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Does anyone know how to "cost effectively" add on an amp and sub to the 100 Watt Factory Amplified System? I don't have the Bose System. But mine does have the factory amp and the 8'' TouchScreen Radio. IO6 I believe it's named. When searching Crutchfield, it's useless. So I called them and they stated that these are fully 2 Ω (ohms) and they told me that I would have to get rid of my touchscreen if I wanted to do anything. That and that amplifier also. Well I mentioned a Line Output Converter and the idea of just adding on a powered subwoofer (amp built in) and I think she said that that would work, but can't remember for sure now. Does anyone know how I can add onto this system and add a 5 Channel Amplifier as well?
Then onto top of this, I'm trying to see what I need to do to add on 6.5, 6X9's or maybe even 8'' Speakers in the rear deck? Where I don't have the Bose Surround Sound System my rear deck is completely blank. I only have factory speakers in all four doors and then tweeters on the dash and that's it. I was wondering if my amp and the bose amp is the same amplifier altogether. If they are, couldn't I maybe just cut out spots in the rear deck and add on a setup of component speakers (2- 6.5's and 2 Tweeters) that are 2Ω Rated and just connect them straight up to the factor amp? I'm assuming that maybe they're not the same amps, but my research kinda seems to conclude that they may be the exact same amp.
Either way it goes, I need to know which wires I can tap into to connect my line output converter for sure. Where I don't have rear deck speakers, will I have to splice into the rear door speakers and then run that on back to Subs for the trunk ? Or does someone know which wires to tap into at the amp itself ?? I'm praying that someone knows...
 

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Does anyone know how to "cost effectively" add on an amp and sub to the 100 Watt Factory Amplified System? I don't have the Bose System. But mine does have the factory amp and the 8'' TouchScreen Radio. IO6 I believe it's named.
<snip>
Either way it goes, I need to know which wires I can tap into to connect my line output converter for sure. Where I don't have rear deck speakers, will I have to splice into the rear door speakers and then run that on back to Subs for the trunk ? Or does someone know which wires to tap into at the amp itself ?? I'm praying that someone knows...
Please post your car details: year, trim level, etc. If you want to post the RPO sticker, that might help, too, because it includes all the radio system options you have. I think I can find the hookup info for you, but having that info might make it a little easier.

Doug

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Does anyone know how to "cost effectively" add on an amp and sub to the 100 Watt Factory Amplified System?
Out of curiosity, I've done a little more research on this.

If you just want to add some speakers in the rear deck, here's what I'm thinking.

1. Run a fused, 10 gauge power line from under the hood to the trunk area to power a new amp for the new speakers.

2. Fabricate adapters and mount two 6x9's in the rear deck.

3. Pick off the signals supplying the rear door speakers and run them to the trunk with some 24 gauge wire to the new amp.

That's the basic idea. Some of the details are included below.

1a. Not sure what's the best way to run wire thru the dash on a gen9 Impala.

1b. Make sure you protect the wire with loom.

1c. Don't drill thru anything without being 1000% sure you're not about to commit a catastrophic foul-up.

2a. Without seeing what holes are available in the gen9 rear deck, it's hard to say what's required for this. But my 2013 Cruze has some (unused) odd-duck speaker openings in the rear deck, and, after a brief inspection, I came away thinking I could probably make a decent adapter out of some plywood. This would provide a secure mount for a 6x9. Perhaps the Impala's openings are comparable.

I've included a pic below of the sub-woofer mount I made for my son's gen7 Impala. It mates a 10" round speaker to a rectangular-ish ~6"x18" opening that is in the center of the rear deck. This is more complex than what I envision on my Cruze, but it gives you an idea of what can be fabricated with some plywood, sand paper and a jig saw.

2b. The sub was mounted where the factory amp had been located; that amp was moved to a different place. If there is an additional opening in the center of the gen9 Impala, then consider putting a another speaker there :)

2c. If you go for anything higher than bass frequencies, you will need to address the openings in the package tray above the speakers. Without seeing it, it's hard to determine the impact. It may be as simple as removing a piece of audio insulation below the package tray, or it could be much more involved and require cutting openings and mounting speaker grills. For that, I might consider getting a junkyard replacement package tray and using it while saving your stock one in storage in case you want to restore the stock setup some time in the future.

