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Discussion Starter #741 (Edited)
Finally installed my Pioneer under-the-seat powered subwoofer (TS-WH500A - https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Subwoofers/Powered+Subwoofer/TS-WH500A). Super easy install (about an hour, maybe a little more). I never realized that I was missing so much deep bass!!! My Pioneer D-Series speakers easily produce the most bass of any 6.75" / 6"x9" speakers that I've ever owned, but even with those, I was still missing quite a bit of deep bass!

So I now have a 45Wx4 RMS amp for my door/rear-deck speakers and a 50W RMS (150W max) sub - all without runing a single wire to my battery. :) The 45Wx4 RMS Alpine class D amp runs off of my head-unit power wire (just spliced it to the head-unit power wire) and the powered subwoofer just connects to my heated seats fuse via a fuse tap (I don't even have heated seats, so it was the perfect fuse to use - was kind of surprised it was even there!). The subwoofer itself is under the passenger seat (doesn't fit under the drivers seat) - the sub "gain" and "x-over" dials are on a wired remote control that I have going to my center console (plus the Rosen has a sub level control).

Pioneer claims the sub (which uses some new-fangled HVT technology - it's actually pretty interesting) in this small under-the-seat sub has a surface area equal to an 8" conventional sub. This is NOT the sub to use if you want your trunk and license plate to rattle or your glass to vibrate! This is a rather "calm" subwoofer that simply produces nice, clean, deep bass for "rich" sounding music. However, they claim that 50W RMS is equal to about 150W RMS in regular sub due to the HVT design and how efficient it is - so the 50W RMS rating is deceiving.

I've only tested it for about 5 minutes, but it *definitely* enhances the sound quality pretty significantly.

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Thanks. The exhaust tips that I just put on there are 3.25" (outlet size) - and 8.5" long. I actually bought them at Walmart a year or two ago and just put them on now. Personally, I feel that they are little *too* big (they are also extremely heavy due to the way they are designed) - and I know that at least some people had issues with these specific tips loosening over time (definitely don't want one of these heavy things falling off while driving!!). To me, they almost seem like they are for a truck or something. :)

Originally, I had some that were 2.75" outlet size (also from Walmart) and I felt they were a little too small. I think 3" outlet size will be just right.

I think I'm going to get these 3" tips next - I like the way they are secured with that band (I *think* these are exactly the same as the GM accessory "bolt on" tips, just *way* cheaper) - these are only 6" long:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/271949460950

The original 2.75" tips I had from Walmart lasted a few years (and still aren't it that bad of shape) - and they were extremely cheap - like $10. I think these larger ones were only $12 or $15. And they are all the same stainless steel that the more expensive versions are.

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I feel like the 3.25" tips fill up the cutout area for the exhaust nicely, but then again I do like big tips:). Looking at the pics of exhaust tips, I think that I have to get some; GM did a poor job with leaving the exhaust without even a simple exhaust tip.
 

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Here you go! This is what your Dynomax tips will look like. I really like the 3" width and I think it just makes the car look SO MUCH BETTER. I never understood why Chevy never put pretty tips on any of the Impalas. You'd figure the SS and LTZ models might at least.
Looks nice!

The Impala SS came with factory exhaust tips; I wish GM extended the tips to the other Impalas also
 

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You know, after I posted that link, I double-checked our exhaust pipe size and I think it's 2.25" - so I bet you're right that the 2.5" inlet size tip is too big. Damn! I really liked those tips - but I'd prefer not having to get them welded on - just makes it easier to change tips, etc... I'll have to see if I can find some that are for 2.25" pipes with that same mounting style. I would love to see some pictures of them on your car though! May just convince me to just get them welded on. :)

I installed my new billet grille inserts and the stainless steel non-foglight trim yesterday - I like it! I think the billet grilles just have a nice "clean" look - especially when *all* of the grilles match (top, bottom and non-foglight grilles). I do wish the non-foglight grilles fit a little better - and you *can* see the original "cross-hatch" grilles behind the billet grille inserts from certain angles, but for the most part, they are pretty damn nice. For $65 (for them all), I'm certainly not complaining. :)

I was also considering getting a "blank" version of the top grille - where you have to remove the bowtie completely. Although, I think I kind of like the bowtie since it's body color...

