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Apex Everything
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That's not bad, at least looking at ZZP's setup, that's only about $500 more. Not an insubstantial amount, obviously, but small enough that I can see it being worth it.
 

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aka IMPALER
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3,174 Posts
Discussion Starter #42
If you're working full time, and can afford coilovers, and you have the SS, and this is just a daily, not a sports car, would you consider bagging it? Obviously it's more expensive, and much more involved, but the adjust-ability and damping are really well suited for daily driving.
It's not really a consideration for me. I'm currently being trained as an engineer to make the world's leading coil springs :beer:

If you're interested feel free to check out our website:
Welcome to Hyperco | High Performance Coil Springs & Suspension Components

I will admit that air ride is better for overall applications, but it's just not for me.
 

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aka IMPALER
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3,174 Posts
Discussion Starter #45 (Edited)
Waiting on my next paycheck to order a few items:

CHEAP DNA motoring lowering springs. these are 100% temporary until i can afford coilovers, but for the price it's worth it to me.


ZZP Short Dogbones


Possibly getting some aluminum coolant elbows as well. I want to take care of all the known 3800 reliability problems while I can. I might wait to do this when I'm doing the top swap over the summer, but we'll see.


I should have the car back from the paint shop either the end of this week or the beginning of next, so I'm hoping to have it down low in TWO WEEKS TIME :eek:k3:

Also, I'm feeling too lazy to search so if anyone who reads this happens knows the headlight bulb type in these cars i'd like to order HID's, as well as good quality interior LED kits (also... gauge bulbs)! Thanks in advance! :icon_pidu:
Going for something like this...


EDIT: I found a list of bulbs. Still would like an interior "kit" if there is one but if not i'll piece it all together
2000-2005 Chevrolet Impala Car Light Bulb Size Guide

Low Beam Headlight Bulb Size: 9006 or 9006 HID Upgrade Kit
High Beam Headlamp Light Bulb Size: 9005 or 9005 HID Upgrade Kit
Parking Light Bulb Size: 3457ALL
Front Turn Signal Light Bulb Size: 3457ALL
Rear Turn Signal Light Bulb Size: 3057
Tail Light Bulb Size: 3057
Stop Light Bulb Size: 3057
High Mount Stop Light Bulb Size: Assembly
Fog/Driving Light Bulb Size: 896
License Plate Light Bulb Size: 194
Back Up Light Bulb Size: 921
Front Side Marker Light Bulb Size: 194
Rear Sidemarker Light Bulb Size: 194
Ash Tray Light Bulb Size: 194
Glove Box Light Bulb Size: 194
Map Light Bulb Size: 194
Dome Light Bulb Size: 578
Step/Courtesy Light Bulb Size: 194
Trunk/Cargo Area Light Bulb Size: 912
 

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Go Get It
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15,048 Posts
Yeah, that bulb guide is accurate. The 194s work for pretty much all the interior lights (mirror lights, rear dome lights, shifter light, courtesy lights, etc) so just get a bunch of those.


As for the cluster lights, they're soldered in. You'll need standard 5mm LEDs and resistors and solder them all in. I followed BBEs guide (Impala/Monte Carlo Cluster Bulb Conversion), and it made it pretty easy.


If you want to do the rest of the switches and lights in the car (window switches, lock switches, SWCs, etc) You'll likely want to order some 3mm LEDs for those, as they can be a tight fit. The driver's side window switch is the toughest because they used one incandescent bulb for all 4 switches, but since LEDs are a LOT more of a focused beam, you need one per switch. I had to get creative in there to get it to work, but now 3 of my LEDs burned out. So make sure you get high quality LEDs so you don't have to go back and do it again like I do.
 

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Apex Everything
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2,939 Posts
I know there's a whole lot that goes into them, and you can't just throw out a full technical brief like it's nothing, but what are some of the advantages of the carbon bellows style spring, and generally how do they work/how are they constructed? This was the first time I had seen them.
 

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aka IMPALER
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3,174 Posts
Discussion Starter #48
Yeah, that bulb guide is accurate. The 194s work for pretty much all the interior lights (mirror lights, rear dome lights, shifter light, courtesy lights, etc) so just get a bunch of those.


As for the cluster lights, they're soldered in. You'll need standard 5mm LEDs and resistors and solder them all in. I followed BBEs guide (Impala/Monte Carlo Cluster Bulb Conversion), and it made it pretty easy.


If you want to do the rest of the switches and lights in the car (window switches, lock switches, SWCs, etc) You'll likely want to order some 3mm LEDs for those, as they can be a tight fit. The driver's side window switch is the toughest because they used one incandescent bulb for all 4 switches, but since LEDs are a LOT more of a focused beam, you need one per switch. I had to get creative in there to get it to work, but now 3 of my LEDs burned out. So make sure you get high quality LEDs so you don't have to go back and do it again like I do.
Thanks man, i'm not wanting to get quite that detailed with this car lol. I've soldered the blue LED's on my 96 gauge cluster so i don't think it'll be hard at all to do that again in the wimpala.


