the fluid. Dexron VI is Dexron VI. I've used the WalMart Supertech Dexron VI and the AC Delco stuff when it was cheaper. There's no difference as long as they say Dexron VI... Avoid the snake oil that says "Dexron VI Compatible".

Don't flush the transmission or take it somewhere to let a shop flush it. Chemical transmission flushes do more harm than good.

Change the contents of the pan on the 4T65E or do a case drain on the 6T70. I weld a drain bung into the transmission pans if it doesn't already have one.
If the fluid is especially nasty I'd do three or four 500 mile drain and re-fill cycles before you put the filter in place. This will safely get rid of 85-90% of the old nasty fluid.

There's a GM TSB that outlines changing the pan magnet and adding a second magnet to the 4T65E transmission pans. I posted it on this site. Do it even with the Magnefine in place it's worthwhile.

You can remove the hot fluid line from the transmission cooler and clear the transmission out by pouring fresh fluid in the fill pipe while it's being pumped out the hot fluid cooler line but you run the risk of running the fluid pump dry.

This is the treatise on why you don't flush automatic transmissions and why you use Dexron VI in your GM transmisson from GMLS4.com
thanks. I always use dexron vi so no worries. in fact I almost always stick with the delco branded stuff as well. my plan is to do a cooler line flush/change but I have clear tubing and I'll have my hand on the key so I can immediately kill the engine as the first sign of a bubble or sputter. probably even do it in 2 quart intervals of old out and new in. I already ordered the 2 new magnets. I sent you a private message about the zz performance pan. it's aluminum and they claim the drain plug is magnetic but id' like to put the new donut in also. any ideas on getting it attached to the bottom of the pan since it's aluminum and won't stick? I had several people suggest some jbweld
 

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High temp epoxy.
The aluminum pan looks good but honestly I'd weld an O2 sensor bung into the stock pan and use an 18mm x 1.25mm pitch Allen head plug and 18mm copper crush washer... or take a chance on the Dorman pan with a plug already in place.

Looking at the more recent Amazon reviews it seems Dorman might've stepped up thier game and fixed the leak problems.

BTW here's the GM TSB 08-07-30-040C I posted a while ago.
 
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