3a. It looks like, even on the base radio setup, RPO IO3, that the amp is separate from the head unit. Not sure where the amp is, but, if it's in the trunk, obviously it's easier to pick off the rear door signals at the amp rather than finding them at the B-pillars or under the dash.

3b. Most after-market amps, and all the ones I've ever used, have high level and low level inputs - ie, no LOC required. Understand that, if you tap the speaker signal and run it into the new amp, there is no degradation of the signal. The amp inputs are high impedance and present no load on the wires. So the power going to the rear doors remains the same. You're just taking signal info from it, not power.

BTW, FWIW, both my Cruzes have unused rear deck openings, and this is essentially the plan I'm developing for them.

HTH.
Doug

corys_sub1.jpg


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I said:
3a. It looks like, even on the base radio setup, RPO IO3, that the amp is separate from the head unit. Not sure where the amp is, but, if it's in the trunk...
I found a drawing that shows the amp is indeed in the trunk. If I'm seeing this correctly, the amp appears to be located on the passenger side, aft of the shock tower. So that should make accessing the rear door signals very easy.

HTH.
Doug

2019_impala_amp_location.jpg


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Discussion Starter #6
Please post your car details: year, trim level, etc. If you want to post the RPO sticker, that might help, too, because it includes all the radio system options you have. I think I can find the hookup info for you, but having that info might make it a little easier.

Doug

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I'm confused, I don't know what the RPO is, I'm new here, but I fill out everything and then abt my vehicle in my profile though, so I figured you all would be able to see "my garage" or whatever, if needed. Sorry abt it though.
But yeah, mine is the 2014 Impala LT (2LT), with the NON BOSE edition setup. So it's the next step down, but still upgraded with the 8" Flat / Touch Screen Stereo. I've been told by Crutchfield that the either the stereo itself or the Amp itself is ran on a 2 OHM setup, and that if one did tap into the lines, that unless the stereo / amp is switched out, that I'd have to run a 2 ohm additional speakers /subs. But Idk. A 2 ohm sub is easy, but then locating a good quality line output converter that's 2 ohm I imagine is gonna be pricey. And then on top of this, even if the 2 ohm stuff isn't true or something, we'll those 20 / 30$ cut in the linea output converter are very limited in their max wattage output and so I really want some higher wattage to be able to pushed.
On a final note, where this is already a component style setup in the front speakers, part of me was wondering, if one did just upgrade the front door (and tweeters-in dash) with a higher rated quality component setup, would this dramatically increase the quality and bass response it's self?
 

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I'm confused, I don't know what the RPO is, I'm new here, but I fill out everything and then abt my vehicle in my profile though, so I figured you all would be able to see "my garage" or whatever, if needed. Sorry abt it though.
RPO = Regular Production Option. These are all 3-character codes which pertain to all the options included on your car. A sticker in the trunk, on the right side shock tower, lists all the RPOs included in the car. Some better known RPOs are Z28 and LT1, for example.

You want to see which audio system RPO you have. I'm expecting IO3.

And then on top of this, even if the 2 ohm stuff isn't true or something, we'll those 20 / 30$ cut in the linea output converter are very limited in their max wattage output and so I really want some higher wattage to be able to pushed.
If you use an amplifier with high-level inputs (ie, where the amp taps into speaker signals for its inputs) you don't need to worry about loading the source which is driving those speakers. The high-level inputs are high-impedance, on the order of 50k-ohms or higher.

If the existing amp is driving a 2-ohm speaker, and you tap that and route it to the new amp, the old amp sees 2 ohms in parallel with 50k-ohms, which is still 2 ohms. So the old amp is not being over-loaded, so nothing to worry about there.

All the standalone car amps I've ever worked with have high-level inputs (along with low-level RCA inputs). As long as you use an amp like that, you don't need a line-out converter.

HTH.

