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Bought my 16 LT with 38k late 2017. I have 68k on it now so I drive it a lot. It was a CPO, only repairs done under warranty was some traction sensor on the wheel and washer fluid sensor.
As soon as the warranty ended I had to replace purge valve solenoid. Just last week I replaced a blend door actuator, I didn’t know how annoying that noise really was. And today I was met with this surprise. I mean, they’re the tires that came with the car when it was new- I’m matching that up with the date code. Goodyear LS2s lasted about 70k. Not bad but probably going to get some Tiger Paws. Had them on my Grand Prix before it left me.



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The only other thing was a gas cap replacement fairly recently. The ratchet inside the factory cap was no longer forcing a seal.
Did the gas cap issue cause a check engine light to go off, or did you just notice it was ratcheting too easy? Thinking I have a similar issue, but I have not had an engine light go off.
 

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Did the gas cap issue cause a check engine light to go off, or did you just notice it was ratcheting too easy? Thinking I have a similar issue, but I have not had an engine light go off.
Yes it did. But I had noticed the cap feeling loose and coming off too easily during the 2 - 3 fill-ups prior to the ECM throwing a code. It may take a while for yours to trigger a code, as well.


 

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SOmething I learned about the gas cap is that you should NOT put pressure on the cap while tightening it. If you do that, it doesn't attach properly. You just have to turn it without putting pressure on it and then it attaches fine.
 

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SOmething I learned about the gas cap is that you should NOT put pressure on the cap while tightening it. If you do that, it doesn't attach properly. You just have to turn it without putting pressure on it and then it attaches fine.
Probably good advice. But the cap is not going to seal properly if the teeth inside the ratchet mechanism are worn out. When I finally replaced mine, I could hold the neck in one hand and turn the cap with the other. It made clicky-clicky sounds like it was doing something constructive, but wasn't applying any torque to the neck piece.

Too many ham-fisted renters filling up before turning the car in, I suspect. :)
 

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Mine is outside the 2012-16 range, but based on my 2008 Impala, you may have your's a long time. I bought mine used with 23,000km from a dealership. I'm at 291,000KM (180,800 miles) now and haven't had any major/expensive repairs. Changed the blend door actuator last year; I change the left front headlight bulb every 3 years for some unknown reason; a control arm replaced this year; Still the original spark plug wires and plugs (I dread trying to remove them now); I get a P0172 issue every 2 or 3 years; Krown rustproof every year; My mechanic says there is no damn rust on the thing and I don't see any. Four road trips across the USA but mostly city driving, say 75%.
 

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What is this KM you speak of :)

I actually work in medical science and statistics, so I like the metric system. Just feel obliged to be an obnoxious Yank and give you crap about it.
 

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When you replaced the gas cap, did it come with a new tether? I tried getting my gas gas cap off to replace it with a locking gas cap (with no tether) but couldn't see any way to remove the tether without cutting it.
 

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The tether on my 13 was where you push the plastic side in to get it out of the hole. Not sure what kind of pin you call that.

Kind of like this
 

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When you replaced the gas cap, did it come with a new tether? I tried getting my gas gas cap off to replace it with a locking gas cap (with no tether) but couldn't see any way to remove the tether without cutting it.
Yes, a new tether was supplied with the cap. As I recall, it's the AC Delco # GT 294 cap available on Amazon for about $12.

 

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2012 Impala - One Year of Ownership

White 2012 Impala with the 3.6L LFX. Bought it with 56K on it. Now have 68K.

Had it one week and started getting an intermittent CEL. Codes were P0014 and P0024 (VVT camshaft actuators) - but - absolutely NO drivability issues. Low 30s for hwy mileage. Great acceleration/power. No idle issues.

I had the car's service history (for what that's worth) and it appeared the former owner had used synthetic oil during regular changes. When I checked the oil, it was dark to almost black. So I changed the oil and filter. (5W30 Mobile 1 and a Mobile One filter)

CEL light returned (same code) after 625 miles. Checked oil. Looked fine. Cleared code. Went another 1123 miles and CEL returned - again the same. This happened repeatedly but at intervals that were further and further apart. Again, no drivability issues.

