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okay , what would be the best rebuild kit to rebuild my lt1 ? i'm thinking of a eagle 383 rotating assembly , but what cam and head combonation would be best . i want a streetable car that breathes fire at the track . i would like to get mid 12's and decent mpg . i also want to keep the stock rearend and get a new one for the track . mine has 3.08 gears now . i plan on sticking with the stock exhaust manifolds and no cats just a set of mufflers . the parts i currently have to do this are , two pcms ,1:6 roller rockers ,53 mm throttle-body flow-master 40 mufflers . and alot of stickers .
 

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Stock Manifolds + 12's = Priceless

The LT1 needs to breathe, the exhaust on our cars is quite limiting. Look into Exhaust from Dan (Clear Image Automtive) For Engine parts look up lloyd Elliot (Elliot Portworks) and also Ellwein Engines those are just a few guys who are gurus with the lt1, also look up pcm for less or pcm performance for your computer tuning

Good luck with the build
 

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pcmperformance is the only one listed there I will spend money with in the future and I have spent money with all but one of those already. I know that flies in the face of popular opinion but as I have said before my results are substantially different than most too so maybe, just maybe there is something to my opinion that helps me get my results.

Far as the original poster's recipe and goal, are you serious? If so consider welding the hood shut instead of modifying the car you are so wildly far off track that I don't know where to start.

This coming from a guy who's OLD setup ran 12s on street tires with slicks and tools in the trunk for a couple hundred pounds extra weight to fight. I don't remember what mileage was but the new setup with more power, more stall, more gear still gets high teens out of tanks I RACE one. Point being I can tell you how to get to your goal, but to do it you first have to throw your current plan in the garbage can and start over.
 

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I would not do an Eagle 383 by the time your machinist finds the shitty machining and corrects it you could have bought actually good parts like Compstar or at least use Scat if wanting cheap as possible.

Unless you want to do a turbo do headers.

No idea why you want to buy another axle something like 3.42s is BETTER for a pure street car than the 3.08s and most folks are pretty happy with 3.73s on a street car that sees some track time, with lockup and overdrive they are fine on the highway.

Do you have plans for tranny upgrades and a good stall converter?
 

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Let's cut the BS.......WHAT IS YOUR BUDGET?
 

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Stock Manifolds + 12's = Priceless

Good luck with the build
Far as the original poster's recipe and goal, are you serious? If so consider welding the hood shut instead of modifying the car you are so wildly far off track that I don't know where to start.
You are no where near having a high enough budget to be able to hit mids 12s. If you can hit those times with only 3500 I would like to know how you did it. I could only wish that it was possible to make that happen... :hope:
 

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Easy, nitrous. He didn't say anything about doing it more than once!
 

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You are no where near having a high enough budget to be able to hit mids 12s. If you can hit those times with only 3500 I would like to know how you did it. I could only wish that it was possible to make that happen... :hope:
My 96 Caprice 9C1 was a very high 12's car, and I only had about $3,500 into the entire car. :D $1,000 of that was in the axle alone. It helps that I bought a car that had a cam, headers, catback, valve springs, roller rockers, tune, CAI, bigger fuel pump, etc already done. It also helps that the rebuilt tranny came from a parts car I paid $500 for, and was way past free when I got done with it. I only paid $1,000 for the car, but it had a bad trans, and would not start. Never got it to the track, before I parted it out, due to needing the money to buy a much nicer Roadmaster. Only thing it lacked to run the number, was a set of rear lower control arms, which I had. Thing struggled for traction even with the 275 drag radials I had for it.

Just to duplicate that setup exactly, it would be quite a bit more expensive, on top of he base price of the car.
 

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With $3500 I would look at gears and posi, with installation expect to spend a solid $1000 maybe more if you need axle shafts or rear brake work with. Will need a pcm retune so say another $200.

Exhaust including headers can drop another $1000 easily, if emissions inspection is a problem then keep the manifolds for now but still do the catback.

A good 9.5" stall converter and shift kit, something like a 2800 stall in an Edge, Yank or Vigilante can easily be mistaken for stock at low speeds but wakes up wonderfully when you get into the pedal, pay to have that installed too and your budget is gone without ever doing anything to the engine.

http://www.impalaforums.com/chevy-impala-6th-gen-discussion/239880-tim-allen-says-more-power.html#post269706

To be ready for engine work you need to be ready to spend say $600 on the fuel system, a couple grand on a tranny rebuild, have to do headers. Then if I were to build an engine I would probably spend $2000ish on the crank/rods/pistons before any machining(another $1000+) and without the heads/cam/valvetrain/gaskets etc which would be another $3500 pretty easily and that is for ported GM heads not aftermarket..

To do a performance engine build reusing the stock crank you might get away with $7000. I am sure someone can disagree but always better to overestimate costs and have money left than to get caught short.
 

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For Engine parts look up lloyd Elliot (Elliot Portworks)

HA, people still suggest this guy? Even with all the threads and pictures about his shoddy work, and inconsistent ports? Wake up people.
 
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