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Discussion Starter #1
I have an issue right now on my 2007 LT Impala V6 with a column shifter. I had a P0449 code on car and put the part on car and started the engine but engine light was still on so I unhooked negative battery cable and let it sit for ten minutes hooked it back up and key will do nothing in start position. Also no gear selector is present from park to low so no square around any of the gears when I move shifter.

Also key fobs I have two..neither will unlock or lock car door actually the hard key will not even unlock or lock the door with it open or closed i tried. I tried to reprogram fobs with settings on dash but it comes to a point where it says FEATURE SETTINGS AVAILABLE IN PARK. so I could not reprogram fobs. I went and put new batteries in both fobs and did not help (probably have to relearn them now,,but thats why I tried this before I put new batteries in them). Headlights work fine. trunk will not open. basically the fobs do nothing but I do hear a relay click when I push the lock button but only the first time I push it.

So not sure if I have a pass lock issue, ignition switch issue, neutral safety switch issue, battery issue, starter issue, brake solenoid sensor, ???

Anyone had this issue? I am sure people have!
 

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It sounds as though there is a neutral safety switch issue, or the column shifter cable is out-of-adjustment. Are you stepping on the brake pedal when you try to start the engine? Can you hear the brake shifter interlock solenoid “click” when you step on the pedal?

Try pushing the shifter lever to the left (park position), while trying to start the car. If it does not start, try wiggling the lever or pulling towards the right slightly.

I also suspect you have a battery issue - a defective or discharged batter and/or loose or corroded cable connectors. Check them closely and ensure they are clean and tight.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So..so far the only things I have done are:
1.Cleaned up battery terminals and tightened (not really corroded at all)
2.Cleaned and wire brushed Negative ground to chassis bolt.
3.Hooked meter to battery and it reads at 12.25V
4.Tested fuses both with probe and visually (under hood)
5.Tried jumpstarting
6.Tried starting in every gear both pushing pulling on gear shifter, wiggling key ignition
7.Took keys clear away out of range of car, unhooked both batt. cables wait 30 min. tried starting
8.Swapped Starter relay out with another one momentarily to see if it started

A few things I don't think I mentioned or just found out are:
1.Battery is 2 years old, 600 CCAmp 750 C amps
2.No reverse lights but has bright headlights
3.No inside chime or light under dash, but has all dash lights working
4.No Security light on but when I first tried radio it had one station working and others said XM ANTITHEFT so am guessing just because battery was unhooked because since then all stations are working and does not say that anymore when I try.
5.Relays seem to click when negative cable hooked up, or after clicking fobs, trying to start
6.I can hear fuel pump when key is put to start

Sure I will try again but wonder if anyone has ever had issue with this happening? Only things I could see are:
Battery
Cables
Starter
Ignition
NSS
Antennae
Relay

I don't want to just start throwing parts at it..but about ready to!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It sounds as though there is a neutral safety switch issue, or the column shifter cable is out-of-adjustment. Are you stepping on the brake pedal when you try to start the engine? Can you hear the brake shifter interlock solenoid “click” when you step on the pedal?

Try pushing the shifter lever to the left (park position), while trying to start the car. If it does not start, try wiggling the lever or pulling towards the right slightly.

I also suspect you have a battery issue - a defective or discharged batter and/or loose or corroded cable connectors. Check them closely and ensure they are clean and tight.
Thanks for the reply. I think I posted about the same time you did. I am not completely sure there is any noise when I depress the brake pedal?

I know the linkage that comes out of firewall and goes to the top of transmission lever has a tiny amount of play in the linkage maybe quarter inch but the coiled part of linkage under hood is quite rusty where it connects together by the plastic pieces.

Yes I have tried starting with the methods you have stated with no luck.

I am thinking the ignition will not send the signal to starter because it doesn't think the car is in park? or like you say it doesn't know what gear its in due to bad or dirty NSS
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Car still down and I got some help pushing it back into garage. Wife wanted to try jumpstart and I hesitated but did it and had to go down incline with it before could reach it. So a few things I have found out and tried after my original post are:

Checked ground under hood on frame with meter from battery. Read 12.2 same as battery.
I looked again at some of the other fuses under hood and passenger inside area and look good as far as I can tell and test good with light but under dash the TRUNK and RAP fuses are not lighting up with the probe? and it doesn't matter if key is off or on? (I think some fuses the key has to be on and some do not)
I also checked the ground to make sure it was tight that runs under and along edge of passenger door.

I also do not think the parking brake is working well, if at all even?

Anyone have any other ideas for this 2007 Impala?
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I have been told by a locksmith that the problem has nothing to do with the keys, fobs, or Pass Lock system stopping it from starting.

I have been told by someone on another forum that the car has probably lost all memory or some of it anyhow when battery was unhooked and will have to see the mechanic shop or dealer to be fixed. That is why it will not crank or start. Bummer..looks like time to tow it away?
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
A little update..2 months later..lol after finally getting the car on ramps at my house and checking starter and ignition, I ended up getting car towed through my insurance which luckily did not cost me anything the shop has told me that the BCM is getting signals in but not sending signals out to everything most importantly the ignition so it needs replaced. Power and Grounds are okay, ignition is not the culprit and they think the FEATURE SETTINGS AVAILABLE IN PARK that shows on the dash menu is a glitch from BCM being bad however they can't be sure theres still not a problem with Neutral Safety Switch, and have left an open ended area on future cost across the board even after the BCM is replaced which with parts, labor, programming and diagnostics is a little over $800. (that price seem fair?)

I questioned the fact however that the headlights work, the radio works, the windshield wipers work, the power seats work and they are all or most of them controlled by the BCM? so not sure for some reason that makes me think that the BCM is not totally dead or even the main problem but they can't communicate with BCM..they say signals are not going out from BCM to all components but are to some so thats why wipers, headlights work.

Any Input from anyone that has been through this as far as pricing, and so forth. I am trying to justify if its worth fixing. We only bought this car to help my oldest daughter and son in law since they were getting a new vehicle so we only have $1,500 in buying it from them but on the other hand its rusting out bad, gas lines, gas filler tube halfway rotted, pinch welds are rotten down both sides thats the main reason I just used car ramps..lol so not sure its worth messing with?

By the way I had battery load tested and charged..definitely not a battery problem.
 
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