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I bought mine with 30K in 2013, as it was a former Enterprise rental for about $14K. I had a Stabilty-trac harness replaced right after I bought it, the Fuel pump failed a year ago @ 114K, and the Vapor Canister failed after a tune up, but other wise no other issues.

Currently @ 133K, there is a motor that doesnt work to lift the seat up and down on both the driver and passenger side seats, power driver mirror gets jammed, the annoying rattling exhaust GM refused to fix as it is "normal" to them, is still there can can be heard at just the right RPM on the expressway, random interior plastics rattles, the car has never been as smooth at idle after a tuneup @107K, and the transmission is starting to shift rougher when its cold.

I have kept up with the maintenance on this car and wont hesitate to put it on a 10hr drive, but also dont feel like this car is going to last until 200K+ miles.

How has your Impala been holding up?
Any major problems?
Are you satisfied with the build quality?
Do you feel it will last 10yrs/200K+ miles?
 

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How has your Impala been holding up?
Any major problems?
Are you satisfied with the build quality?
Do you feel it will last 10yrs/200K+ miles?
Ours is a 2012 with a little over 160,000 miles. Bought brand new at a chevy gm dealer. No tunes, all factory. Mostly driven by my wife.

Have had to replace 3 wheel bearing hub assemblies. Replaced one blend door actuator.
Nothing major.
Not dissatisfied. It is what it is, a 4 door sedan with a 300 hp engine in a price range we(working class) could afford. Car still gets very good mpg on the highway and averages somewhere around 26.5 with mixed driving where average speed last I checked was around 45 mph.
I think our car will easily go over 200,000, is 8 years old now. Car drives pretty well like it did the day we drove it home from dealer.
 

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I bought my 13 LT with 170K on it. I have no clue about the maintenance of it before beside the salesman, who knows my parents, told me the guy who owned it kept up on it. No records that I could find, car fax.

The only issue I've had so far is I had to replace one of the evap sensors. I'm hoping it last somewhat beyond 200K. I didn't pay a whole lot for it because of the miles on it.
 

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I have no doubt the car will go to 200k miles, as long as you maintain it. Here is what I have done so far... I bought it almost 3 years ago at 34,000 miles, dealer tech wife owned prior to me....

- synthetic oil changes approximately 5000 mile intervals, sometimes shorter, sometimes longer
- drained and filled trans fluid 3 times with Castrol DeX VI
- replaced front hub bearings
- had front brake rotors turned because of pulsation, cleaned and greased everything while in there, stock factory pads still have a lot of life in them
- new tires and an alignment over a year ago
- installed the Addco rear sway bar and Moog rear end links on it when I bought it because I took them off the Grand Prix I traded in for the Impala
- upgraded the stereo to all aftermarket stuff, Rosen head unit, 10x better than stock

You saw my catch can thread I started... the next big maintenance day will be pulling the intake and cleaning it and the valves, installing a catch can, replacing the spark plugs, and flushing and replacing the coolant. I got a good look at the belt when I replaced the battery this week and it looked good, so I will look again when I do the intake job. I will probably flush the brake fluid and power steering fluid at that time as well. So, my 100K maintenance will turn into a project... What else is new?

I do think the Impala will go the distance. In the next 2 years and couple months of payments I have left, there will be another 50-60,000 miles on the car, easily. I know the suspension will eventually need some attention and I know the rear hub bearings will eventually fail. The factory brakes will eventually wear out and need replacement, so no surprises with any of this. If I can survive a major powertrain item failure, I will be happy.
 

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2013 Impala

I have a 2013 Impala LT. Bought in early 14 with 8000 miles. It was a ex rental unit out of Detroit. Sunroof, cloth guts, alloys. Now has 85k miles. Aside from new tires, new brakes all a round, new battery, Reg. oil changes at around 3k. Only 2 dealer visits for the key insert and exaust cam position act. solenoid valve. (One each side done one at a time! PIA) HVAC system still working correctly, A/C ice cold. Inside of car still quiet and solid. No shakes or rattles. Black Paint still shiny and clean! Still gotta take it to the painless dent guy to fix a crease in the drivers door! Runs well, starts right up in the frigid NY winters, tranny shifts well. Car itself sucks in the snow with these fat all season tires! My old Buick or Cadillac plow thru the snow just fine. Overall a good choice for a 4 door car as they can be bought cheap used.
 

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2013 bought in november 2016 brakes and stereo upgraded as soon as I got the car. I warped the oe breaks avoiding a deer then as soon as I got back up to 65 it happened again.
I changed the trans fluid 3 times with the engine oil to get it back to color. Air filter as well, did not notice any unusual oil pooling in the intake.