Doug

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Wow, thanks a whole lot for your detailed reply. I like your idea about picking a rear deck tray from a junkyard impala. I'll be honest, fabrication isn't my strong suit. However, thinking I may need to fabricate some stuff, I did purchase some bad ass battery power rotary saw, miter saw and several attachments that does make wood work fabricating (or plastic) way easier. Although I am a little concerned with my fabrication skills as mentioned. Just to let you know though, the amp is located in the trunk, in the right rear behind paneling. I like the idea of tapping into the speaker signals there. The only thing is though, is that, I do want to be able to finely tune my system. At the moment I'm fine with just installing a couple tens or twelves in the trunk, since the cabin system already sounds so loud that people think I've got subs already, though I don't. Just the 6x9's in the front doors kicking really loudly and the rear 6'' ones are so so. But, so with finely tuning the system, I badly badly want to be able to install a DSP (Digital Signal Processor) in this system so as to not have any time delay affects and just to spec the audio exactly how I want it. But I don't know if this is even possible with the factory system as such that it is and then with a factory and aftermarket amp both....any ideas on that, because that's extremely important to me.
And so, if I'm following your line of thought here, you're saying to run some 4 ga from the battery to a new aftermarket amp in the trunk, and just use this amp to solely power the subs and that's it? Right? And remember, the main thing that concerns me, is when I spoke with Crutchfield and they explained that my system is factory specs for a 2 ohms load. So, when I branch off the speakers as the amp, it'll be a 2 Ohm load, is that a problem? I was thinking it may be. Lastly, so I can fade and balance the system nicely, without having a DSP maybe, should one tap into one front and one rear and then when I branch that from the aftermarket amp, could I the run the left sub as the front and 2nd sub as the rear? That way the balance and faded would sorta balance out.... am I off on that though?
Oh and I was going to clarify, my rear deck doesn't have cut outs in anyway, shape or form that I see when inspecting it from underneath, in the trunk, and from the back seat, inspecting the tray.
Any further info is greatly appreciated from anyone. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well I appreciate that info a lot, hopefully some of it corresponds with my system. But I think mine is the I05 system, from what I can tell anyway. Mine's the 2LT Edition, which I believe, is the absolute next best version of the vehicle, just underneath the LZT Editions...
 

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Okay, I see. Well the only sticker I've found in the trunk whatsoever is the one that has the paint color codes and such. And to top it off, Chevrolet put the sticker down underneath the spare tire, underneath the trunk panel board, honestly it's really difficult to get to, mainly just cause I keep so much in my trunk. But I can tell you that my vehicle is the 2LT Model. And my stereo system is the I05 Edition. The I06 Edition has Android Auto and a better built in GPS System. So mine's "almost" the best one out. I don't know if a new one's been produced since the I06 Model. But I've got the two tweeters on the front dash, no center speaker, then the two door 6x9's, then two 6'' speakers in the rear doors, with nothing at all in the rear deck, not even cutouts. And then I've got the GM Edition 100 Watt Amplifier that's installed in the right rear of the trunk, if that helps. I'll try to get to that sticker again though as soon as I am able.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
plan HTH. Doug [ATTACH type="full said:
162198[/ATTACH]

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BTW< That's totally awesome fabrication that you did for that trunk on the Cruze, I wish I was that skilled to do that myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Please post your car details: year, trim level, etc. If you want to post the RPO sticker, that might help, too, because it includes all the radio system options you have. I think I can find the hookup info for you, but having that info might make it a little easier.

Doug

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All of my car details are on my profile. I'm not sure if everyone can see those specs or not. But I've got the 2014 Impala LT (2LT) with the I05 Stereo System. This is the edition that doesn't feature Android Auto unfortunately. And I badly badly with that it did have Android Auto.
 

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Okay, I see. Well the only sticker I've found in the trunk whatsoever is the one that has the paint color codes and such. And to top it off, Chevrolet put the sticker down underneath the spare tire, underneath the trunk panel board, honestly it's really difficult to get to, mainly just cause I keep so much in my trunk. But I can tell you that my vehicle is the 2LT Model. And my stereo system is the I05 Edition.
<snip>
...nothing at all in the rear deck, not even cutouts.
Glad to see you came back :)

I can't believe there are no openings in the rear deck. Wow! I haven't see a car made in my lifetime (born 1961) that didn't have the cutouts there.