What do you guys think? I'll get some better pictures, but this is all I have for now....



I wish they sold *replacement* billet grilles instead of these inserts - would you actually replace the entire grille. I realize that it would be significantly more expensive, but I would just prefer not being able to see the original grilles through the billet grilles (again, only at certain angles and distances, but still).

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Grille looks good! Personally, I would keep the Chevy bowtie there; I feel like something would feel missing without the bowtie.
 

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Discussion Starter #746
I'm assuming that there was supposed to be a picture of your car attached to the above post? I'd love to see it!

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Discussion Starter #747
Looking at the pics of exhaust tips, I think that I have to get some; GM did a poor job with leaving the exhaust without even a simple exhaust tip.
Yes, *definitely* get yourself a set of stainless-steel exhaust tips. it's one of the simplest, most inexpensive and easy-to-install mods that really makes a big difference. Like I said, in my opinion, the "naked" exhaust pipes look really bad on these cars. Besides looking bad, they also don't fill the exhaust cutouts on the bumper at *all*.

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Yes, *definitely* get yourself a set of stainless-steel exhaust tips. it's one of the simplest, most inexpensive and easy-to-install mods that really makes a big difference. Like I said, in my opinion, the "naked" exhaust pipes look really bad on these cars. Besides looking bad, they also don't fill the exhaust cutouts on the bumper at *all*.

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Yep its definitely on my list of future mods. I would like to get the stainless steel Magnaflow cat back exhaust which comes with tips later on.
 

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Actually, that was the whole point of the post - I bought an entire set of billet grille "inserts" - the set includes grille inserts for the main grilles as well as the non-foglight holes. :) The stock grilles of the older 8th gens were actually pretty different - they weren't really "billet" style grilles - these inserts have many more "bars", much more close together.

For example, here is what the stock grilles look like:




They are almost more of a "grid" than billet-style grilles.

I put a whole set of inserts on so that the main grilles and the non-foglight grilles matched (before, the main grilles were that honeycomb style and the non-foglight holes were the billet style - now they all match. I just think the billet grilles have a clean look to them.

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Now that I go back and look at the pics I can definitely tell the grill is different, I like it a lot!

Also, I never really thought about the upper and lower grills matching the fog light grill area would make a big difference but it does

I really like those fog light grills I may have to look into those!
 

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Discussion Starter #750
Yeah, it's not that I didn't like the "honeycomb" grilles (they actually look pretty good) - but I do think the billet grilles have a "cleaner" look overall. It wasn't really a huge deal that the main grilles didn't match the non-foglight grilles, but since I always liked billet grilles (I've been considering them for a long time now), I figured that I might as well make all of the grilles match as well.

Like I said, for $65 for all of the grille inserts, it was hard to pass up. I did pull my front bumper cover off to install them, which really isn't all that hard to do (total of 6 screws and about a dozen "push rivets") - I know that some of the grilles on some of 8th gens pull out real easily, but the grilles on my 2012 do NOT! So it's just easier to pull the whole bumper cover off... Would rather not break the grilles (or the slots in the bumper cover!) trying to get them out. Since these are just grille "inserts", you still need the stock grilles behind them.

On a different note, I just scored a *brand new* (still in the box) AC-Delco 170amp alternator for $60 shipped! :) I've been wanting to see if replacing the alternator fixed the flickering interior lights for a while now (only while car is running at idle) - and I figured that I might as well upgrade the amp to the 170amp version at the same time (with the amps and other electronics I've added, I figured that it can only help) - so when I saw a brand new one for $60 shipped on Ebay, I snatched it up (they normally run $200+)!

