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I lost my extra key to my 2009 chevy impala. I purchased a blank on ebay and had it cut. The key will unlock the door but will not switch on the ignition. It will go into the switch but will not turn. Every thing that I have looked said turn on the ignition after programing.
If you need more info to help me solve this please let me know.
This is what I have tried:
1. Insert an existing programmed working key into the ignition cylinder.
2. Turn ignition to the ON position for 5 seconds, then back to OFF position.
3. Remove the existing key and within 5 seconds insert new key and turn
it to the ON position for 5 seconds.
4. Turn key OFF then back to ON. The key is now programmed.
Start vehicle to test key.
Notice item 3 says turn the ignition on with the new key....that is where I am having a problem. All instructions I have seen has this step.
 

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I lost my extra key to my 2009 chevy impala. I purchased a blank on ebay and had it cut. The key will unlock the door but will not switch on the ignition. It will go into the switch but will not turn.
To be clear, you still have one key which works? From which the new copy was made?

Doug

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Yes I used a working key that came with the car.
I would get a new key cut. I'm thinking you got a bad cut when the last key was made. The door locks use fewer of the teeth on the key, so that's why the key works in the door, but won't turn the ignition. The bad tooth isn't being tested by the door lock.

As for there being a chip in the key, I can't say. But it should turn the ignition cylinder. If the car is expecting a chip and you don't have it, the key should still turn, I think, but the motor won't crank.

I know on the gen7's, there was no chip in the key. But I'm not sure about your gen8.

Doug

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Have the cut checked by whoever cut it. Any good key cutting shop such as ACE Hardware will recheck it for proper cut.

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Other thing is check seller feedback of seller on eBay. May be a no good knock off part. Most key places have a deal you can wave your key in front of and it'll tell you if you have a chip key of not. If it turns out the case they sold you the wrong one and don't want to make it right then report it to eBay.

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A "chipped" RFID key will have a circle with a cross stamped on the shank below the
head.
(note the pic in post 6)

If it doesn't have that stamp/imprint its NOT a "chipped" key !

If the key is NOT turning in the lock then its because it was cut wrong!
 

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Different key issue

Greetings, I'm new here. I don't want to hijack the thread, but I have a copied key that will work in the ignition, but not the door lock. This was copied from a key that works in both. Suggestions?

Oh, Mine's a 2011 LT
 

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Greetings, I'm new here. I don't want to hijack the thread, but I have a copied key that will work in the ignition, but not the door lock. This was copied from a key that works in both. Suggestions?

Oh, Mine's a 2011 LT
Try turning the key over and see if that helps. You probably have one tooth cut a tad off that's causing the problem.

Both the ignition cylinder and the door lock only use one side of the key, so it may work in one orientation and not the other, in both the door and the ignition.

The two locks do not necessarily use the same teeth, either. So the bad tooth may only be affecting one lock and not the other, altho I would expect the ignition to fail before the door lock since the ignition uses more of the teeth than the door lock does.

Also, since it gets used more, the ignition may be more worn than the door lock and hence more tolerant of a bad tooth. My 1997 F150 ignition cylinder is so worn, I can just about start it with a screw driver :)

If none of this helps, try getting another key cut from the original good key, if you still have it.


HTH.

Doug

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You don't need to buy circle plus transponder keys online. These aren't sidewinder keys.
Any real old fashioned hardware store that cuts keys will usually have Circle Plus blanks. I believe some of the Borg big box retailers have em. I bought a spare key at Rands hardware in Plymouth. I had to do a security learn but that's not the end of the world.
If you want GM or the Chevy Bowtie or the Pontiac symbol or the Cadillac symbol or the Buick symbol then buy em online.
 

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Greetings, I'm new here. I don't want to hijack the thread, but I have a copied key that will work in the ignition, but not the door lock. This was copied from a key that works in both. Suggestions?

Oh, Mine's a 2011 LT
One other thought on this, my old brain just remembered, on my 2007, I too have dealt with a key that was difficult in the door but worked fine in the ignition. I blamed the door lock, not the key. In this case, I couldn't even get the key into the hole.

So, I shot some graphite into the lock, and then kept working the key in and out, and finally got it in all the way.

In your case, you might try putting some graphite into the lock, slide the key in an out a few times to help distribute the graphite, then try rotating it left and right, maybe wiggling it some as you go. Also, repeat this with the key flipped over 180°.

In my case, I attributed the lock problem to disuse, due to the fact that the fob does 99.999% of the unlocking. Yours may be the same case.

HTH.

Doug

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^+1 with Doug! Very common for door locks to seize up due to lack of use. Everyone always uses their fob, power lock/unlock buttons or external keypad instead of the 'ol key-in-the-door-hatch-trunk method. Fwiw, I've had locksmiths tell me to shy away from graphite, liquid or powder, to free up locks. They claim it'll eventually gunk them up and make matters worse. Wd-40 is their go-to for cleaning/unbinding locks.
 

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^+1 with Doug! Very common for door locks to seize up due to lack of use. Everyone always uses their fob, power lock/unlock buttons or external keypad instead of the 'ol key-in-the-door-hatch-trunk method. Fwiw, I've had locksmiths tell me to shy away from graphite, liquid or powder, to free up locks. They claim it'll eventually gunk them up and make matters worse. Wd-40 is their go-to for cleaning/unbinding locks.
WD-40 to un-bind and rinse the garbage out.