Right blend door actuator failed
power steering leak noted at the rack, no action taken I just avoid getting to full lock and have advised the lady to do the same, seems to have slowed/stopped
Tune up, plugs looked suspiciously new OEM. finished the job so I have a mileage on the plugs to go by.

last week the driver blend door started popping and was replaced.

since 98k I have only needed basic maintenance and another set of tires due to my own neglect and running the psi too high.

I have noted the engine knocks/pings some if I do the throttle just right when under a load. feeels like it's pulling timing when it does. I need to get the valves cleaned I am sure.
 

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Our 2014 has been exceptionally reliable. The only issue we had was the fuel evaporator canister. Many less problems than I had in my 2009 Super Sport.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ours is a 2012 with a little over 160,000 miles. Bought brand new at a chevy gm dealer. No tunes, all factory. Mostly driven by my wife.

Have had to replace 3 wheel bearing hub assemblies. Replaced one blend door actuator.
Nothing major.
Not dissatisfied. It is what it is, a 4 door sedan with a 300 hp engine in a price range we(working class) could afford. Car still gets very good mpg on the highway and averages somewhere around 26.5 with mixed driving where average speed last I checked was around 45 mph.
I think our car will easily go over 200,000, is 8 years old now. Car drives pretty well like it did the day we drove it home from dealer.
Ive been through 2 Blend Doors so far. Not fun when the drivers side was Hot and Passenger side was ice cold when it failed in the middle of winter.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have no doubt the car will go to 200k miles, as long as you maintain it. Here is what I have done so far... I bought it almost 3 years ago at 34,000 miles, dealer tech wife owned prior to me....

- synthetic oil changes approximately 5000 mile intervals, sometimes shorter, sometimes longer
- drained and filled trans fluid 3 times with Castrol DeX VI
- replaced front hub bearings
- had front brake rotors turned because of pulsation, cleaned and greased everything while in there, stock factory pads still have a lot of life in them
- new tires and an alignment over a year ago
- installed the Addco rear sway bar and Moog rear end links on it when I bought it because I took them off the Grand Prix I traded in for the Impala
- upgraded the stereo to all aftermarket stuff, Rosen head unit, 10x better than stock

You saw my catch can thread I started... the next big maintenance day will be pulling the intake and cleaning it and the valves, installing a catch can, replacing the spark plugs, and flushing and replacing the coolant. I got a good look at the belt when I replaced the battery this week and it looked good, so I will look again when I do the intake job. I will probably flush the brake fluid and power steering fluid at that time as well. So, my 100K maintenance will turn into a project... What else is new?

I do think the Impala will go the distance. In the next 2 years and couple months of payments I have left, there will be another 50-60,000 miles on the car, easily. I know the suspension will eventually need some attention and I know the rear hub bearings will eventually fail. The factory brakes will eventually wear out and need replacement, so no surprises with any of this. If I can survive a major powertrain item failure, I will be happy.
I switched to synthetic at 100K and change it every 5500miles.

Really wish I didnt pay over $200 for a Dealer Transmission Fluid Flush at 90K and will probably just di a drain and fill every 40K from now on.

Change the Brakes and Rotors my self last yr, and God himself tighten those rotor screws and it took all my strength to loosen them, but running good on Ceramic pads, so far.


After changing the PCV Valve, and running a can of CRC Intake Cleaner and adding some Gumout w/PA afterward, it did smooth out a bit more, but might do another Intake spraying since I waited 130K do so. One think I learned on the intake cleaning, is DO NOT floor it after you cleaned it, as you will hear all sorts of clattering in the engine right after and a check engine light due to misfires. I cleared it and drove it for 10 miles on the expressway and it was fine afterward.
 

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Mine's been acceptable so far. Got it @ 67k from an older couple and it has been well maintained. Now at 108k. My MPG has always been around 24.

Replaced evap sensor.
Replaced rear brake pads.
Replaced alternator. It went bad, replaced with 170amp version.
Replaced air filter.
Replaced things like bulbs, etc.

I've always used full synthetic, per the manual. Replaced oil filter every change, and change frequency has been right before 10k, per the manual and have not had any issues.
About every other oil chance, I use Lucas Synthetic oil stabilizer in place of the 6th quart.

Replaced stock head unity with Rosen GM-1010. Interface and features are quirky, but the BBE sound is phenomenal. Way better than factory.
Replaced Grill Emblem, as the original fell off. Replaced with one that lights up.

Upcoming maint would be the front pads, and if I can, I'll probably get all discs turned as well.
 

