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Those two are 30Amp JCASE fuses. They pull straight up out of the fuse block. Rock them slightly and they'll move.

The components you've checkmarked are not fuses. They're ISO 280 micro relays. The 1" gray cubes are ISO 280 mini relays. GM & Delphi sourced them from Omron and Tyco. Way cheaper to buy Omron and Tyco branded 4 & 5 terminal ISO 280 relays from Mouser, DigiKey, Newark, DelCity, ... and there's no difference in quality. I buy the 40Amp relays. They will fit in place of the 20A & 30A parts just fine. It was probably cheaper to buy several different lower amperage relays but there's no reason for us to bother. Not sure how much the pick a part guys get for em. Probably too much.

The ISO 280 micro relays you pulled out should drive the radiator fan and HVAC blower.
The 30A JCASE fuses are likely for the same circuits.

Now... I wouldn't pull those fuses and I would put those relays back where they belong.

If you have a fan running with the ignition off you need to find out which one it is and properly deal with it.
The HVAC blower will run for 30sec to a few minutes after you switch the ignition off. This is normal. Don't mess with the after-run on the HVAC blower. It runs to dry out the evaporator so L-Pneumophilla bacteria (Legionaires disease) among other nasty bacterias and molds don't have a moist warm environment to grow in the HVAC system of your car. Best case the HVAC will stink like damp musty laundry or a moldy HE clothes washer that's not taken care of... worst case you get a case of lethal pneumonia from the AC in your car.

If it's the radiator fans... again they will run for up to a few minutes after you go for a toot so the engine doesn't heat soak and blow gaskets.
 

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Jackhammering noise from under the dash is usually blend door motors. Less often it's the recirc door motor.

You can temporarily unplug them to shut them up.
You'll find several threads about how to deal with them.
 
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This video has the jackhammering blend door actuator noise starting around 1:18
 
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