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Discussion Starter #1
I'm going to install a high-powered radio deck in my '02 Base, and I want to leave 100% of the wiring intact. I am bypassing the 10449235 amplifier. I got a Metra 70-2021, meant for '00/01 cars, and it does not "work" in my car (pinouts are all wrong). It fits the large 24-Way connector (C1), but I need the "12-Way F Micro-Pack 100 Series" (maybe 12-way M Micro-Pack) to fit to the output end (C2) of the harness. I've already fully de-pinned the Metra plug so that I can arrange the inputs as I need to.

I've been Googling my heart out, and I can't seem to find a Scosche or Metra plug that fits. I was hoping that some specific Silverado or Corvette or Saturn harness kit would have that plug. Can you guys help me?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I'm sorry, I realize that this really belongs in an Audio board, so if a mod can help me move it, that'd be great, too.
 

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I got the 2000/2001 connectors from www.mouser.com, but you have to know the ins and outs to do it. The connector numbers are usually in the car service manual. All the pieces are separate. I actually have one of your amps at home (bought accidently). The clue was the part number was in the service manual.

I came up with a possibility: https://www.powerandsignal.com/docs/Catalog/Micro_Pack_Series_Section.pdf#page=12
it took me a LONG time. Mouser shows stock. Looks like Delphi sold out to aptiv and their website is poop.


I had a connector to look at. remember, you have to buy all of the pieces separately.

FWIW: I think I figured out why the 2000/2001 Impala radios die. I won't know for a while. I'm trying to make up a harness to be able to put it on the bench. I think I can install 2 components in the amp and a small PCB in an unpopulated IC socket and fix it. That socket is populated in your amp, so a flex PCB might work. I have a number of amps to look at and fix.

The Hozan P-707 is probably a good cheap crimper,

I'd be interested in the wiring diagram for your amp.

in my case the you only need the 24 pin connector to bypass the amp, but it switches the Front and rear speakers.
 

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I think this How to Bypass the Amp in a 2004 Impala validates my conclusion I got the hard way. Looks like there is a front speaker and a front tweeter. That wiring diagram is messed up. Everything is an output.

It also looks like the AMP may contain a front speaker crossover AND the inputs are speaker level. You have woofers and tweeters for the front speakers with different amplifiers. You might benefit by adding bass blockers to the tweeter,`
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Now we're getting somewhere! 12064799 looks like the body-side plug, not the amp-side plug? I could live with using a PCB mount header (12064798? not in stock at Mauser) instead of a plug, but I think I might just go ahead and use inline taps on the body harness. I was hoping to make this whole mess reversible, but that's probably too lofty for an 18-year-old beater.

I found the HOWTO you linked a few weeks ago. I'm going to assume that the 12w has all of the amplified outputs and the 24w only has the inputs. My car doesn't have tweeters, so I'm not worried about smoking them. I'm just putting coaxial 6.5s in the doors when I get around to it, about the time I install a discrete amp.

Also, I work for a company that makes all kinds of interconnect cable assemblies. I don't need an $80 crimper when I can just walk down the hall to talk to the testing engineers. ;) The Metra bypass plug disassembled very cleanly, so if I could just FIND the 12w F plug, I can put the pins where I want.
 

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At least I fund them. Unfortunately not all plugs/receptacles have free hanging and PCB versions, Believe it or not I saw where the application was amplifiers. There is a Aptiv part number for the dual connector on the amp side. Aptiv's website is Yuk!

Want it any better, I guess you'll have to make a PCB.

What I'm going to do for testing is use two different 3 pin connectors. One for the input and one for the output. Both will contain ground. I plan to use a DC-DC converter to get +-5V. I'll use an unbalanced to balanced converter and attenuate the output. Then use a balanced to unbalanced converter and attenuate that, I'll run the output into 2-channel display.

The input will be separate fixed frequency generators, GND or external via a BNC female. BNC to binding posts and BNC to phono is easy to come by. The BNC's are also easy to disconnect.

Something like this 0.96" OLED Music Spectrum Display Analyzer Audio Level Indicator Rhythm VU Meter | eBay but dual for the output.
 

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I don't know if this will be helpful - you may be two steps ahead of me. But I've attached the drawings I have for the 2004 radio/amp systems.

It appears there are four signal pairs from the head unit to the amp: LF, RF, LR, RR. In turn, the amp outputs 6 pairs for the speakers: LF, LF-tweeter, RF, RF-tweeter, LR, RR.

There is an antenna enable signal from the head unit that is also routed to the amp. That should be useful with an aftermarket amp.

An "amplifier present" signal, from amp to head unit, is shown as not used, and tagged as being for the Monte Carlo. Not sure why the Monte would be different.

Also, here are the RPOs called out in the drawings:

UQ3 SPEAKER SYSTEM, PERFORMANCE ENHANCED AUDIO
U62 SPEAKER SYSTEM, DUAL COAXIAL
UW6 SPEAKER SYSTEM, 6, DUAL F/D TWEET & WOOF, DUAL EXT
U2K DIGITAL AUDIO SYSTEM S-BAND (Sirius-XM)
WX7 WIRING PROVISIONS (police car)

You can check the RPO sticker - on the right shock tower in the trunk, IIRC - in case you need to know which ones apply. I'm thinking, with the amp, you have UQ3, and probably U2K as well.

