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Anyone experience similar issues with their locks not locking or unlocking when door button or remote button are pressed?
It doesn't always happen, but when it does, I have to manually lock it.
 

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Anyone experience similar issues with their locks not locking or unlocking when door button or remote button are pressed?
It doesn't always happen, but when it does, I have to manually lock it.
My first instinct is that it's either the driver's side lock switch, or the wires going to. The driver's door gets opened/closed most often, and is thus more susceptible to the wires being damaged. The frequent flexing can cause chafing of the insulation and breaks in the copper. Either a shorted or opened wire might be intermittently causing your problem. That is, the same problem could be causing both the switches and the remote to not work.

I would start by pulling back the accordion rubber in the door jamb, and inspecting for broken and chafed wires. If you can get a drawing, you would want to focus on the wires for the locks - that is, find the color callouts in the drawing and look for those wires.

If the wiring looks good, next I'd remove the switch and inspect it. That may require removing the door trim.

HTH.

Doug

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Is this the first signs that the 9th gen have door lock actuator problems like 8th? That would be unfortunate.
The 8th gens have door lock actuator problems? I honestly have heard of many failures... HVAC actuators - definitely, door lock actuators - not so much....

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The 8th gens have door lock actuator problems? I honestly have heard of many failures... HVAC actuators - definitely, door lock actuators - not so much....

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I had two go bad. There are numerous threads where multiple people had the issue. The OEM parts are stupid expensive too.

http://www.impalaforums.com/chevy-impala-8th-gen-discussion/338167-door-lock-actuators.html
http://www.impalaforums.com/chevy-impala-8th-gen-discussion/269007-rear-power-door-locks-failed-on-08-a.html
http://www.impalaforums.com/chevy-impala-8th-gen-discussion/377530-bad-door-lock-actuator.html
http://www.impalaforums.com/chevy-impala-8th-gen-discussion/322188-doors-will-not-lock-at-all.html

It goes on...but you get the picture. I would say it is a known issue. Not sure if 9th gen use the same parts or not.
 

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I'm certainly not saying that there haven't been any failures, but I haven't heard about the issue all that often. With as many 8th gens as there are out there, there are going to be failures - but the lock actuator failures just don't seem to be all that common to me. For example, 2 out of the 4 threads you linked to were from 2013 - 4 years ago. I'm sure that there are other threads - and maybe I'm wrong, but I personally haven't see an unusually high number of posts about this issue. Who knows, maybe I just block them out with the hopes that if I ignore the reports, it wont happen to me! :)

Now 8th gen transmission issues and HVAC actuator issues - now those are what I consider to be "common" issues! :)

That being said, I did modify my 2012 settings (via the DIC) so that only the drivers door locks and unlocks with the first press of the key fob buttons) - since I'm usually the only one getting in the car, I figured why have the other 3 locks doing work for no reason. :) My wife hates it though - every time I turn the car off, my door unlocks automatically and hers doesn't. :)


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No problems with the door locks on our 15 Impala
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Seems to be not working at all anymore. I bought the car used from a dealer, any chance they will fix at no cost? I am guessing I will have to pay for it, but someone bet me that the dealer would.
 

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IF you are still within the 3 year/36k mile bumper-to-bumper warranty, you can take the car back to ANY chevy dealer and they will fix it for free. If you are not within the bumper-to-bumper warranty, then no, they won't fix it for free...

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Check TSB #PI1018A
The dealer will have 20+ run around reasons for why it doesn't always work when you press the buttons lol i've read literally hundreds of service bulletins and tech tips stating findings that almost any signal can and potentially will interfere with the keyless remote of all makes and models, anything from a home/business WIFI signal and near by cell phone towers to there being too many chevrolet or like make vehicles parked in the vicinity...and everything in between. See the attached TSB claming USB charging interference.
http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=188903

Also see TSB: # PIT5119C
Essentially the key lock cylinders can stick open ever so slightly when removing key blade from said cylinder, causing the PCM to think the key is still in the vehicle disabling keyless control. Per TSB lubricate all door lock cylinders and ignition lock cylinder with lubricant spray...and cross your fingers. (Okay I added that last part)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
IF you are still within the 3 year/36k mile bumper-to-bumper warranty, you can take the car back to ANY chevy dealer and they will fix it for free. If you are not within the bumper-to-bumper warranty, then no, they won't fix it for free...

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Well damn, I think I have 36,400 or so now, this started before then. Do they ever have any wiggle room?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Check TSB #PI1018A
The dealer will have 20+ run around reasons for why it doesn't always work when you press the buttons lol i've read literally hundreds of service bulletins and tech tips stating findings that almost any signal can and potentially will interfere with the keyless remote of all makes and models, anything from a home/business WIFI signal and near by cell phone towers to there being too many chevrolet or like make vehicles parked in the vicinity...and everything in between. See the attached TSB claming USB charging interference.
http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=188903

Also see TSB: # PIT5119C
Essentially the key lock cylinders can stick open ever so slightly when removing key blade from said cylinder, causing the PCM to think the key is still in the vehicle disabling keyless control. Per TSB lubricate all door lock cylinders and ignition lock cylinder with lubricant spray...and cross your fingers. (Okay I added that last part)
It happens even if I use the lock/unlock button on the door. All other doors lock/unlock. I can only get it to unlock if I pull the door handle on the inside.
 

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It happens even if I use the lock/unlock button on the door. All other doors lock/unlock. I can only get it to unlock if I pull the door handle on the inside.
Sure sounds like a door lock actuator to me. When mine started flaking out they would seem to work sporadically when it was colder...like in the morning or at night. In the heat of the day they wouldn't work. Eventually they stopped working all together.
 

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It's not just you. My 2015 has the same problem, and it's going into the dealership for a repair next week. The problem started intermittently about three months ago, but grew progressively worse. I took it into the dealership a few months ago, and sure enough the techs could not duplicate the condition. Great. Well, two months later and the driver door power lock has completely stopped working. I'm not going to risk scratching up the paint by pulling that little plastic piece off using the "key" to gain access to the lock cylinder, so each time I want into the car I have to climb into the passenger side, lean over and lift the inside door handle twice to release the door. Kind of a pain, but not worth nicking the paint on the driver door. Good luck!
 

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My 2014 with 52k miles just started not working on the driver door, unlock only. The key fob works and lock button works, but not the unlock button.
 
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