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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Whats up homies. Im installing a Sony Double Din in my 2001 Impala LS. I have OnStar in it.But I am not a subscriber. I plan on getting gmos-01 harness for the radio. Will this keep my messages (oil change,tire pressure, door open,etc) still come up on my dash? Let me know. Thanks​
 

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LIFETIME HILLBILLY
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Yes, it keeps the message canter working :eek:k3:. Imo the oil light is a joke tho I get 2 oil changes Atleast per light lol
 
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LIFETIME HILLBILLY
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And it was a real pita to get the harness and a single din with the cubby hole in my dash, so with a double din you may have to do some trimming of plastic inside the dash to get it to fit good, but any trimming will be hidden. Remember to power up he headunit and adjust the gain and the chimes before you put the dash back together.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks big dawg. Yea screw the oil change light. lolol. I just like having that message center keep going. I saw some other thing saying you need a t harness and hook it up to your old radio also? I guess that's for a standard harness.
 

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LIFETIME HILLBILLY
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Not a problem and the t harness is for relocating the factory headunit to the trunk and adding an aftermarket headunit. I think that's probably the smartest choice but not necessary. Mine has been flawless for months knock on wood. While your in there splice into the gmos1s ground and add an extra ground to the body. I've heard of the stock ground not being enough in some applications. The gmos uses 2 sets of rca's for front and rear speakers your headunit will need 3 sets of rca's if you plan on adding a amp and sub combo. If it doesn't have 3 you may need a rca line converter.



Does your impala have the premium sound system with bose?
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sounds Good. It doesn't but it has the factory amp in the back for the two 6x9s. But I plan on wiring it up for my amp and subs.
 

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LIFETIME HILLBILLY
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If it has the factory amp in the trunk under the package tray its the premium bose sound system. To get the best quality sound you may want to bypass the factory amp. I read somewhere it only puts out like 10 watts to the speakers. I believe Amazon has a bypass harness for the 00-01 impalas for like $20, this would be better since your new headunit would be pulling more power to the speakers.
 

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LIFETIME HILLBILLY
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Amazon.com: Metra 70-2021 Amplifier Integration Harness for 2000-2001 Chevrolet Impala/Monte Carlo: Car Electronics

Its not needed but is a big plus if you plan on upgrading your factory speakers. If no they won't sound too great. Do you plan on upgrading door and deck speakers?
This harness is not needed, but highly recommended. Essentially, without bypassing the factory amp, you are bi-amping the signal (the head unit amplifies the signal, and then the factory amp amplifies it again, causing distortion and poor sound quality). This is notoriously bad in the early 7th gens. If you wan to get the best sound possible, I would recommend replacing the front door speakers with component speakers and amping them with an aftermarket amp. If you are adding a sub, the rear 6x9s can remain disconnected to save you some money, as the sound will mostly get drowned out by the sub. If you aren't going with a sub, I would replace and amp the 6x9s as well. I am personally running 100w rms to each speaker with no sub and I love it.

Edit: With an aftermarket amp, you will not be bi-amping the signal, because the RCA connections from the back of the head unit are "pre-amp outputs" meaning that the head unit does NOT amplify the signal before sending it to the aftermarket amp.
 

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LIFETIME HILLBILLY
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RYD SLO, are you running the amp through stock wiring to the speakers or did you rewire the new components? I was thinking of upgrading my amp and subs with maybe rockfords and using my autotek amp for front components. The amp is 2 channel with like 250 watts max per channel in a 4 ohm load 500 in a 2 ohm per channel or 4 ohms mono bridged is 1000 max
 

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I left in my factory head unit (for now. Needed to save money). So what I did was I bypassed and removed the factory amp. Then I grabbed the wires where they hook up to the speakers (using speaker harnesses so I didn't have to splice into the factory wiring) and ran those to my line out converters. Ran my RCAs from my LOC to the amp, then ran speaker wire to the speakers from the amp.

Not the most efficient way of doing things, and it introduces a lot of opportunity for noise distortion, but it's a temporary set-up and sounds much better than stock.
 
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LIFETIME HILLBILLY
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I think the autotek atx1000.2 I have will do good for 2 components in the door I'm figuring with 250 watt max at 4 ohms per channel would be 80 to 120 rms per channel I'm pushing the amp too hard at the moment with 2 pioneer 10s 4ohms each wired paralell to 2ohms. It's 1000 watt max mono at 4 ohms so 2 ohms mono ain't good for it
 

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Yeah, The hifonics amp I'm running is right at 100w rms @4 ohms x4 chan. I specifically chose this amp to power my Polks because they're rated at 100w rms a piece.

See if you can find out the exact rms rating on your amp, and then pick out a good set of comps that match the output. I don't think you'll be disappointed in the sound
 

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LIFETIME HILLBILLY
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Yeah, The hifonics amp I'm running is right at 100w rms @4 ohms x4 chan. I specifically chose this amp to power my Polks because they're rated at 100w rms a piece.

See if you can find out the exact rms rating on your amp, and then pick out a good set of comps that match the output. I don't think you'll be disappointed in the sound
income tax return where are you???
 

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Heh, I won't even be getting one...
 

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LIFETIME HILLBILLY
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Damn that blows
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
So right now I have a sony head unit, 600w 4 channel amp and kickers in my front doors. My tweeters and 6x9s are mb quart on the stock amp. what do you think would be the best way to set everything up
 
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