HTH.
Doug

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Discussion Starter #10
Doug, you're the man. The wiring pinouts are about what I came up with (I still haven't plugged anything in to test it, though). My Impala had the infamous "Wet floor, no sound from radio" problem that I fixed by re-crimping the 3-way orange wire splice in front of the rear passenger seat under the carpet. I had hoped that ORN was the remote turn-on lead, but like you I'm now guessing that WHT is the one for the amp turn-on (called "Retained Accessory Power" everywhere that it's not called "Antenna"). Thanks for the RPO listing; that's really useful information!

Just so that you guys have a HOPE of catching on to what I'm trying to do, here it is:

Phase 0.9: Pre-wire everything. 4-gauge from the battery to the package tray, 6-channel RCAs, verify that I can just jump C1/C2 to make music.
Phase 1: Install modern aftermarket deck with USB iPhone control and 18/60w internal amplifier (RMS/Peak), actually install amp bypass jumper.
Phase 2: Install real amp, replace speakers.

The HOPE is that I can just unplug the C1 side of whatever bypass I make and plug that into the output of my new amp. I'm letting go of the make-it-reversible nonsense; I'm never going to sell this car, so inline taps on the C2 side of the body harness is probably the answer. At this point, I just want to avoid running new speaker wires from the package tray to the front doors.

And if you guys have any tips on where to put this big-honkin' 4ga fuse holder next to the battery, I'm all ears...
 

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I missed the year in my earlier post. Those drawings are for 2004. But I see now you have a 2002. Most of the drawings are the same, judging from the drawing numbers (included in the filenames). But two are different, plus there was no satellite radio drawing for 2002.

I have attached the two drawings for 2002 that are different. After a quick inspection, 2002...UQ3_771082 appears to be the same as 2004...UQ3_899378, despite having a different drawing number.But use the 2002 drawing to be safe :)

In 2004...amp_1225270, the "amplifier_present" signal is shown but not connected. In 2002...amp_771080, the signal is not shown at all.

Sorry about getting the year wrong. If you swap these two drawings into the mix, I think that will give you a good set.

Doug

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Wet floor:
The corrosion behind the passenger seat doesn't exist on the 2000-2001 Impala. The water problem does exist though.

There is a $5.00 part available from your dealer that will fix the water leak on a 2000 Impala anyway, it will take 20 minutes to install if there are no issues with the cowl trim. I had to repaint mine and add new weatherstipping. The water comes in through the cabin air filter. The dealer had it in stock.
 

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Retained accessory power is the power that stays on until the door is opened. It keeps your radio on until you open the door.

Antenna has been a way to operate power antennas. I've also seen it used to power an antenna pre-amp in another vehicle. A good use is an amplifier;s remote turn on lead.

It's my suspicion that the radio puts out speaker level outputs since amp sense isn't there AND people have created a bypass harness.

A $30.00 scope, the DSO150, Bangood will work, could be useful.

They are differential. Inputs and outputs. Differential inputs are also known as balanced. The outputs are bridged.
You can use the + signal relative to ground. Balanced inputs removes interference like a EMI that would be common to both inputs.

Twisting a true differential input removes EMI. Shielding removes RFI.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hey, Doug: see photo. Does any of that [private, highly sensitive] data give you any insight?

Simple: you do you, man, I just want the music to get loud! 🤣
163133
 

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If the outputs from the head unit are speaker level and contain notch filters, you should try taking the input at the output of the OEM amp and compare.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I don’t know why there’d be a notch filter, but I’m curious about your answer. There’s no reason to think that the deck isn’t sending speaker level output to the amp, but it’s immaterial. I really have no interest in comparing the signals of two things that are both going to the recycler.

When my aftermarket deck comes in, I’m going to bench test its line output so that I know where to set the gains on the new amp, but that’s as much effort as I want to put in. I’m comfortable enough with the hum-buzz method that I won’t be using a scope for that, either. If the deck has typical wiring, I’ll also probably bridge the rear channels and run them in series, since my factory speakers are clearly marked 2-ohm.
 

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Hey, Doug: see photo. Does any of that [private, highly sensitive] data give you any insight?
:)

Here are the applicable RPO's I found:
UE0 ON_STAR DELETE
UN0 Radio, AM/FM Stereo, Seek/Scan, CD, Auto Tone, Clock, ETR
UQ3 Speaker System, Performance-Enhanced Audio
U77 Antenna, Rear Window, Radio
V73 ANTENNA, FIXED or VEHICLE STATEMENT USA/CANADA (2 conflicting definitions)

I've never seen the "ON_STAR DELETE" before :)

You might save your old head unit. In one of my 2002 Impalas, I relocated it to the trunk so I could still access features such as oil life, etc.

Doug

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Here Elektrotanya for electronics experts is a link to the 2000-2001 impala amplifier service manual. The block diagram on pdf page 3 shows high pass filters and notch filters for each channel.

A notch filter I would guess be tuned to the cabin resonant frequency.

That's what makes the amps partially unique. Your amp which i have physically is layed out similarly, but has an extra dual channel amp populated and has the 12 pin connector.

I'm looking for a SM for your amp. I get the feeling that the division of Panasonic that made these amps dissolved. Ignore the reference to Pioneer.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
You might save your old head unit. In one of my 2002 Impalas, I relocated it to the trunk so I could still access features such as oil life, etc.
I saw a video with the head unit zip tied to the package tray. Was that you? My ACTUAL goal for this project is to keep from running new wires of any kind for any purpose. I'm >< this close to abandoning all of the "enhanced features" of the factory radio, including chimes, because I don't really want to buy a $40 integration harness to retain them. The only reason I'm still leaning that direction is that I don't want to run a REM wire from my new deck to my new amp, but after I get this firewall plug removed to feed the 4-gauge, I might talk myself into doing exactly that.
 
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