The entire assembly requires complete dash removal including radio and all wiring and systems surrounding. If it were me I would re-do the offending sensor. Have a look. Test installing screw without the actuator just to see wassup.

Worst case go to hardware store for a slightly larger diameter self-tapping screw same head and length.


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I realize you've done it but in case it helps settle your mind, the following is for my 2010 3.5 but it should be similar or same for yours. Dash design may vary. Locations should be the same. I read here the 2012's have the same little trap door under the steering wheel to give easy access to the driver side temperature actuator, if it's the one.

Select the help file starting with B:

https://www.impalaforums.com/threads/my-2010-impala-3-5-flex-help-files.1892293/#post-3741761

 

The entire assembly requires complete dash removal including radio and all wiring and systems surrounding. If it were me I would re-do the offending sensor. Have a look. Test installing screw without the actuator hust to see wassup.

Worst case go to hardware store for a slightly larger diameter self-tapping screw same head and length.


-----

I realize you've done it but in case it helps settle your mind, the following is for my 2010 3.5 but it should be similar or same for yours. Dash design may vary. Locations should be the same. I read here the 2012's have the same little trap door under the steering wheel to give easy access to the driver side temperature actuator, if it's the one.

Select the help file starting with B:

https://www.impalaforums.com/threads/my-2010-impala-3-5-flex-help-files.1892293/#post-3741761

GrizChev,
I was afraid that would be the case. Due to my overall schedule (personal and work), it would take me almost a "month of Sundays" to complete that level of work. I think I might need to seriously consider your's and sheila's solution.

 

You can follow this instructions:
Instructions:

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the glove box.
3. Locate the recirculation blend door assembly on the right side of the dash. It is located behind the HVAC control panel.
4. Disconnect the electrical connector from the actuator.
5. Use the 7mm socket and ratchet to remove the two screws that secure the actuator to the housing.
6. Use the flathead screwdriver to pry the actuator out of the housing.
7. Inspect the screw hole in the housing for damage. If the hole is stripped, you may need to replace the housing.
8. If the housing is in good condition, install the replacement actuator in the housing and secure it with the two screws.
9. Connect the electrical connector to the actuator.
10. Reinstall the glove box.
11. Connect the negative battery cable.

 

5.5mm/7/32" socket.

 

Rick, same thing happened to me with the drivers side temp actuator. 1 of the 2 mounting screw holes stripped. As GrizChev suggested, I just went with a slightly oversized screw. I just have to remember the screw head is now 8mm/5/16" instead of 5.5mm/7/32", lol. On another car, while replacing the drivers temp actuator, I simply dropped 1 of the mounting screws somewhere in the dash/console never to be found again. After spending too much time trying to locate the missing screw, that hole got an oversized screw also.

 

Sheila,

One idea I had is to try putting something like JB Weld in the screw hole, lightly coat the screw with wax, or something similar, and then apply the screw until the JB Weld has cured. I'm concerned that the JB Weld will ooze out from the hole enough to make the restoration of the threads uneven, so that's why I'm thinking about removing the housing so that I can lay it such that the screws are vertically oriented while the JB Weld cures. Overkill? Perhaps.

 

If the plastic will take a bit longer screw without interference go for that too.

 

@sheila,

When you went with a slightly larger diameter screw, was it this same actuator location, and did you compare the replacement to an existing screw (wondering if replacement was longer)?

Worry is about blind thread holes where a longer fastener could do significant damage or interfere with surrounding objects. In cases like this I often grind the tip down since the female thread already exists (no need for self-tapping). Just wondering.

 

@sheila,

When you went with a slightly larger diameter screw, was it this same actuator location, and did you compare the replacement to an existing screw (wondering if replacement was longer)?

Worry is about blind thread holes where a longer fastener could do significant damage or interfere with surrounding objects. In cases like this I often grind the tip down since the female thread already exists (no need for self-tapping). Just wondering.

Iirc, the replacement screws were probably a bit bigger and longer. Both times were on the dreaded drivers side temp actuator, a stripped hole on one and a dropped screw on the other. I was so frustrated I just went to my junk screw inventory and eyeballed/grabbed something somewhat similar. I briefly considered blue loctite or silicone for the stripped hole and a trip to the local pick-n-pull jy for the dropped screw but those 2 ideas were quickly dismissed as I just wanted the pain and suffering to end, lol. The make-shift repairs were made 2-3 years ago and all is still fine to date.

 

Cool. So that location either is thru-holes or deeper than needed blind holes. Works either way! Thanks. Your pain at that time will help all of us who follow!