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OK so I’ve posted before regarding my 2007 Chevy impala when I was having issues with oil leaking and the oil pressure sensor being bad which you all helped me solve! Thank you so much for that. But now I have another issue that I’ve been putting off for a while but I really need it taken care of , I need everyone’s opinions so when I go to take it to the shop or to my cousin to have it fixed I won’t get taken advantage of for outrageous amounts of money or things wrong that aren’t the case. So when I got my car everything was smooth it drove good so I thought but again I didn’t really pay attention until I started getting more noticeable, when I go driving in my car and come to a stoplight or stop sign or to slow down getting off the highway etc. my steering wheel and my brake pedal shake, not just a tiny shake but like really shaky Lol.. I don’t know what that means so I need everyone’s help, is it my rotors? Is it my brakes? I’m a 31-year-old female and I am not inclined when it comes to cars. Anyone’s input and opinions or advice I would greatly appreciate before I take it to a mechanic! I look forward to hearing from everyone. Thank you so much.
 

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From my past experience, it sounds like your brake rotors are badly warped . These cars have fairly small rotors, which get real hot when used severely, like slowing down on long grades. Also when you run the car through standing water puddles and the brakes are hot, they will warp. The front rotors are bad for sure, and the rears could also be. The front brakes do most of the stopping on cars, so they will wear out 2 to 3 times faster than the rears. Your car is 15 years old, and it could still have the original rear rotors and pads. Also, on the front end, the inner tie rods ends could be worn, but you would feel play in the steering wheel even when not braking
 

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You can upgrade the 2006-2011 to larger and heavier rotors that won't warp as easily. For that matter you can do the same to the 2000-2005.
Your minimum wheel size will be 17" after the upgrade.

You can also upgrade to the 12.7" rotor GM used on the 2012 9C1 9C3 Police & "Cadillac DTS brakes".
 

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The problem probably isn't rotors. You didn't mention how many miles or any previous repair history. Front wheel hubs are a known wear item on these cars. Being a 2007 you probably have some wear in your front suspension as well. Without going into details I'd have your brother check for hub wear on each side and replace as necessary. Hub replacement won't require an alignment but you do need to use a new hub nut and a new set of three of the bolts on each side. I'd also consider replacing the front suspension components (inner/outer tie rods and lower control arms). All of these parts can wear and replacing any of them requires an alignment so you might as well get them all out of the way as new ones will likely last as long as the car. If you're going to need an alignment make sure you have rear camber bolts installed. The bolts are cheap and easy to install and an alignment shop will charge you too much to do the work if they're required to get the alignment into spec. Worn suspension components also cost you in tire wear.

Decent quality parts would be ACDelco hubs and nuts/bolts on Amazon for $125ish and the rest of the parts on Rock Auto would be $200ish for the Mevotech Supreme front end parts and $20ish for the camber bolts.

This amount of work at a shop will likely be well over $1k at a shop and probably closer to $1500.
 

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Rotors ARE the most likely....especially if you are over 50/60k. The rotors wear and get thinner and heat effects them and causes them to warp. Possible other issues but rotors are number one candidate. So hopefully just time for front brake job, pads and rotors. If real high mileage other issues could need attention also.
 

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Rotors ARE the most likely....especially if you are over 50/60k. The rotors wear and get thinner and heat effects them and causes them to warp. Possible other issues but rotors are number one candidate. So hopefully just time for front brake job, pads and rotors. If real high mileage other issues could need attention also.
Yup.
It's not like GM didn't have better braking options for the Impala. The bean counters wanted to shave that last $0.005 US off the cost of each unit produced on the lower end models.
No time like the present to upgrade from the higher priced model GM parts bins. 2012 Impala cop rotors and brakes or the Cadillac DTS or Buick Lacrosse Super rotors. The price of the parts are roughly on-par with the lighter duty parts GM used on all of the 2000-2011 Impala models.

BTW You can upgrade your 7th gen Impala with the same parts. The gotcha is you are then limited to no smaller than 17" wheels. Including the spare. 16" wheels will not fit over the larger rotor and caliper.
If you already have the up-market 17" or 18" wheels you still have to eventually consider the spare.
The 2000-2017 W-Body Impala wheel bolt pattern is 5x115mm.
I found two pretty decent options depending on your circumstances.
  1. The 17" 2006-2011 Cadillac DTS or Buick Lacrosse Steel Compact Spare will work. It's a 17"x4" Steel 5x115mm bolt pattern wheel with a T125/70R17 tire. I bought one with a bald tire for $20 from someone parting a wrecked Caddy DTS in Dorchester, MA. A new tire was $65 from Tire Rack. I stripped the old tire off and mounted the new one with a Bead Buster 450 & motorcycle tire spoons in less than 15 minutes so I was into it for under $100 even after I paid the local tire outfit $2 to dispose of the tire rather than paying the town dump $35. I just looked and these tires are up about $20. Inflation baby.
  2. You can use the 18" dual pattern 2013-2019 Cadillac ATS spares. It's an 18"×4" Aluminum Alloy Wheel With Dual 5x115MM & 5x120MM Bolt Patterns (10 wheel lug holes). These are pricey little devils even on the used market.