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Bought our 2016 used 11 months ago. Was a rental car and it was certified. Best vehicle we could afford that still came with a warranty ($12,000 plus tax title)

Just needed two front wheel hubs at 57,000 miles last month. Covered by bumper to bumper certified.

Paint scraped away on passenger door by the hinge as the fender was a little crooked. Dealer fixed the scrape, but I need to grind and touchup the paint damage.

Not thrilled with the dodgy and slow feel of the transmission at times. From reading on here, it is just the way the GM automatic works. I hope that is right, but the powertrain certified warranty is until May, 2022.

Great fuel economy for a 300hp engine. Although it does sometimes feel like the engine is being choked out and leaving some power behind. Probably environmental crap bogging down the engine.

Thinking of paying for a complete check over before the 12month certified warranty expires. Not worried about the powertrain as much since that warranty lasts longer, but suspension, wheels and other repairs can really add up when no longer under warranty.
 

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Interesting how some have had issues with the brakes as well. Over 160,000 and still on the original factory rotors and will possibly get one more brake job out of them. There have been a few VERY hard stops in this car while I was driving it. Put duralast cmax pads on the fronts somewhere after 50,000 miles but well before 100,000, rotors were ok, just cleaned them up. Did backs a little after 100,000 and went with the duralast cmax on them as well. Back rotors had minor fine hairline grooves, had them turned. Car stops great, and no dust issues. I probably need to recheck the fronts soon.

Oil changes on our 2012 were done mostly at the dealer for probably the first 70,000 or so miles. They used the wrong oil filter(pf48) for several of those. Car has always had the correct oil(5w-30) either dealer dexos or when I have changed the oil have used castrol magnatec dexos. Oil changed somewhere between every 5000 to 6000 miles or roughly 35% give or take on the olm.

Did end up with a new issue about a day after posting to this thread, or at least that was when my wife told me about it anyway. Have a dead spot in the accelerator/throttle when it is first pressed to accelerate. Seems like a hesitation, but once you get past that point the engine speed accelerates just fine. Ordered a new pedal/accelerator sensor from rock auto, supposed to be in Thursday, hopefully that will resolve that issue.

On the 4th set of tires, just put on a set of pirelli p4 four season plus less than a month ago.
 

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^ sonjaab, are the exhaust cam position act. solenoid valves common failure parts on the LFX engine?
No idea. They didnt effect the way the car ran. It just set a SES light both times. They are just some external parts attached to the engine under the beauty cover. It was just a PIA failing one at a time so it was 2 visits to the local crummy Chevy dealer in Oswego NY with no loaners or courtesy transportation!

The SAME crummy Chevy dealer in Oswego NY who couldnt diagnose a SES light and emission issue so the car wouldn't pass the NY plug in emission test for yearly inspection while under the 3/36 warranty.
I suggested a Tech 2 plug in and got the blowoff and was told nothing they could do!
A complaint to the GM customer 800 service line sent me to another Chevy dealer and YUP a simple zap from a Tech 2 unit hookup cured the problem!
 

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Let's see. I have a 2012 Impala LT with 176,000 miles on it. I've dealt with the following:

- Thermostat wouldn't close
- Replaced back hub assemblies
- P0300/1 misfirings
- Driver's seat actuator is dead
- Blend door motor in the glove compartment is dead (I can't get my hand back there to replace it)
- Front tie-rod was messed up (Boy, do tires lose tread quickly when that thing is messed up)
- Transmission drain and fill (preventative maintenance)
- Replaced my EVAP purge valves twice
- Replaced spark plugs (much easier to do on an Impala than on a Bonneville)

I'm looking to replace my back PCV valve, but I can't seem to find it. All in all, it's been okay. And there haven't been too many horrifying problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Let's see. I have a 2012 Impala LT with 176,000 miles on it. I've dealt with the following:

- Thermostat wouldn't close
- Replaced back hub assemblies
- P0300/1 misfirings
- Driver's seat actuator is dead
- Blend door motor in the glove compartment is dead (I can't get my hand back there to replace it)
- Front tie-rod was messed up (Boy, do tires lose tread quickly when that thing is messed up)
- Transmission drain and fill (preventative maintenance)
- Replaced my EVAP purge valves twice
- Replaced spark plugs (much easier to do on an Impala than on a Bonneville)

I'm looking to replace my back PCV valve, but I can't seem to find it. All in all, it's been okay. And there haven't been too many horrifying problems.
What sucks with those seat motors is, it requires you to buy the entire frame assembly for $300 if you want to replace the motors

PCV Valve is on the other side of the air intake tube behind the throttle body. Not much space, so you will have to come at it from the passenger side with some pliers and just keep pulling up and wiggle until it comes out.

PCV Valve - GM (12583384) | GMPartsDirect.com
Typiclayy $1 at the Dealer.
 

