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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am looking to upgrade my 2014 Impala LT to HID lights. It will be awhile because I will get the LED bumper lights 1st, but I want to know what I need to buy before the time comes.

I get the impression that Morimoto is one of the best aftermarket HID if not THE best, so I think that's the brand I want.
According to the Sylvania bulb guide the Impala with Halogen uses 9012 but the Impala with factory HID uses D3S. Which is it? Are they both the same? Should I get a 9012 HID kit or D3S HID kit?
Do I need a CANBUS?
Anti-flicker capacitor link?
35W or 50W?
 

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You don't have factory HID wiring so you don't need a kit to go with the factory HID bulb you need a kit to go with the factory 9012 wiring.
35W is plenty
 

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I dunno about the Morimoto is best thing. I have had HID's installed for maybe a month now and have nothing but issues. First I started having the DRL's flicker..... okay... capacitor is probably toast as they worked good for about a week. about 4 days ago I drove the car in the dark and all was well as it should be..... last night start the car and my drivers bulb is out..... so I will troubleshoot it and see if it's the bulb, the ballast or something else..... I am a month in and this is not my first HID retrofit in a vehicle....... not overly impressed.


I went with the capacitor link as it is supposed to be less troublesome than the Canbus..... and the car does not care..... no warnings, no onstar warnings, nothing. 35 Watt is plenty bright and the light output is great.... when they work lol.
 

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Vmax, are you using a separate harness to power your ballasts? If your going straight off the factory bulb connectors the BCM is probably not providing adequate power at night, who knows what's happening in DRL mode...
 

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No it's a separate feed directly off the battery. It only utilizes the drivers side factory bulb harness as a trigger for the relays. The only thing i can think of is the car has one of those antirust module things on it and I wonder if that it backfeeding the hid's enough to kill them through the ground. I really doubt it as the car factory circuits would all be frying as they are not isolated and use the same ground points but who knows lol. I honestly think it's just a bunch of useless junk I bought that I can send back lol.


This stupid car lol... I don't even know why I bought it haha.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I dunno about the Morimoto is best thing. I have had HID's installed for maybe a month now and have nothing but issues. First I started having the DRL's flicker..... okay... capacitor is probably toast as they worked good for about a week. about 4 days ago I drove the car in the dark and all was well as it should be..... last night start the car and my drivers bulb is out..... so I will troubleshoot it and see if it's the bulb, the ballast or something else..... I am a month in and this is not my first HID retrofit in a vehicle....... not overly impressed.


I went with the capacitor link as it is supposed to be less troublesome than the Canbus..... and the car does not care..... no warnings, no onstar warnings, nothing. 35 Watt is plenty bright and the light output is great.... when they work lol.
The DRL flicker is caused by the low power output on the DRL circuit and the HID don't play nice with that. Disable the DRL and it should be fine.
I will be getting the LED bumper lights from assign LTZ and gen5diy.com has a wiring harness that will disable the headlights drl circuit and keep the bumper lights on full time. That way the HID lights don't have to deal with the low power being right on the edge of minimum required voltage. That's how the LTZ is setup and that's what I want.
 

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The DRL flicker is caused by the low power output on the DRL circuit and the HID don't play nice with that. Disable the DRL and it should be fine.
I will be getting the LED bumper lights from assign LTZ and gen5diy.com has a wiring harness that will disable the headlights drl circuit and keep the bumper lights on full time. That way the HID lights don't have to deal with the low power being right on the edge of minimum required voltage. That's how the LTZ is setup and that's what I want.
That's why the capacitor link is there.... and it works just fine when the capacitor isn't blown. Plenty of conversion work just fine in this manner..... however..... That is completely irrelevant to the drivers headlight now being out as well.... I may as well buy the $100 ebay stuff for what am I getting with this. The LTZ swap isn't worth the price of these cars and is grossly overpriced lol.... it's over a grand for me to do that.... yeah forget that on what I consider a beater.
 

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A beater? What did you do to your car to make it a beater? Aftermarket HID lights burning out shouldn't mean your car is a beater.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
OEM LTZ conversion, yes expensive. With some research you can do it for <$500.
For me, the car is not a beater. I wanted one since GM debuted at New York International Auto Show in 2012.
I heard GM was unveiling a new Impala there so I immediately made plans to go to New York. I went again just to see the Impala again in 2013. Didn't care to see anything else, just wanted to see Impala.
Yes, I love Impalas.
 

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A beater? What did you do to your car to make it a beater? Aftermarket HID lights burning out shouldn't mean your car is a beater.
Nothing makes it a beater it's just it's purpose is that of one... It's a 36000 mile cheap little front wheel drive car. It's good on fuel and comfy to drive... plus it's on great shape and wasn't an ex rental haha. I bought it to save useless miles being put on my trucks... and because I just flat out find it more relaxing to drive. I will drive it until it has over 100000 miles or gives issues, dump it and repeat.