But that's not all bad. It's easily cured with a jigsaw :)

Seriously, I've done it a few times. Always wear ear and eye protection. Rattling the rear deck with a jigsaw is excruciatingly loud, and metal filings are flying everywhere. Someone holding a shop vac nozzle next to the jig saw can help with the latter.

You can get very creative when you start thinking this way :) Here's a couple of 10" subs I put in one of my kids' cars.

subs2.jpg




BTW< That's totally awesome fabrication that you did for that trunk on the Cruze, I wish I was that skilled to do that myself.
Thanks. But that pic was from my son's 2002 Impala. However, I'm planning to fab something similar for one of my Cruzes.
...
You've posted several more questions and comments. I'll address those tomorrow :)

Doug

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Discussion Starter #14
WOW Again. You're seriously amazing as those modifications. That almost looks factory. Not that they would evey design something that awesome though. That's seriously creative though, really.
 

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Okay, I see. Well the only sticker I've found in the trunk whatsoever is the one that has the paint color codes and such. And to top it off, Chevrolet put the sticker down underneath the spare tire, underneath the trunk panel board, honestly it's really difficult to get to, mainly just cause I keep so much in my trunk.
When you get a chance, check the sticker for these RPOs. These are all for on-board electronics, most of them audio/radio.

I'm curious, besides IO5, what other ones you have.

Doug

AP9​
NET-CONVENIENCE​
IO3​
RADIO-INFOTAINMENT SYSTEM - BASE HMI​
IO5​
RADIO-INFOTAINMENT SYSTEM - UPLEVEL HMI, ENHANCED CONNECTIVITY​
IO6​
RADIO-INFOTAINMENT SYSTEM - UPLEVEL HMI, ENHANCED CONNECTIVITY, EMBEDDED NAVIGATION​
NKC​
NOISE CONTROL-SYSTEM, ACTIVE NOISE CANCELLATION​
TG5​
PLAYER-COMPACT DISC AND MP3​
U2J​
DIGITAL AUDIO SYSTEM-S-BAND - NONE​
U2K​
DIGITAL AUDIO SYSTEM-S-BAND​
U77​
ANTENNA-RR WINDOW, RADIO​
UDD​
DISPLAY INSTRUMENT-DRIVER INFO ENHANCED (MULTI COLOR STANDARD GRAPHIC)​
UDT​
INFOTAINMENT DISPLAY-COLOR INFO DISPLAY (CID) 8", WVGA, TOUCH SCREEN​
UE0​
COMMUNICATION SYSTEM-VEHICLE - NONE​
UE1​
COMMUNICATION SYSTEM-VEHICLE, ONSTAR​
UPF​
WIRELESS INTERFACE-SHORT RANGE, VOICE REC​
UQG​
SPEAKER SYSTEM-ENHANCED AUDIO WITH AMPLIFIER​
UQS​
SPEAKER SYSTEM-PREMIUM AUDIO BRANDED WITH SURROUND AMPLIFIER​
USR​
RECEPTACLE-USB​
UVC​
VISION-REAR VIEW, MONO, ANALOG​
VV4​
COMMUNICATION EQUIP-MOBILE INTERNET CONNECTIVITY​
W1Y​
CONTROL-STEERING WHEEL, RADIO, REDUNDANT CONTROLS​
XL7​
FREQUENCIES RATING-315 MHZ, LONG DISTANCE​

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...I did purchase some bad ass battery power rotary saw, miter saw and several attachments that does make wood work fabricating (or plastic) way easier.
Some keys to getting good results: Pick out a nice, straight 1x4 from the home center and use that as a saw guide. That's how to get perfectly straight lines.

Use the right blades. A fine toothed blade or a carbide tipped blade will give the smoothest cuts.

Take your time making your measurements - measure twice, cut once - and make your pencil marks very carefully and consistently.

I have a table saw for making cabinets, but I've also made them with only hand saws. I made a friend an enclosure for two 12" subs to fit behind the seat in his Jeep using only a Skil saw, a jig saw, and a pair of saw horses. (Sorry, no pic.)


