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If you are trying to test it by dragging the rear end, that's no it's purpose. It's purpose is the stop the car from moving when PARKED.

That said, it should be engaging right away and they can be adjusted by removing the rear rotors and turning out the end caps of the parking brake piston.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
If you are trying to test it by dragging the rear end, that's no it's purpose. It's purpose is the stop the car from moving when PARKED.

That said, it should be engaging right away and they can be adjusted by removing the rear rotors and turning out the end caps of the parking brake piston.
It does nothing in park It just hits the gear in the transmission after a few inches Yes I do press the e-brake before putting it in park no grinding noises etc....

Most cars I been in will not even allow the car (FWD) to move with the e brake on in neutral or drive.
 

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We aren't following each other. I was indicating that a park brake may not prevent your car from moving when engaged if you are attempting to move the vehicle in gear as its designed to hold the vehicle when in a parked state as its a park brake and not an emergency brake. (I don't care to get into the differences).


Can still be adjusted as I mentioned though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
We aren't following each other. I was indicating that a park brake may not prevent your car from moving when engaged if you are attempting to move the vehicle in gear as its designed to hold the vehicle when in a parked state as its a park brake and not an emergency brake. (I don't care to get into the differences).


Can still be adjusted as I mentioned though.
Yeah I take it to get adjusted more money out the door

only 1 wheel locked up though both should have right?
 

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Yes.

If you have the tools to remove a tire and the 2 15mm calipers bolts, you can check it yourself. Very simple, very quick.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
also what I was doing was a simulation of the failure of the Parking Gear in the video.


It's a good idea since there was a school BUS that had a failed ebrake and rolled away and hit someone. it was just on the news today
 

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also what I was doing was a simulation of the failure of the Parking Gear in the video.


It's a good idea since there was a school BUS that had a failed ebrake and rolled away and hit someone. it was just on the news today
That's why there is a parking gear or a putting the car in gear in a manual. Most people don't use the ebrake. Same reason it took you this long to figure out it didn't work.

I'd try lubing up any exposed ebrake cable first. Cheapest and easiest starting point.

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
That's why there is a parking gear or a putting the car in gear in a manual. Most people don't use the ebrake. Same reason it took you this long to figure out it didn't work.

I'd try lubing up any exposed ebrake cable first. Cheapest and easiest starting point.

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I going to get it checked out to see what is wrong with it. the place does not charge anything to get it checked out
 

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That's why there is a parking gear or a putting the car in gear in a manual. Most people don't use the ebrake. Same reason it took you this long to figure out it didn't work.

I'd try lubing up any exposed ebrake cable first. Cheapest and easiest starting point.

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Agreed. Very few people use the parking brake therefor cables get rusted up and things start to stick. Which, is why I will never use a parking brake.
 

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This is really a quite simple job. Take rear wheels, calipers, and rotors off. Inspect park brake shoes, cables, etc. At max a total park brake kit is like $80 on rockauto.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I found out there is more issues besides the ebrake maybe.

brake pads in the rear are due for replacement as they claim but I am suspicious that they are lying just to make a buck. Since they are not squealing.
 

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I realize you prefer the DIY method, Anonymous, so I just wanted to let you know Customer Service is available if you would like us to step in and work with your dealer for you at any point! Please feel free to PM me anytime for further assistance.

Best,

Katie
Chevrolet Customer Service
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
They don't always have to squeak.
They could have heat or stress cracks in them or smooth spots.
But I would go to the shop and look at them before you let them replace them or just do it yourself and save a ton of money.

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I'll get a 2nd and 3rd opinion on that. If there is a issue I get both the rear and front done and the front passenger wheel hub replaced. (the ABS issue.)

I going to get the parts my self so I do not get burned on the over priced brakes .


1x ACDelco 14D818CH Advantage Front Ceramic Disc Brake Pad Set
1x ACDelco 14D698C Advantage Rear Ceramic Disc Brake Pad Set
2x ACDelco 18A813A Advantage Front Brake Rotor
2x ACDelco 18A811A Advantage Rear Brake Rotor


Subtotal: $153.99 I may look for used wheel hub to save on the cost I want to know if these are the correct parts before I buy them?


No point and getting new brake pads just to have them destroyed by the old rotors. (Very uneven condition) rear rotors are smooth( passanger rear is starting to become un-even)
 

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Subtotal: $153.99 I may look for used wheel hub to save on the cost I want to know if these are the correct parts before I buy them?


No point and getting new brake pads just to have them destroyed by the old rotors. (Very uneven condition) rear rotors are smooth( passanger rear is starting to become un-even)
Why put that money in and get USED hubs have rotors turned or replace, alway put money in your brakes they keep you from going BOOM Crash and then more money out the door
 
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