If you are trying to test it by dragging the rear end, that's no it's purpose. It's purpose is the stop the car from moving when PARKED.
That said, it should be engaging right away and they can be adjusted by removing the rear rotors and turning out the end caps of the parking brake piston.
It does nothing in park It just hits the gear in the transmission after a few inches Yes I do press the e-brake before putting it in park no grinding noises etc....
Most cars I been in will not even allow the car (FWD) to move with the e brake on in neutral or drive.
We aren't following each other. I was indicating that a park brake may not prevent your car from moving when engaged if you are attempting to move the vehicle in gear as its designed to hold the vehicle when in a parked state as its a park brake and not an emergency brake. (I don't care to get into the differences).
This can take you 15 mins an save you $30 to check instead of getting charged 1/2 hour labor just to check.. now if you needed to replace the parts, it could take you 2 hours + and maybe some bruised/bloody knuckles some, saving you ATLEAST $130.. now I can understand if you don't have a garage and its raining, but even on a cold day it could be easily done when wearing 2 layers of clothes
That's why there is a parking gear or a putting the car in gear in a manual. Most people don't use the ebrake. Same reason it took you this long to figure out it didn't work.
I'd try lubing up any exposed ebrake cable first. Cheapest and easiest starting point.
This is really a quite simple job. Take rear wheels, calipers, and rotors off. Inspect park brake shoes, cables, etc. At max a total park brake kit is like $80 on rockauto.
I found out there is more issues besides the ebrake maybe.
brake pads in the rear are due for replacement as they claim but I am suspicious that they are lying just to make a buck. Since they are not squealing.
They don't always have to squeak.
They could have heat or stress cracks in them or smooth spots.
But I would go to the shop and look at them before you let them replace them or just do it yourself and save a ton of money.
I'll get a 2nd and 3rd opinion on that. If there is a issue I get both the rear and front done and the front passenger wheel hub replaced. (the ABS issue.)
I going to get the parts my self so I do not get burned on the over priced brakes .
1x ACDelco 14D818CH Advantage Front Ceramic Disc Brake Pad Set
1x ACDelco 14D698C Advantage Rear Ceramic Disc Brake Pad Set
2x ACDelco 18A813A Advantage Front Brake Rotor
2x ACDelco 18A811A Advantage Rear Brake Rotor
Subtotal: $153.99 I may look for used wheel hub to save on the cost I want to know if these are the correct parts before I buy them?
No point and getting new brake pads just to have them destroyed by the old rotors. (Very uneven condition) rear rotors are smooth( passanger rear is starting to become un-even)
I realize you prefer the DIY method, Anonymous, so I just wanted to let you know Customer Service is available if you would like us to step in and work with your dealer for you at any point! Please feel free to PM me anytime for further assistance.
Yes sir stuff like hubs and brakes should never be skimped on. Flipping or machining rotors isn't to bad alot of people do it but new ones are dirt cheap.
yeah I going to get all new rotors and all new brakes
lot of places are quoting $500+ to get them done with new parts(not including the wheel hub.)
I going to get the parts my self for $156 not including the ABS wheel hub
instillation is going to be about 120 or so.
I going to try and find a low mileage, used wheel hub somewhere.used oem is about $60
I think the total will be about $350-$400 for all parts and instillation .
nothing wrong with a used one. the one currently on the car probably have 135,000 miles on them .
I'm sure used parts are safe to use except for used brakes
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