The only thing is though, is that, I do want to be able to finely tune my system. <snip> But, so with finely tuning the system, I badly badly want to be able to install a DSP (Digital Signal Processor) in this system so as to not have any time delay affects and just to spec the audio exactly how I want it. But I don't know if this is even possible with the factory system as such that it is and then with a factory and aftermarket amp both....any ideas on that, because that's extremely important to me.
I've not worked with a DSP for audio. But I know a little about it, mainly the chips inside. Back when I was selling the chips, the big cost adder was RAM on board the main processing chip. Audio phasing (delay) can eat up RAM quickly which jacks up the cost. At least, it did back in the day :)

Having the Bose system in my 2007 Impala, I can tell how sitting in the driver's seat feels like I have the best seat at the concert, so I know the four channels are phase adjusted to all arrive at that spot simultaneously. The driver's door speaker would get the most delay while the right rear would get the least.

If you tapped off the rear door speakers to provide signal to rear deck speakers, it should sound very good, but it may not be perfect. That said, trying to adjust the phase of the other 6 speakers in the system to sync them up with the added rear deck speakers is probably more trouble than it's worth (if not impossible).

And so, if I'm following your line of thought here, you're saying to run some 4 ga from the battery to a new aftermarket amp in the trunk, and just use this amp to solely power the subs and that's it? Right?
Yes. 10 or 8 or 6 gauge would probably work, too. Over the short length of a car, 10 gauge can source like 40 amps, which puts you in the vicinity of sourcing 500 watts into the amp, which should get you plenty of bang out of the amp.

And remember, the main thing that concerns me, is when I spoke with Crutchfield and they explained that my system is factory specs for a 2 ohms load. So, when I branch off the speakers as the amp, it'll be a 2 Ohm load, is that a problem? I was thinking it may be.
One individual channel of the factory amp will see the 2 ohm speaker in parallel with the ~50kohm load of the sub amp input. IOW, the factory amp will not notice the added load. I'll post a drawing later to help clarify this.

Lastly, so I can fade and balance the system nicely, without having a DSP maybe, should one tap into one front and one rear and then when I branch that from the aftermarket amp, could I the run the left sub as the front and 2nd sub as the rear? That way the balance and faded would sorta balance out.... am I off on that though?
I wouldn't mix front and rear that way. I would just use the left rear door to provide left rear deck, and right rear door for the right rear deck. The amp I plan to use in my next project has a gain control and the option to mix two inputs (L and R) into a single mono output. With that amp, I can drive two speakers, L and R. Or, using the mono option, I can bridge wire it to drive one channel. That one channel may be one speaker, or it can be two speakers wired in parallel. And the gain can be adjusted to make the volume of the subs fit in with all the other channels.

I've attached a drawing (as promised) showing the possible sub amp hookups I envision. I look forward to any questions you have.

HTH.
Doug

sub_hookup.jpg

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Discussion Starter #17
I see what you're saying. I do have a Aline MRV-F300, or at least I think that's the model number of it, and it is a bridgeable amp. I think it was awarded amp of the year in 2018. And it's a 4 Channel amp, or setup in bridge mode. So this amp does have Hi-Level Inputs, but unfortunately I don't have the Hi-Level Input Adapter that it came with. Any ideas on obtaining one? Contact Alpine or Ebay I suppose...? But so you would suggest bridging this amp's left and right channels to lead to 2 (10'') Subs, right?
 

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Some keys to getting good results: Pick out a nice, straight 1x4 from the home center and use that as a saw guide. That's how to get perfectly straight lines.

Use the right blades. A fine toothed blade or a carbide tipped blade will give the smoothest cuts.

Take your time making your measurements - measure twice, cut once - and make your pencil marks very carefully and consistently.

I have a table saw for making cabinets, but I've also made them with only hand saws. I made a friend an enclosure for two 12" subs to fit behind the seat in his Jeep using only a Skil saw, a jig saw, and a pair of saw horses. (Sorry, no pic.)




I've not worked with a DSP for audio. But I know a little about it, mainly the chips inside. Back when I was selling the chips, the big cost adder was RAM on board the main processing chip. Audio phasing (delay) can eat up RAM quickly which jacks up the cost. At least, it did back in the day :)

Having the Bose system in my 2007 Impala, I can tell how sitting in the driver's seat feels like I have the best seat at the concert, so I know the four channels are phase adjusted to all arrive at that spot simultaneously. The driver's door speaker would get the most delay while the right rear would get the least.

