Impala Forums banner

61 - 76 of 76 Posts

·
SStuntin on em
Joined
·
4,851 Posts
Should've used a pac line out converter. AOEM-GM1416 to be exact. Then you wouldnt have had to cut any wires. I did a writeup on it, running power and speaker wires, replacing the front door speakers, and removing the factory stereo. It is stickied in the Audio/video section.
You can use an LOC tho, I'm using some random brand and everything is great
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
560 Posts
Ha ha dang Devine that sucks.. But it's pretty straight down here.. Only thing I don't like is not really err car shows around here
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Important notice

In a 2008 Chevy Impala, I have noticed that there are NO wires in the fuse box under the hood or in the passenger door kick panel location that run on ACCESSORY status. They are all HOT wires.

The easiest way to run the remote wire to the factory head unit is to pop off the front cover around the radio/climate controls (the cover houses the passenger air bag indicator light) and remove the 6 screws that hold the radio and climate control units in place. In the wiring harness attached to the radio there is one MAJOR difference between factory and aftermarket.

The aftermarket radios are YELLOW WIRE = 12v+ Constant / RED WIRE = 12v+ Accessory. On the factory radio, it is REVERSED!!! The wiring is YELLOW WIRE = 12v+ Accessory / RED WIRE = 12v+Constant.

It's simple to run the remote wire directly to the YELLOW wire and install it with a 3 way in-line crimp connector. You can pick these up at Wal-Mart or any parts store as well. I just installed an aftermarket system in this car and it was WITH the factory radio. I just thought I would post this so you all know that doing it any other way would be more of a hassle than anything else... AND it still gets done properly. I hope this helps!

I have installed over 100 stock and aftermarket car audio systems and I can speak on this from experience. I hope this helps! Have a good day!
 

·
SStuntin on em
Joined
·
4,851 Posts
^^^^^That is incorrect and much harder than what you have to do.

Edward, the answer is on the bottom of page three from C E Devine. the accessory power fuse is not always hot. its the same one I use for my subs. You do not need to unscrew anything. simply remove the cover to the fuse box on the passenger side floor, then connect your remote wire to the RAP fuse.

I have installed like 20 aftermarket car audio systems and I too can speak from experience. I also have this car with subs and my remote wire is connected to a fuse and I am using my stock radio.

EDIT: You have a good day too my man
 

·
Storm Trooper Ralf
Joined
·
4,334 Posts
^^^^^That is incorrect and much harder than what you have to do.

Edward, the answer is on the bottom of page three from C E Devine. the accesory power fuse is not always hot. its the same one I use for my subs. You do not need to unscrew anything. simply remove the cover to the fuse box on the passenger side floor, then connect your remote wire to the RAP fuse.

I have installed like 20 aftermarket car audio systems and I too can speak from experience. I also have this car with subs and my remote wire is connected to a fuse and I am using my stock radio.
BOOM HEADSHOT :lol:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Can someone post a pic of the correct way to tap the speakers with an LOC and label the wires if its not too much trouble. I had it setup when I bought the car but it has now come disconnected after moving some things around in the trunk I don't know what goes where.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Amplifier Wire hookup

I also have a 2011. LS Fleet. Should I hook my power wire to:
1. the post on the under hood fuse box
2. the positive battery post bypassing the AMP loop
3. the positive battery post running through the AMP loop

I have tried searching this forum and I think the answer is the Post attached to the fuse box.

Details:
4 gauge power wire with fuse ran to distribution splitter in the trunk
2.5F cap in trunk from the splitter
600watt amp from the splitter
Seperate grounds
Single sealed 10" for rock punch

I am trying to prevent headlight dimming and the battery saver message. Nothing is hooked up yet so have not seen either issue. Just want to do it right. Please move to a new area if this is incorrect area.

Thanks
William
 
61 - 76 of 76 Posts
Top