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Golen LT1 Stroker Long Block

7K views 7 replies 4 participants last post by  SuperSport 
#1 ·
I was looking at the Golen High Performance Engine Website where they are offering several variations of the LT1 Stroked engines. Their engines are sold outright with no core requirements. I am particularly interested in their LT1 383 500BHP long block. They are offering it for 7k plus shipping with a three year warranty (see link). Also they recommend using their custom intake, 58MM throttle body, and 30lb injectors. They say this engine is streetable on 91 octane. I own a 97 Z28 LT1 with only 23k original miles and was thinking about stuffing one of these Golen engines in it and storing the original LT1. Any thoughts from the experts on this? I would appreciate the advice. Note: The picture of the Camaro is not mine although my Z28 is the same color, just as nice, and no T-Tops. Thanks.......det45


https://www.golenengineservice.com/engines/lt1lt4-engines/lt-long-blocks/lt1-long-block-383500hp
 

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#2 ·
Oh, one more thing I want to ask; I'm a Plug & Play type of person and NOT as knowledgeable as Dwayne J and others. So any advice on where I can (outright) purchase a Bullet Proof 4L60E and torque converter to handle this Golen engine?
 
#3 ·
http://www.impalaforums.com/chevy-impala-6th-gen-discussion/239880-tim-allen-says-more-power.html
Car needs thousands in mods before looking at major engine upgrades. There are huge performance gains to be had without doing a stroker.
Then come time to do the engine Golen would NOT be a good place to go, consistently under perform, unreliable but really well marketed.

In the past several guys have gotten all bent out of shape when I told them they were making a mistake going with Golen, only to a year or two later send me a PM stating basically "you were right about everything" one of them managed to go about as fast with his stroker as I did with a stock shortblock, but he had better weather. One of them found a rodbolt crossthreaded suggesting they are assembling with air tools. More than I can count have failed between 3-7k miles.............

There is a lot of junk out there designed to take your money.
 
#4 ·
#5 ·
Bones, I know nothing about them.

An important distinction before further talk is rwhp vs. fwhp rear wheel vs. flywheel, looking at maybe 12% losses best case or when you use a "happy" dyno like Golen does his customers typically see more than 25% loss at the tire. Even his fans will tell you his 520hp 396 is unlikely to put 400 to the tire. Losses are greater with the automatic tranny, all numbers going forward are assuming automatic, when researching remember a lot of LT1s had T56s behind them which is very efficient and results in a higher hp number at the tire.

Really IMO a stroker build when you have a perfectly good 350 is a waste, either needs thousands in exhaust, fuel, tranny, suspension mods so we will call that a wash and not talk about those figure right now.

The heads and cam can take a 290rwhp bolton car and push it to 400rwhp(some better setups 425rwhp) for $3000 if honest about gaskets, fluids, core heads, valvetrain yadda yadda. Now a stroker needs good heads and cam so you have at least that $3000 number already, but then by the time you buy a good forged kit and have it well machined and balanced, assembled you are in another $3500 and that $3500 will get you maybe 20rwhp in most cases if willing to use a larger cam to go with the larger displacement so it isn't even really the displacement adding all the power. Now granted it will have more lowend torque BUT with the 3.06 first gear in the tranny, as well as overdrive and lockup allowing 3.73s to be very comfortable, a 6500rpm heads/cam motor should make nice off idle torque anyway. The compression the LT1 likes helps a lot with that, most heads/cam setups are 11.2-11.5:1 and built moors are often 12-12.5:1.

Displacement is the first thing newbs want to do but in reality is is the last thing you should look at, it is the most expensive way to add a modest mount of power. I have even seen guys in a blind quest for displacement NOT add power, hell one kid managed to have a 383 with headers make 220rwhp which is bone stock number. When considering 260fwhp stock that is about 15% drivetrain loss, but things we do like deeper gears and higher stall make drivetrain losses rise even though they add a lot of performance.

Before it comes up the opti is fine, I haven't had any trouble with stock ignition even with an engine that has seen 7000rpm and has cranking compression of 245psi.
 
#7 ·
Ok, let me lower the level of modification down a few notches if I may. Being that my Camaro has low miles and is completely stock it seems to be performing as expected considering is has (according to GM) 285hp. Even with the 2.73 highway gears and a 4L60E auto it smokes the tires fairly easy. What would be the simplest way for me to make this Camaro seem like it's a little faster (so I can feel like I'm all that and a bag of chips)? What I'm saying is I have decided not to go to the Dwayne J level of modifications (a complement) and go with simple bolt on or gears etc. Thanks......det45
 
#8 ·
I started out with rear end carrier, and 3.73 gears. The next in the plan was 2.5" exhaust, with tri-y headers. Then, life stepped in....

My 3200rpm converter is sitting in the trunk, the rebuilt trans (with a few upgraded parts) is on a palette in my garage, and maaaaaaaaybe I'll have my '95 SS back running before Christmas. LOL
 
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