If you tapped off the rear door speakers to provide signal to rear deck speakers, it should sound very good, but it may not be perfect. That said, trying to adjust the phase of the other 6 speakers in the system to sync them up with the added rear deck speakers is probably more trouble than it's worth (if not impossible).

Yes. 10 or 8 or 6 gauge would probably work, too. Over the short length of a car, 10 gauge can source like 40 amps, which puts you in the vicinity of sourcing 500 watts into the amp, which should get you plenty of bang out of the amp.

One individual channel of the factory amp will see the 2 ohm speaker in parallel with the ~50kohm load of the sub amp input. IOW, the factory amp will not notice the added load. I'll post a drawing later to help clarify this.


I wouldn't mix front and rear that way. I would just use the left rear door to provide left rear deck, and right rear door for the right rear deck. The amp I plan to use in my next project has a gain control and the option to mix two inputs (L and R) into a single mono output. With that amp, I can drive two speakers, L and R. Or, using the mono option, I can bridge wire it to drive one channel. That one channel may be one speaker, or it can be two speakers wired in parallel. And the gain can be adjusted to make the volume of the subs fit in with all the other channels.

I've attached a drawing (as promised) showing the possible sub amp hookups I envision. I look forward to any questions you have.

HTH.
Doug

View attachment 162395
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Oh and yeah, I know the DSP's are sorta high, that's for sure. The best priced one's I've found, when looking a couple months back, was on Ebay and they were around 150$ or more. Those are usually only rated for a few hundred watts though, this may or may not be sufficient, but I've got to get some more info on integrating a DSP with this OEM \ Aftermarket Setup that I'm about to install from someone. Hopefully through this forum I'm praying.
 

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I see what you're saying. I do have a Aline MRV-F300, or at least I think that's the model number of it, and it is a bridgeable amp. I think it was awarded amp of the year in 2018. And it's a 4 Channel amp, or setup in bridge mode. So this amp does have Hi-Level Inputs, but unfortunately I don't have the Hi-Level Input Adapter that it came with. Any ideas on obtaining one? Contact Alpine or Ebay I suppose...?
I would contact whoever sells the amp. Was the hi-level input adapter simply a cable? Or something more complex?

Alternatively, assuming the amp also has low level inputs (sometimes called RCA inputs), you could get a line-out converter (LOC) to convert the speaker signals down to low levels.

But so you would suggest bridging this amp's left and right channels to lead to 2 (10'') Subs, right?
I looked up the MRV-F300. It looks very similar to the MRP-F300 I have in my F150.

According to Crutchfield: The MRV-F300 has four channels. You can bridge channels 1 & 2, and/or 3 & 4. Each individual channel is rated at 50W into 4Ω, or 75W into 2Ω. Bridged rating is 150W into 4Ω (for each bridged pair).

You have several options. Here are two I would consider:

1. Use two 150 watt speakers, each spec'd at 4Ω (minimum). Configure the amp as two bridged amps, each one driving one of the speakers.

2. Configure the amp using two channels to make one bridged channel and drive two 8Ω speakers wired in parallel (to make 4Ω). That leaves two unused channels for something else you dream up :)

As for 10" subs, if you want to go that route, I assume they would be in boxes mounted in the trunk. That will muffle the sound some.

Looking into the rear package tray details, I found there is a lower cover on the package tray. Could that be what you saw covering up the speaker holes? Looking at the sheet metal Chevy sells for replacement, they only show one package tray with speaker cutouts. So I'm thinking that's what you have if you peek around that lower cover.

In that case, I would figure out a way to mount two 6x9's there. Or two 10's if you're really ambitious :)

Seriously, since it's made for 6x9's, that's what I would pursue. Even then, you will need to either get GM speakers that are made to mount there ($$$) or fab some mounts for aftermarket 6x9's. As far as I know, no one makes aftermarket adapters (yet) for these openings. Either way, I think speakers mounted in the rear deck will have higher fidelity than boxes in the trunk, and 6x9's will be a lot easier to mount in the rear deck openings than 10" subs :)

The pic below shows the sheet metal package tray and the lower cover.

Doug

2014_impala_rear_package_tray.jpg


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