Unfortunately the 18" Cadillac CTS compact spare had 5x120mm bolt pattern so that's a NO-GO on the 2000-2017 W-body GM cars.
 

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OK so I’ve posted before regarding my 2007 Chevy impala when I was having issues with oil leaking and the oil pressure sensor being bad which you all helped me solve! Thank you so much for that. But now I have another issue that I’ve been putting off for a while but I really need it taken care of , I need everyone’s opinions so when I go to take it to the shop or to my cousin to have it fixed I won’t get taken advantage of for outrageous amounts of money or things wrong that aren’t the case. So when I got my car everything was smooth it drove good so I thought but again I didn’t really pay attention until I started getting more noticeable, when I go driving in my car and come to a stoplight or stop sign or to slow down getting off the highway etc. my steering wheel and my brake pedal shake, not just a tiny shake but like really shaky Lol.. I don’t know what that means so I need everyone’s help, is it my rotors? Is it my brakes? I’m a 31-year-old female and I am not inclined when it comes to cars. Anyone’s input and opinions or advice I would greatly appreciate before I take it to a mechanic! I look forward to hearing from everyone. Thank you so much.
Time for front rotors and pads, possibley all 4. Look for the kits for the front or all 4,
 

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Yup.
It's not like GM didn't have better braking options for the Impala. The bean counters wanted to shave that last $0.005 US off the cost of each unit produced on the lower end models.
No time like the present to upgrade from the higher priced model GM parts bins. 2012 Impala cop rotors and brakes or the Cadillac DTS or Buick Lacrosse Super rotors. The price of the parts are roughly on-par with the lighter duty parts GM used on all of the 2000-2011 Impala models.

BTW You can upgrade your 7th gen Impala with the same parts. The gotcha is you are then limited to 17" wheels. Including the spare. 16" wheels will not fit over the larger rotor and caliper.
If you already have the up-market 17" or 18" wheels you still have to eventually consider the spare.
The 2000-2017 W-Body Impala wheel bolt pattern is 5x115mm.
I found two pretty decent options depending on your circumstances.
  1. The 17" 2006-2011 Cadillac DTS or Buick Lacrosse Steel Compact Spare will work. It's a 17"x4" Steel 5x115mm bolt pattern wheel with a T125/70R17 tire. I bought one with a bald tire for $20 from someone parting a wrecked Caddy DTS in Dorchester, MA. A new tire was $65 from Tire Rack. I stripped the old tire off and mounted the new one with a Bead Buster 450 & motorcycle tire spoons in less than 15 minutes so I was into it for under $100 even after I paid the local tire outfit $2 to dispose of the tire rather than paying the town dump $35. I just looked and these tires are up about $20. Inflation baby.
  2. You can use the 18" dual pattern 2013-2019 Cadillac ATS spares. It's an 18"×4" Aluminum Alloy Wheel With Dual 5x115MM & 5x120MM Bolt Patterns (10 wheel lug holes). These are pricey little devils even on the used market.

Unfortunately the 18" Cadillac CTS compact spare had 5x120mm bolt pattern so that's a NO-GO on the 2000-2017 W-body GM cars.
hatzie,
Can you verify that all of the upgrade options you mentioned above for all 7th and 8th gen models (model years 2000-2011) require 17" wheels?

I'm asking because your wording is somewhat ambiguous. I hope I'm wrong because I wouldn't mind exploring some reasonably priced options but at this point in the life of my 2006 I'm not really interested in upgrading wheels just to do the brakes.

Thanks for the info.
 

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hatzie,
Can you verify that all of the upgrade options you mentioned above for all 7th and 8th gen models (model years 2000-2011) require 17" wheels?

I'm asking because your wording is somewhat ambiguous. I hope I'm wrong because I wouldn't mind exploring some reasonably priced options but at this point in the life of my 2006 I'm not really interested in upgrading wheels just to do the brakes.

Thanks for the info.
Upsizing the rotors to the 2012 Police and Caddy DTS parts mean you'll have to put at least 17" wheels on the car. This includes the spare.

The spares I mentioned will fit the Impala after you upgrade to the larger brakes.
 

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hatzie,
Can you verify that all of the upgrade options you mentioned above for all 7th and 8th gen models (model years 2000-2011) require 17" wheels?

I'm asking because your wording is somewhat ambiguous. I hope I'm wrong because I wouldn't mind exploring some reasonably priced options but at this point in the life of my 2006 I'm not really interested in upgrading wheels just to do the brakes.

Thanks for the info.
The wheels have to fit over the brake components. Cant put a 12 inch pie in a 10 inch hole.
 
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