Loving that under-the-seat sub as well!! What a difference that thing makes!

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On a different note, I just scored a *brand new* (still in the box) AC-Delco 170amp alternator for $60 shipped! :) I've been wanting to see if replacing the alternator fixed the flickering interior lights for a while now (only while car is running at idle) - and I figured that I might as well upgrade the amp to the 170amp version at the same time (with the amps and other electronics I've added, I figured that it can only help) - so when I saw a brand new one for $60 shipped on Ebay, I snatched it up (they normally run $200+)!

Loving that under-the-seat sub as well!! What a difference that thing makes!

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Great find on the alternator! I paid $150 to have one built to 165 amp. It’s the type that has the clutch in it so under hard shifts it doesn’t slam the alternator as well. My old one was dimming whenever the bass bumped, and the bearings sounded like a dying chicken :) For $60 you did good :)
 

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Discussion Starter #752
Yeah, I was actually going to buy the same alternator used off of Ebay originally - there is one from a 2016 Impala that had 6k miles on it - and they only wanted $80 for the alternator, so I was going to snag that one up until I stumbled upon the brand new one (NOT rebuilt!) for $60 shipped. :)

If anyone is looking for a 170amp alternator (stock on the 2012-2013 and 2014+ Limiteds is 150amp), here is the link to the $80 one (currently marked down from $107)...
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/282422642906

Still a very good deal for $80 with only 6k miles on it! Just FYI, the part number for the 170amp alternator is 23106528...

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I'm glad to see that after all my years of trying, @jtrosky is finally a believer in subwoofers!
 

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Discussion Starter #754
Yeah, what can I say - I was wrong about the sub. I honestly didn't realize just how much I was missing at the bottom end. :)

Only thing that sucks is that the GM1010 has no cross-over setting for the subwoofer - just a sub "level" setting. I really wanted to take some of the deeper bass away from the regular speakers and let the sub handle it, but it seems there is no way to do that with the GM1010 - which is kind of strange. It seems that the 5.1 setup on the GM1010 is geared more towards the stock Bose setup than for aftermarket amps and subs.

But even with that limitation, there is still a dramatic improvement with the sub, so I'm still happy. :)

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Look for a hi-pass filter if available. There may even be a hi-pass setting on the little Alpine amp. I know on my Kenwood headunit, I can set the exact frequencies and drop-offs for each pair of speakers, as well as do time adjustment so that all the waves from each speaker hit your ear drums at the exact same time. That's a little more adjustment than I need, but it's cool that you can really get down to that level of detail. As another interesting side note, you can also adjust the lines on the back-up camera screen so that they sit "flat" along the ground (a problem I've noticed on a lot of aftermarket back-up cameras are the lines look like they're pointing up into the air).
 

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Discussion Starter #756 (Edited)
Duh... I completely forgot about the high-pass filter on the Alpine amp!! :) Thank you very much for mentioning that!! I can set the high-pass filter for front channels and/or rear channels on the Alpine amp... I can't believe that I didn't check that!!

Also, I do get a "thump" from the sub when my head-unit turns off, just like I did when I had the Alpine amp connected via the line-out connections from the Rosen. It's now obvious that the Rosen is not dropping the voltage on the remote turn-on wire until the head-unit itself powers off, so I get the "thump" when the head-unit powers off. But, at least the thump from the sub is not nearly as bad as the loud thump that I was getting from the door/rear-deck speakers, so I'm OK with it. Since the Pioneer sub has a power light (unlike the Alpine amp), at least I know that the sub amp *is* actually turning off. :) I'm guessing that the Alpine amp was turning off as well, but the thump was way too loud with the Alpine amp/regular speakers (due to the much larger frequency response of those channels)... I'm not very impressed with the line-out setup on the GM1010 - but then again, Rosen did tell me that it was mainly for the stock Bose setup, so I guess I can't complain (technically, the 5.1 line-out harness isn't even for the GM1010 - it's advertised as being for some earlier models only). But it obviously does still work with the GM1010.

