Whatever fits. Its not a critical part.
Exhaust Flange Bolts
Hi, my muffler fell off the car because it rusted off. So I bought a replacement cat back system from Rock Auto. My question is what kind of bolts do I need to replace in the flange between the cat pipe and the resonator? Pictured below. I ask because with amount of rust, I will likely be cutting then out in some way. Thank you
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Yeah, I will just run up to the hardware store and get a couple sizes, see what works.Whatever fits. Its not a critical part.
Go to the auto parts store. They have standard exhaust bolts which are nearly exact replacements. These have corrosion resistant platings (not that they won't eventually rust) and splines so they will stay in position once installed. I would wait until you start removing the old ones so you can get some length and diameter info to take to the store.Yeah, I will just run up to the hardware store and get a couple sizes, see what works.
HTH.
Doug
.
My problem is that I'm going somewhere else and doing the work, and they dont have a spare car to use, and they wont be there. This is why I wanted the stuff first. I can also try at the auto parts store tomorrow, I grabbed some galvanized bolts that should fit at the hardware store today.Go to the auto parts store. They have standard exhaust bolts which are nearly exact replacements. These have corrosion resistant platings (not that they won't eventually rust) and splines so they will stay in position once installed. I would wait until you start removing the old ones so you can get some length and diameter info to take to the store.Yeah, I will just run up to the hardware store and get a couple sizes, see what works.
HTH.
Doug
.
Might not hurt to hit those bolt threads with some pb blaster before hand and then again right before you attempt to take them loose. Might still end up having to grind or cut them off, but possible with some penetrating oil and an impact that they may break loose.My problem is that I'm going somewhere else and doing the work, and they dont have a spare car to use, and they wont be there. This is why I wanted the stuff first. I can also try at the auto parts store tomorrow, I grabbed some galvanized bolts that should fit at the hardware store today.
That is the plan, some liquid wrench or similar, then cutting if need be.Might not hurt to hit those bolt threads with some pb blaster before hand and then again right before you attempt to take them loose. Might still end up having to grind or cut them off, but possible with some penetrating oil and an impact that they may break loose.My problem is that I'm going somewhere else and doing the work, and they dont have a spare car to use, and they wont be there. This is why I wanted the stuff first. I can also try at the auto parts store tomorrow, I grabbed some galvanized bolts that should fit at the hardware store today.
The biggest challenge I anticipate is having to remove the remnants of the two bolts from the flange.That is the plan, some liquid wrench or similar, then cutting if need be.
If you try to remove the nuts, even after soaking with PB-Blaster, there's still a good chance of either rounding off the nuts or twisting the bolts off (leaving part of them stuck in the flange).
Sometimes, heating the bolt with a torch will allow the nut to turn.
If you do break off the bolts, I've drilled axially thru them before using progressively larger bits until the annular radius was thin enough to be able to collapse the now hollow shaft and pull out the remains. But that takes several drill bits and assumes you can get a drill into the correct position to use it.
The other thought is a cutting torch. It will go much faster, but my fear with that is damaging the flange.
If the existing bolts can be re-used, that would be great. But I expect that, even with PB-Blaster, you'll find yourself using some choice words trying to remove the nuts.
Doug
.
There is an expectation of difficulty getting the bolts out, with choice words. But, once that's out, the rest should be a piece of cake.The biggest challenge I anticipate is having to remove the remnants of the two bolts from the flange.That is the plan, some liquid wrench or similar, then cutting if need be.
If you try to remove the nuts, even after soaking with PB-Blaster, there's still a good chance of either rounding off the nuts or twisting the bolts off (leaving part of them stuck in the flange).
Sometimes, heating the bolt with a torch will allow the nut to turn.
If you do break off the bolts, I've drilled axially thru them before using progressively larger bits until the annular radius was thin enough to be able to collapse the now hollow shaft and pull out the remains. But that takes several drill bits and assumes you can get a drill into the correct position to use it.
The other thought is a cutting torch. It will go much faster, but my fear with that is damaging the flange.
If the existing bolts can be re-used, that would be great. But I expect that, even with PB-Blaster, you'll find yourself using some choice words trying to remove the nuts.
Doug
.
The bolts didnt want to cooperate, so I ended up cutting the pipe and clamping it.
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