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Does anyone know how to "cost effectively" add on an amp and sub to the 100 Watt Factory Amplified System? I don't have the Bose System. But mine does have the factory amp and the 8'' TouchScreen Radio. IO6 I believe it's named. When searching Crutchfield, it's useless. So I called them and they stated that these are fully 2 Ω (ohms) and they told me that I would have to get rid of my touchscreen if I wanted to do anything. That and that amplifier also. Well I mentioned a Line Output Converter and the idea of just adding on a powered subwoofer (amp built in) and I think she said that that would work, but can't remember for sure now. Does anyone know how I can add onto this system and add a 5 Channel Amplifier as well?
Then onto top of this, I'm trying to see what I need to do to add on 6.5, 6X9's or maybe even 8'' Speakers in the rear deck? Where I don't have the Bose Surround Sound System my rear deck is completely blank. I only have factory speakers in all four doors and then tweeters on the dash and that's it. I was wondering if my amp and the bose amp is the same amplifier altogether. If they are, couldn't I maybe just cut out spots in the rear deck and add on a setup of component speakers (2- 6.5's and 2 Tweeters) that are 2Ω Rated and just connect them straight up to the factor amp? I'm assuming that maybe they're not the same amps, but my research kinda seems to conclude that they may be the exact same amp.
Either way it goes, I need to know which wires I can tap into to connect my line output converter for sure. Where I don't have rear deck speakers, will I have to splice into the rear door speakers and then run that on back to Subs for the trunk ? Or does someone know which wires to tap into at the amp itself ?? I'm praying that someone knows...
 

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Does anyone know how to "cost effectively" add on an amp and sub to the 100 Watt Factory Amplified System? I don't have the Bose System. But mine does have the factory amp and the 8'' TouchScreen Radio. IO6 I believe it's named.
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Either way it goes, I need to know which wires I can tap into to connect my line output converter for sure. Where I don't have rear deck speakers, will I have to splice into the rear door speakers and then run that on back to Subs for the trunk ? Or does someone know which wires to tap into at the amp itself ?? I'm praying that someone knows...
Please post your car details: year, trim level, etc. If you want to post the RPO sticker, that might help, too, because it includes all the radio system options you have. I think I can find the hookup info for you, but having that info might make it a little easier.

Doug

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Does anyone know how to "cost effectively" add on an amp and sub to the 100 Watt Factory Amplified System?
Out of curiosity, I've done a little more research on this.

If you just want to add some speakers in the rear deck, here's what I'm thinking.

1. Run a fused, 10 gauge power line from under the hood to the trunk area to power a new amp for the new speakers.

2. Fabricate adapters and mount two 6x9's in the rear deck.

3. Pick off the signals supplying the rear door speakers and run them to the trunk with some 24 gauge wire to the new amp.

That's the basic idea. Some of the details are included below.

1a. Not sure what's the best way to run wire thru the dash on a gen9 Impala.

1b. Make sure you protect the wire with loom.

1c. Don't drill thru anything without being 1000% sure you're not about to commit a catastrophic foul-up.

2a. Without seeing what holes are available in the gen9 rear deck, it's hard to say what's required for this. But my 2013 Cruze has some (unused) odd-duck speaker openings in the rear deck, and, after a brief inspection, I came away thinking I could probably make a decent adapter out of some plywood. This would provide a secure mount for a 6x9. Perhaps the Impala's openings are comparable.

I've included a pic below of the sub-woofer mount I made for my son's gen7 Impala. It mates a 10" round speaker to a rectangular-ish ~6"x18" opening that is in the center of the rear deck. This is more complex than what I envision on my Cruze, but it gives you an idea of what can be fabricated with some plywood, sand paper and a jig saw.

2b. The sub was mounted where the factory amp had been located; that amp was moved to a different place. If there is an additional opening in the center of the gen9 Impala, then consider putting a another speaker there :)

2c. If you go for anything higher than bass frequencies, you will need to address the openings in the package tray above the speakers. Without seeing it, it's hard to determine the impact. It may be as simple as removing a piece of audio insulation below the package tray, or it could be much more involved and require cutting openings and mounting speaker grills. For that, I might consider getting a junkyard replacement package tray and using it while saving your stock one in storage in case you want to restore the stock setup some time in the future.