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My 2013 LTZ has been pretty good so far. Took that pic last week.

I picked it up at 38,038 miles in February of 2016. It was a former rental car.
Right now she has just over 73k miles on her.
Put a set of all season Bridgestone Ecopia tires on last year. 235/50/18, $750 from Costco. ^^great tires, quiet, and drives straight.

Recently put a new alternator in, $300.

Only check engine light was a faulty Fuel Purge solenoid/valve, $50 at Autozone.
New rear brakes in September, going to order front brakes soon.
Had a new windshield put in last year.
New air filter/cabin air filter replaced regularly. Regular oil changes every 3k miles or so.
Had 2 12” subs for awhile, but sold them to pay bills, thinking about getting a single 15” in October.
Probably needs the tranny fluid replaced soon. Other than that, pretty reliable.

Have you guys noticed the windows going up slowly? Lol. My front passenger side is slower than the driver’s side.
 

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2012 Impala fleet LT @ 240,000 miles

I purchased my 2012 late July 2013. It had 21,141 miles on it. It was a rental car that GM took back and sold through dealers. I primarily use it to commute back and forth to work - 75 miles each way / 150 miles a day / 750 miles a week. My commute includes about 50 miles on I-25 each way (75 mph speed limit) so it has spends a number hours near 80 mph every week. I average about 40,000 miles a year since I bought it.

I do all of my own maintenance.

I change the oil around 7,000 miles, recently changing closer to 6,000. It has started using about quart of oil in 6,000 miles since it went over 200,000. I buy oil filters in bulk (fleet pack of PF63 - 12 filters per box on eBay). I have 5 filters left in my third box.

I rotate my tires every 10,000 miles. I am on my 4th set of Hankook Optimo H727 tires.

I changed the spark plugs twice @ 95,000 and 202,000.

I have drained and refilled the transmission twice @ 95,000 and 201,000.

It has been very reliable. I have three times hit road debris that destroyed a tire and had to come home on the space saver spare. Only once have I had it towed home - when the oil pressure sensor died at 219,000. The engine always had good oil pressure but I didn't want to risk the engine when the low oil pressure light stayed on.

I had to replace 2 different blend door actuators @ 205,000 & 221,000 and one exhaust camshaft actuator @162,000.

I have replaced the brakes once so far at 170,000 miles (advantage of long highway commute). I replaced the battery at 194,000 miles.

I average in the high 20's for gas mileage. My best tank full was 33 mpg when we drove in back from a vacation in New Mexico.
 

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I switched to synthetic at 100K and change it every 5500miles.

Really wish I didnt pay over $200 for a Dealer Transmission Fluid Flush at 90K and will probably just di a drain and fill every 40K from now on.

Change the Brakes and Rotors my self last yr, and God himself tighten those rotor screws and it took all my strength to loosen them, but running good on Ceramic pads, so far.


After changing the PCV Valve, and running a can of CRC Intake Cleaner and adding some Gumout w/PA afterward, it did smooth out a bit more, but might do another Intake spraying since I waited 130K do so. One think I learned on the intake cleaning, is DO NOT floor it after you cleaned it, as you will hear all sorts of clattering in the engine right after and a check engine light due to misfires. I cleared it and drove it for 10 miles on the expressway and it was fine afterward.
Oh yeah, the rotor screws... you need to pick up an impact driver... it will make quick work of those screws every time. I bought a Craftsman years ago for $30. I also have a Snap On kit that a good friend gave me. Harbor Freight I think sells them for $20. You will never fight with those screws again. Look for my hub replacement how to thread... I took a picture of the tool.

The dealer cost for the trans fluid change is ridiculous. At that cost, that would have been at least 6 drain and fills doing it yourself, buying the Castrol Dex 6 on sale at Autozone, and being able to say you did it every 30 or 40,000 miles. It is easy to do. Keep the car level, loosen the drain plug, let it fly, replace the plug, refill, test drive real good to get the trans temp up, check fluid and top as needed.

When it is time for brakes, I am going to do the police parts upgrade.
 

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I picked up my 2016 LTZ from Hertz Car Sales about 2.5 years ago with 22K miles on the clock. The car now has a little over 45K, and has needed only 2 unscheduled services.

I replaced the factory battery last summer and don't feel bad about that, since automotive batteries rarely last longer than 3 years here due to our summer heat. The only other thing was a gas cap replacement fairly recently. The ratchet inside the factory cap was no longer forcing a seal.

Other than those two things, just scheduled maintenance procedures. I send a used oil sample to Blackstone Labs with every oil change, and the analysis reports have all been outstanding.


 
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