The last time I spent the price of the LTZ stuff I got an oem set of f150 hid headlights equipped with a bit better than Fords bulb and ballast... they were flawless and it was a retrofit I bought from the retrofit source actually. I just don't see any value on spending that same money for a set of led strips and a harness... that's all. If this cap link thing continues I may look at options.... see if I can get the LED parts from GM cheap as I do have a good source for that sort of thing and then only buy the harness from DIY.

Well I disconnected the bum capacitor and it must be partially open now as it was inhibiting drivers headlight function. I should have a new cap link sitting at the post office right now so by tomorrow all should be well again. See how long it lasts this time lol.
 

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Hmm, the setup you describe should work just fine, my setup is exactly the same and has been running strong for a year now. My kit is the CANBUS series OPT7 off Amazon, regular price is under $100. Don't think the CANBUS part does anything for me using the discrete power harness, I splurged because I had a large AmEx Amazon credit.

I agree that the LTZ trim is a large tax for nut much in return. We love our 2LT V6, the HID upgrade is nice because the stock halogen bulbs don't have enough output for the optics employed.
 

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Yeah I love the HID's in my world of perpetual darkness I live in here lol. It's all bush and open farm country... I rarely ever see a city so good lighting is a must. I am hoping I install a new capacitor and the issue doesn't repeat itself.
 

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Yeah I love the HID's in my world of perpetual darkness I live in here lol. It's all bush and open farm country... I rarely ever see a city so good lighting is a must. I am hoping I install a new capacitor and the issue doesn't repeat itself.
I'm using the one below off Amazon. You can use a self tapping screw to attach the cap to the side of the headlamp assembly using one of the molded in bungs a factory HID ballast attaches to.

Amazon.com: Kensun HID Kit Computer Warning Canceller & Anti Flicker (1 Pair): Automotive
 

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Well I ordered a set of those Kensuns as the cap that the retrofit source sent me did nothing. They are convinced I have a bad ground and instead of trying to help tell you that in the time that they have spoken with you they could have fixed it and you don't know what you are doing... I would bounce that pricks head off his desk a couple times if he tried that shit in person... but no matter. The relay pack buzzes whether I have the cap installed or not so while on drl it's acting as if there is no capacitor at all. With the headlights on all is well. Worst case.... I starting pricing led strips lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Gen5diy.com has a wiring harness that will power the LTZ LED lights and completely disable the standard DRL. No more low power issues with HID's.
If you don't want the LED's, still contact them, maybe they know another way to disable the DRL without messing with any other functions.
Or maybe buying the harness by itself will do that even without adding the LTZ lights.
 

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Gen5diy.com has a wiring harness that will power the LTZ LED lights and completely disable the standard DRL. No more low power issues with HID's.
If you don't want the LED's, still contact them, maybe they know another way to disable the DRL without messing with any other functions.
Or maybe buying the harness by itself will do that even without adding the LTZ lights.
Read my previous posts lol....That junk from that diy guy is way overpriced for this bucket..... I can think of a lot better uses of like $1300 or so he would cost me.... no thanks. I also like having DRL function of some form... disabling is not an option, period. I know how his works... not interested. A piece of black tape on the photoeye on the dash also solves this problem permanently and costs me absolutely nothing. That is likely the route I will be taking for now anyway.
 

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The harness doesn't cost $1300.
 

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But to buy all the LED junk along with it is between $800 and $1050 in my dollars depending on whether I want aftermarket or oem......then add shipping and duty at the border....probably more than $1300 in my dollars for the oem stuff. And that's me using the on sale prices currently listed on the website..... So no... not going to happen. The harness alone is pretty useless without something to hook to it.... and sure I could tack some bulbs on the car but that's even worse haha. I mean honestly less than a cents worth of black electrical tape also fixes the problem so for now that is good enough lol. I will continue on with this HID endeavour... they will work eventually lol.

Pretty sure the capacitor that i was sent blew again up as I lost the drivers side headlight with it installed. I don't really like this system at all.... they trigger only off the drivers headlight and then one trigger controls both headlights. It did work for a few days.... I have some other caps coming and I will play around with it in the meantime.
 

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You really shouldn't be having this much trouble. I'm using a single relay harness powered and grounded by the under hood fuse box, I'm wired directly to the +/- terminals since my harness has an inline fuse. Relay is triggered by the driver side headlamp output with the kensun cap inline so the relay doesn't chatter in DRL mode. The HID ballasts are powered by the harness output and grounded to the factory arc-studs on the upper rad supports of the motor compartment rails. These studs are the best place to ground as that's their sole purpose. I know, my people run equipment that install them all day long.

It just occurred to me that your mistake is most likely you have the cap in the wrong place. You only need ONE inline with the factory headlamp connector and harness relay. You DO NOT need them between the harness and ballast(s). Correct me if I'm wrong.
 
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