WURTH HHS to lube em so it doesn't happen again.
Wurth_HHS_K.jpg
 

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Yes I used a working key that came with the car.
That whole shenanigan with the dealership and even locksmiths frustrated me so bad... The first time I had to have a key cut I got lucky, they cut it for me at Home Depot but they're really not supposed to cut customer supplied keys... After that and a couple more back-and-forths I spent a few hundred and bought my own key-cutting machine, now ... In order to cut a key I order my own keys so for reference the key in question is referred to as a "GM circle plus" key (or Chevrolet circle plus). That is the key we're dealing with here, I thought I'd mention it as it may help someone in terms of reference material.

Granted even with your own key-cutting machine you still need at least one original.

Ok, so the way I did that with my 2013 GMC Sierra is I literally held the two black circle+ parts together with the replacement key facing OUT as I inserted the original into the ignition, turned it on once or twice, started it, turned it off, then inserted the copy and voila, it really was that simple there... It was so simple I couldn't believe it, but this was also my 2nd go-round.

The 2007 Impala was another story, I lost the working key and all I had left was the "door only" key... So I had to do the 10+10+10 30-minute routine with that one, I will give you the link but you will want to put your car battery on a charger while this is going down and also make sure to cut off all accessories and your headlights!
You may think your battery is strong enough, I killed mine twice during this process and by the time I had everything recharged it took several days instead of 30 minutes but this is the best video watch the whole thing I followed it exact:


Me happy camper, sure the key cutting machine cost me too, all in all I spent as much as going to have them made but it was out of principle to me.
 

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That whole shenanigan with the dealership and even locksmiths frustrated me so bad... The first time I had to have a key cut I got lucky, they cut it for me at Home Depot but they're really not supposed to cut customer supplied keys... After that and a couple more back-and-forths I spent a few hundred and bought my own key-cutting machine, now ... In order to cut a key I order my own keys so for reference the key in question is referred to as a "GM circle plus" key (or Chevrolet circle plus). That is the key we're dealing with here, I thought I'd mention it as it may help someone in terms of reference material.

Granted even with your own key-cutting machine you still need at least one original.

Ok, so the way I did that with my 2013 GMC Sierra is I literally held the two black circle+ parts together with the replacement key facing OUT as I inserted the original into the ignition, turned it on once or twice, started it, turned it off, then inserted the copy and voila, it really was that simple there... It was so simple I couldn't believe it, but this was also my 2nd go-round.

The 2007 Impala was another story, I lost the working key and all I had left was the "door only" key... So I had to do the 10+10+10 30-minute routine with that one, I will give you the link but you will want to put your car battery on a charger while this is going down and also make sure to cut off all accessories and your headlights!
You may think your battery is strong enough, I killed mine twice during this process and by the time I had everything recharged it took several days instead of 30 minutes but this is the best video watch the whole thing I followed it exact:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PVrJWz-XZ1Y

Me happy camper, sure the key cutting machine cost me too, all in all I spent as much as going to have them made but it was out of principle to me.
The only way you should have to do the 30 minute security wait is if you either replace the tumbler in the vehicle hence a new key as well as the tumbler has the security feature built into them on some GM vehicles. Eric O. from YouTube's South Main Auto Channel did that on either a Chevy Colorado or a GMC Canyon but I can't recall which one it was.

IF you have the chipped key yes you'll have to do that security gig. I have a 06 Impala and I've went and had keys cut at ACE Hardware and they have worked great. Same goes for my 04 Chevy Tahoe, 04 Hyundai Santa Fe GLS and my old 98 Toyota Camry I sold to the neighbor recently.

Normally any good place that cuts keys regularly for cars will have a deal you can wave your key into or thru and it'll let you know if you have a chipped key and also if you have a resistor one.

Nowadays even working on cars if doing work in the vehicles security, reprogramming that involves some security they're making guys get a LSID I believe it's called. I haven't needed it yet but I'm sure one day when I'm programming or updating one I'll have to face it so I should get all the security stuff, paperwork, etc done thar allows you to program the digital keys. There's a process and bunch of paperwork and insurance stuff that has to be submitted. I just hope the insurance stuff isn't to expensive as if it is we'll be up the creek without the paddle for awhile.

I'd line to get more into specializing in diagnostics and reprogramming, wheel bearing, ball joints, etc on the vehicle as I have the portable kits for removing and installing the stuff without having to pull the hub if not needed. It'll save time. Suspension and brakes is a big thing I'm into but being mobile we can't do alignments and other stuff you can do in a shop. Maybe I should put a alignment rack in my house garage and do alignments when slow and a couple days a week and schedule other work around it and be less mobile but done properly money can be made mobile. Main thing you have to remember is to charge accordingly.

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IF you have the chipped key yes you'll have to do that security gig.
Right...

I lost my extra key to my 2009 chevy impala. I purchased a blank on ebay and had it cut.
The key will unlock the door but will not switch on the ignition.
It will go into the switch but will not turn.
I missed the part about the key not turning...
Mine did turn, it just wouldn't start the car.

I am thinking chances are the key wasn't cut proper.
It should turn in the ignition.
A little fiddling with it, back and forth, in and out, gently probing might get it to turn in some order.
Don't force a key, they're made out of brass and you don't want to break it.

That being said I'm not clear on what that lecture was about...
 
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