3a. It looks like, even on the base radio setup, RPO IO3, that the amp is separate from the head unit. Not sure where the amp is, but, if it's in the trunk, obviously it's easier to pick off the rear door signals at the amp rather than finding them at the B-pillars or under the dash.

3b. Most after-market amps, and all the ones I've ever used, have high level and low level inputs - ie, no LOC required. Understand that, if you tap the speaker signal and run it into the new amp, there is no degradation of the signal. The amp inputs are high impedance and present no load on the wires. So the power going to the rear doors remains the same. You're just taking signal info from it, not power.

BTW, FWIW, both my Cruzes have unused rear deck openings, and this is essentially the plan I'm developing for them.

HTH.
Doug

corys_sub1.jpg


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I said:
3a. It looks like, even on the base radio setup, RPO IO3, that the amp is separate from the head unit. Not sure where the amp is, but, if it's in the trunk...
I found a drawing that shows the amp is indeed in the trunk. If I'm seeing this correctly, the amp appears to be located on the passenger side, aft of the shock tower. So that should make accessing the rear door signals very easy.

HTH.
Doug

2019_impala_amp_location.jpg


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Discussion Starter #6
Please post your car details: year, trim level, etc. If you want to post the RPO sticker, that might help, too, because it includes all the radio system options you have. I think I can find the hookup info for you, but having that info might make it a little easier.

Doug

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I'm confused, I don't know what the RPO is, I'm new here, but I fill out everything and then abt my vehicle in my profile though, so I figured you all would be able to see "my garage" or whatever, if needed. Sorry abt it though.
But yeah, mine is the 2014 Impala LT (2LT), with the NON BOSE edition setup. So it's the next step down, but still upgraded with the 8" Flat / Touch Screen Stereo. I've been told by Crutchfield that the either the stereo itself or the Amp itself is ran on a 2 OHM setup, and that if one did tap into the lines, that unless the stereo / amp is switched out, that I'd have to run a 2 ohm additional speakers /subs. But Idk. A 2 ohm sub is easy, but then locating a good quality line output converter that's 2 ohm I imagine is gonna be pricey. And then on top of this, even if the 2 ohm stuff isn't true or something, we'll those 20 / 30$ cut in the linea output converter are very limited in their max wattage output and so I really want some higher wattage to be able to pushed.
On a final note, where this is already a component style setup in the front speakers, part of me was wondering, if one did just upgrade the front door (and tweeters-in dash) with a higher rated quality component setup, would this dramatically increase the quality and bass response it's self?
 

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I'm confused, I don't know what the RPO is, I'm new here, but I fill out everything and then abt my vehicle in my profile though, so I figured you all would be able to see "my garage" or whatever, if needed. Sorry abt it though.
RPO = Regular Production Option. These are all 3-character codes which pertain to all the options included on your car. A sticker in the trunk, on the right side shock tower, lists all the RPOs included in the car. Some better known RPOs are Z28 and LT1, for example.

You want to see which audio system RPO you have. I'm expecting IO3.

And then on top of this, even if the 2 ohm stuff isn't true or something, we'll those 20 / 30$ cut in the linea output converter are very limited in their max wattage output and so I really want some higher wattage to be able to pushed.
If you use an amplifier with high-level inputs (ie, where the amp taps into speaker signals for its inputs) you don't need to worry about loading the source which is driving those speakers. The high-level inputs are high-impedance, on the order of 50k-ohms or higher.

If the existing amp is driving a 2-ohm speaker, and you tap that and route it to the new amp, the old amp sees 2 ohms in parallel with 50k-ohms, which is still 2 ohms. So the old amp is not being over-loaded, so nothing to worry about there.

All the standalone car amps I've ever worked with have high-level inputs (along with low-level RCA inputs). As long as you use an amp like that, you don't need a line-out converter.

HTH.

Doug

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