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Looking for advice/Help. I replaced the rear brakes (pads and rotors) on my 07 LT for the 1st time, in the 2 years ive had it. They were grinding prior to me finally having time to replace them but 3 weeks later, the pads were completely worn down again on both sides! The caliper sliders move freely so i was thinking maybe bad pads. Replaced them again, only to be back in the same grinding situation less than a month later. This is ridiculous since I know I would typically change the front pads maybe 3 times before having to change the rears. Ive done plenty of brake jobs in my life and always do my homework prior, but this on has me baffled.
Is there something I'm doing wrong?

Thanks in advance.
 

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Looking for advice/Help. I replaced the rear brakes (pads and rotors) on my 07 LT for the 1st time, in the 2 years ive had it. They were grinding prior to me finally having time to replace them but 3 weeks later, the pads were completely worn down again on both sides! The caliper sliders move freely so i was thinking maybe bad pads. Replaced them again, only to be back in the same grinding situation less than a month later. This is ridiculous since I know I would typically change the front pads maybe 3 times before having to change the rears. Ive done plenty of brake jobs in my life and always do my homework prior, but this on has me baffled.
Is there something I'm doing wrong?

Thanks in advance.

One suggestion is that you did not properly lube the caliper slide pins and the brake pad glide / slide points with the proper high-temperature brake lube.

It is possible both calipers are bad, and the pistons are not retracting - causing the pads to stick and wear down (and drag).

Did you use a high quality brake pad (or OEM ACDelco)? If not, you may have brake pads with improperly stamped/machined backing plates that are causing the pads to stick.
 

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If slide pins are lubed and free, I'd suspect calipers or brake hoses. Which type of e-brake do you have? The older "drum in hat" style or the newer style that utilizes the rear caliper/pads?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm certain of everything, except of the calipers.
Sliders are moving freely and the caliper pistons retract fine when closing, no leaks. Any other signs I should look for to determine bad calipers?

E-brake is horseshoe style drum.
 

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Fwiw, hoses can appear fine externally, no bulges/collapses, but fail internally acting like a check valve allowing fluid to activate the brakes but not allowing the fluid to return.
 

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Is it both sides of the car that wear down to nothing? Or both sides of the pads for one caliper? If its the later, I would definitely replace the rubber brake hose like sheila mentioned. If its both sides of the car, is it even wear on each pad? If all 4 rear pads wear down to nothing in 3 weeks...that would be quite something and pretty confusing. I would have to imagine your gas mileage is absolutely terrible at this point.
 

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Another thing to be sure of is that the pad ears are OK. That is, I have come across pad backing plates that were not quite matched to the caliper. I ground them with a belt sander (on its stand), and they moved sufficiently afterwards. (I painted the sanded areas to slow rust, but I did not use grease thinking dirt and dust would undesirably stick (like on carburetor linkage)).

Are the wear indicator tabs hitting?

All parts not in interference (i.e. correct parts)?

Parts bolted down correctly?

Wheel bolted correctly?
 
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