Around 5000 miles, CEL came on with codes P0014 and P0024 (same parts, different banks). Changed the oil - this time using 5W30 Mobile One and a different filter - a smaller filter, AC Delco PF64. Since making that change, I have not had any issues. I last changed oil and filter at 66K. I'm not willing to let the Mobile One go much past 5K... (I know, I know - but oil is cheap.)

Other than these minor issues, great car. Really impressed with the MPG for such a large car!
 

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^ Doug, I think he said he had a Mobil 1 oil filter on it prior the PF64. Maybe different bypass valve psi and anti-drain back valve location. I know my old Ford 3.0 24v dohc Duratec engines didn't like the Mobil 1 oil filters. Every start-up had that oil/filter change pre-prime knock. They didn't care for Fram's "orange can of doom" either, lol.
 

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^ Doug, I think he said he had a Mobil 1 oil filter on it prior the PF64. Maybe different bypass valve psi and anti-drain back valve location. I know my old Ford 3.0 24v dohc Duratec engines didn't like the Mobil 1 oil filters. Every start-up had that oil/filter change pre-prime knock. They didn't care for Fram's "orange can of doom" either, lol.
Thanks, Sheila. I only read Gralea's post 2 times looking for that before I posted :) Third time was the charm.

Bypass pressure was what I was wondering about - could it make a difference in how the variable valve timing works, enough to cause a code? The mention of PF64 reminded me of the spec change GM made on the LFX filters (but I have to dig out my notes for all the details).

Doug

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Oil Filter(s)...

What filter were you using before going to the PF64?


Doug

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Sorry - didn't see this until now - and I realize I misspelled "Mobil" - I live near Mobile, AL, so that's my excuse...

When I bought the car it had a Fram PH10060 (looked like a bulk garage purchased filter). I changed the oil to Mobil 1 5W30 (6 qts.) and used a M1-212A filter. Later, after reading that the 2012 3.6L comes from the factory with an AC Delco PF64, I switched to the PF64. Since I made the switch at 62500 miles, no CEL. No issues at all. Changed oil again at 67000 (oil looked good) and replaced again with M1 5W30 and PF64.

It could be that the oil changes corrected the problem and the filter size (PF64 or PF63E) was irrelevant. I do know there's a TSB out there for P0014, P0024 "with no drivability issues" on the 2012 3.6L LFX. I was ready to replace the camshaft actuator(s) since they're relatively inexpensive and fairly easy to replace. If I get the code again, that's probably what I would do.
 

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My '12/'13's were bought used in 2013 from Chevy dealers and came with the old PF48 installed even though the owners manuals spec'd PF63. Since then, I guess things have moved to the PF63E or the PF64. I are cornfused, lol!
 

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My '12/'13's were bought used in 2013 from Chevy dealers and came with the old PF48 installed even though the owners manuals spec'd PF63. Since then, I guess things have moved to the PF63E or the PF64. I are cornfused, lol!
So is GM when I called and talked to them lol. Finally they said PF63E
 

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I've been getting consistently great results with Bosch 3502 premium filters, as confirmed by the Blackstone analysis that I have performed on the used oil after every drain.

I use Bosch premium filters on all my vehicles. They're well made (in the USA), seal properly, perform great, and don't cost a whole lot more than the "junk" filters do.

Tried a K&N premium oil filter once when my local parts store was out of stock on the Bosch. The thing wouldn't seal right, and I ended up having to replace it right away with a Bosch that I ordered from Amazon Prime.

You can't go wrong with a Bosch 3502, and I have the reports to back up my claim. :)

 

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I've been getting consistently great results with Bosch 3502 premium filters, as confirmed by the Blackstone analysis that I have performed on the used oil after every drain.

I use Bosch premium filters on all my vehicles. They're well made (in the USA), seal properly, perform great, and don't cost a whole lot more than the "junk" filters do.

Tried a K&N premium oil filter once when my local parts store was out of stock on the Bosch. The thing wouldn't seal right, and I ended up having to replace it right away with a Bosch that I ordered from Amazon Prime.

You can't go wrong with a Bosch 3502, and I have the reports to back up my claim. :)
Please post the Blackstone report. Should be several columns of analysis reflected on one sheet.
I'm always interested to see real world data. Nobody can call BS on cold hard numbers either.
 

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Please post the Blackstone report. Should be several columns of analysis reflected on one sheet.
I'm always interested to see real world data. Nobody can call BS on cold hard numbers either.
Here ya go ...



 
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