The backup camera I use is completely adjustable up/down, which also adjusts the guide lines, so that's how I got those to be "level". I must say, I've become so used to the the backup camera on the Impala that I really miss is when driving the wifes LaCrosse.

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Hey, no problem :eek:k3: I notice there tends to be a lot of redundancy when it comes to aftermarket audio systems. I considered setting all of my crossovers on my amps, but the dials make it very difficult to determine exactly where the frequencies lay (10hz-10khz with no markings in between) so I found it much better to set all of my crossovers through the headunit where I can be very precise about which frequencies play on which speakers, and how the dropoff acts. But of course if you don't have that option on the headunit it is almost always available on an aftermarket amplifier.

My backup camera is pointed pretty far to the ground in order for the bottom of the image to just catch the back line of a parking space when my bumper is right over it. By using the adjustable lines setup, I can have it so the red is a warning for things that are close and at bumper level.

I know what you meaning about getting used to the backup cam too. When I bought my Escalade, I noticed that when I backed in, I would stop a good 2 feet away from a car, when I thought I was like 4 inches from it, because I couldn't judge how close I was. To the point that I fabricated a custom backup cam screen in the overhead console (right above the rear view mirror) so that I could install the backup cam.
 

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Discussion Starter #758
@RYD - I think I was editing my post while you replied. Any comment on the sub thump? The part that I added to the post above:

"Also, I do get a "thump" from the sub when my head-unit turns off, just like I did when I had the Alpine amp connected via the line-out connections from the Rosen. It's now obvious that the Rosen is not dropping the voltage on the remote turn-on wire until the head-unit itself powers off, so I get the "thump" when the head-unit powers off. But, at least the thump from the sub is not nearly as bad as the loud thump that I was getting from the door/rear-deck speakers, so I'm OK with it. Since the Pioneer sub has a power light (unlike the Alpine amp), at least I know that the sub amp *is* actually turning off. :) I'm guessing that the Alpine amp was turning off as well, but the thump was way too loud with the Alpine amp/regular speakers (due to the much larger frequency response of those channels)... I'm not very impressed with the line-out setup on the GM1010 - but then again, Rosen did tell me that it was mainly for the stock Bose setup, so I guess I can't complain (technically, the 5.1 line-out harness isn't even for the GM1010 - it's advertised as being for some earlier models only). But it obviously does still work with the GM1010."​

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Discussion Starter #759
Great find on the alternator! I paid $150 to have one built to 165 amp. It’s the type that has the clutch in it so under hard shifts it doesn’t slam the alternator as well. My old one was dimming whenever the bass bumped, and the bearings sounded like a dying chicken :) For $60 you did good :)
Damn - out of curiosity, I checked the price for the 170amp AC-Delco alternator at AutoZone. For a *remanufactured* AC-Delco 170 amp alternator, they want $462.99 (plus a $30 core charge)!!! I know where I'm *not* ever buying any of my auto parts from in the future!! Places like Rock Auto want $145.79 (plus a $61 core charge) for the *exact same* remanufactured part! Granted, there would be a shipping charge with Rock Auto, but still... That is just crazy.

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Damn - out of curiosity, I checked the price for the 170amp AC-Delco alternator at AutoZone. For a *remanufactured* AC-Delco 170 amp alternator, they want $462.99 (plus a $30 core charge)!!! I know where I'm *not* ever buying any of my auto parts from in the future!! Places like Rock Auto want $145.79 (plus a $61 core charge) for the *exact same* remanufactured part! Granted, there would be a shipping charge with Rock Auto, but still... That is just crazy.

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they're all a rip off, you just have to shop around and see who has the best prices/parts for what you're doing.every once in a while i find something at advance/auto zone that rock auto can't touch....not often, but once in a while.
 
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