I know there's a whole lot that goes into them, and you can't just throw out a full technical brief like it's nothing, but what are some of the advantages of the carbon bellows style spring, and generally how do they work/how are they constructed? This was the first time I had seen them.
First, watch this video:

Some key advantages over the typical steel coil spring would be weight, spring rate customization, an increase in applications, and the most important one... ELIMINATION OF SIDE LOAD. I can not emphasize how huge that is in racing. Most people view coil springs as a compression spring, but they're actually a torsion bar. It's like a twisted sway bar (to be vague). In the video above you saw how our hydraulic load centering spring perch on the top of the coil spring is working to to maintain the load force in the center of the shock, while the one with the carbon bellows springs doesn't move at all. This is because it is a TRUE "compression spring". Now imagine a strut without our load centering perch and how much it tries to "bend" the shaft of the shock back and forth while going over an infinite amount of bumps and angle changes. The friction of the shaft on the body, seals, ect causes wear, increases heat, changes the linearity and rate of a spring, and so on. We've had people in both IndyCar and some drag racers test them out and they notice the difference as soon as the car begins to move. Hopefully this answers some of your questions. I'm not at liberty to divulge how we construct them, but for a good idea just search for "carbon fiber molding process". The only real disadvantage that I currently see is cost. And that's the only reason you won't be seeing it in the Indycar series this coming year. Not enough of the teams can afford it and unfortunately the limits of competition between a teams parts and materials are so strict everyone needs to be able to afford them in order to run them. But the technology is coming, i guarantee it! :beer:
 

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Apex Everything
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I really like those, and I understand what you're getting at. Are these available to replace a standard 2.5" steel coilover spring?
 

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aka IMPALER
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Discussion Starter #50
I really like those, and I understand what you're getting at. Are these available to replace a standard 2.5" steel coilover spring?
That's the beauty of molding, we can customize them to replace any spring. I'm not sure if we have one made currently that can replace a 2.5" ID spring i'd have to check out different mold sizes.

So above was a standard shock version size, and here's a pic of new Fox MTB shock for performance mountain bikes with our smaller series. Notice the grouping of the carbon bellow springs, that's because we can customize at different points when the rate is linear or progressive. I'm telling ya, totally customize-able.
 

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Apex Everything
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I love composites. I'm just thinking that if you're building a car for autocross or track use, and you're picking you're own springs, and getting very high quality shocks anyway, It doesn't make sense not to do these, unless they're even more expensive than I'm imagining. I'm getting a set of coilovers next month for my car, and the main concern I have with getting a set of these this summer to use with them is the shape of the rear spring, which is definitely non-standard (the pair on the left)

 

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aka IMPALER
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3,174 Posts
Discussion Starter #52
The rear springs are designed that way because they are utilizing the factory top mount spring perch for the rear of your car. The only way around this is to order a set of coilovers that come with their own custom spring perch. I agree the way they're made is extremely odd. My honest opinion is to purchase a set of ridetech coilovers. They are a HUGE customer of ours right now, and I think it's the main reason everyone rants and raves about their products. Hyperco springs are literally the best in the business, for many reasons. And as you can see from the pic below, they manufactured their own top mount spring perch to utilize our springs.


Coilover system using the factory spring perch:


Ridetech coilovers with custom spring perch and Hyperco springs:


I'm not trying to come across as a salesman, but I know our stuff is the best. IF you're wanting to be a serious competitor and are planning on keeping it for a long time, i know i'd invest in their system. I'll be doing the same very soon for my SS
 

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Apex Everything
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Hey! I've actually been looking at their systems, and I didn't realize they used your springs. They most definitely make top notch stuff. They were what I was looking at for the Camaro, but I'm getting too good of a deal on the coilovers I'm picking up to pass them over.
 

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aka IMPALER
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Discussion Starter #55
Got the car back from the paint shop today! Of course, it's raining. But damn it looks so much better. I've got a ways to go still but it's a great start.





There's quite a few little things I want to do first before I'm 100% satisfied with it (front emblem, rear fender emblems, rear truck emblems) but I'll take care of that soon enough
 

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Apex Everything
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Can you hear that? Out there, off in the distance. It's the sound of those wheels crying out for the same awesome PlastiDip job you did on the SS. Seriously though, the car looks good, but I think black or semi-black wheels would be a nice touch.
 

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aka IMPALER
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Discussion Starter #57
Can you hear that? Out there, off in the distance. It's the sound of those wheels crying out for the same awesome PlastiDip job you did on the SS. Seriously though, the car looks good, but I think black or semi-black wheels would be a nice touch.
Lol nobody will know about that now that i've "restored" the plastidip. My buddy told me i need to do these wheels the same way I did my SS wheels. But i'm honestly wondering if the SS wheels will fit under this car with some properly sized adapters... Hmmm.....

Anyways! Did my first "modification". If you've been around the forum for a bit this won't come as a shock to you (seems like it's everyone's first mod). I removed the rear fender emblems and removed the "Impala LS" badge on the trunk. Looks so much cleaner now.




For those who are wondering. YES, there was some paint fade obvious under the emblems. YES, I got it all out. Here's the combo I used.

From left to right you have:
-Lots of microfiber towels,
-3M adhesive remover and rubbing alcohol (both work fine)
-Plastic vinyl spreader (i use this instead of fishing line to remove emblems)
-3M 100 grit clay bar with some detailer for lubricant (soap and water works just fine)
-Meguiers Ultra Finishing Polish (used this with a foam polishing pad on a dual action polisher)
 

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aka IMPALER
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3,174 Posts
Discussion Starter #59
Looks great! The trunk lettering is ugly, I think everyone should remove it. lol
thanks man, and i agree lol it really didn't look right. There's something about symmetry on a car that gets me going :eek:k3:
 

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Go Get It
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Looks good! I personally like the c-pillar emblems in black on these cars. Looks too plain to me without them. I second the dip for the wheels too :eek:k3:
 
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