Joined
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412 Posts
Things you will need
- jack
- jack stands
- breaker bar
- ratchet
- torque wrench
- Sledge hammer
- regular hammer
- pry bar
- 35mm socket (36mm will work too)
- 15mm socket
- 13mm deep socket
- c clamp
- 3/4 inch socket
- 5/8 inch socket
- high temp bearing grease
- grease applicator (tooth brush or paint brush)
- drive shaft
- mechanic gloves (grease is messy)
- wire clothes hanger (not pictured)
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first remove center cap that is blocking your axle nut (35mm or 36mm will work too) IMPORTANT TORQUED TO 159lbs when replacing!!
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loosen your axle nut 3 or 4 turn should be fine, do the same for your lugs
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next is the brake caliper. you have two options you can either unbolt the piston (green) or the whole thing as one part (red) i find its easier to do the piston (GReen)then the bracket (Red)separately. they will both be 15mm sockets. Note you cannot use a deep socket for the top one as the strut will be in the way, so use a 10inch extension to get the top one.
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support the piston with a wire on the strut (close hanger works best)
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3 bolts that hold the wheel bearing in place. turn the wheel to get to these easier. they are 13mm only 2 are pictured (blue) the other is on the other side ..use a breaker bar!!
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once you get those bolts out the bearing will be stuck in the knuckle ..use a big screw driver to tap this out tap with a hammer all the way around....once you do that then finish unscrewing the axle nut ....next hit the axle with the sludge hammer until it loosens up enough to pull the old bearing out
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now we have to remove the top 2 bolts on the strut (MAKE SURE YOUR CALIPER IS SECURE!)
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take the nuts off they are 3/4inch socket bolts....then get your sludge hammer and smack the bolts until they come loose and pop out the other end....THIS WILL SEEM SCARY! make sure your car is on jack stands and the jack as a backup..... you will need to hit them with some force.
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pull the knuckle and you will have enough clearance to get the axle out of the opening
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i took out the strut from the top plate and supported my piston with the wire from my engine bay through the hole from the strut. unnecessary to do but i thought the extra room would help.
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now get your pry bar and get behind the end of the driveshaft and give it a good couple prys to pop the axle out of the trans
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install your new shaft and you all set...do the reverse to put it back together....for the strut bolts i find its easier to use a clamp to line up the holes(bottom first then top) and loosen the 3 bolts (under hood) that hold your strut in place for some more play in the strut.
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apply your high temp bearing grease to the new axle and inside of bearing, as well as the front and inside of the knuckle ...remember to torque your bolts to 52lbs and your axle nut to 159lbs and torque your lugs to 100lbs ...also NEVER get under the car with just a jack...you need jackstands for your safety!! goodluck
- jack
- jack stands
- breaker bar
- ratchet
- torque wrench
- Sledge hammer
- regular hammer
- pry bar
- 35mm socket (36mm will work too)
- 15mm socket
- 13mm deep socket
- c clamp
- 3/4 inch socket
- 5/8 inch socket
- high temp bearing grease
- grease applicator (tooth brush or paint brush)
- drive shaft
- mechanic gloves (grease is messy)
- wire clothes hanger (not pictured)
first remove center cap that is blocking your axle nut (35mm or 36mm will work too) IMPORTANT TORQUED TO 159lbs when replacing!!
loosen your axle nut 3 or 4 turn should be fine, do the same for your lugs
next is the brake caliper. you have two options you can either unbolt the piston (green) or the whole thing as one part (red) i find its easier to do the piston (GReen)then the bracket (Red)separately. they will both be 15mm sockets. Note you cannot use a deep socket for the top one as the strut will be in the way, so use a 10inch extension to get the top one.
support the piston with a wire on the strut (close hanger works best)
3 bolts that hold the wheel bearing in place. turn the wheel to get to these easier. they are 13mm only 2 are pictured (blue) the other is on the other side ..use a breaker bar!!
once you get those bolts out the bearing will be stuck in the knuckle ..use a big screw driver to tap this out tap with a hammer all the way around....once you do that then finish unscrewing the axle nut ....next hit the axle with the sludge hammer until it loosens up enough to pull the old bearing out
now we have to remove the top 2 bolts on the strut (MAKE SURE YOUR CALIPER IS SECURE!)
take the nuts off they are 3/4inch socket bolts....then get your sludge hammer and smack the bolts until they come loose and pop out the other end....THIS WILL SEEM SCARY! make sure your car is on jack stands and the jack as a backup..... you will need to hit them with some force.
pull the knuckle and you will have enough clearance to get the axle out of the opening
i took out the strut from the top plate and supported my piston with the wire from my engine bay through the hole from the strut. unnecessary to do but i thought the extra room would help.
now get your pry bar and get behind the end of the driveshaft and give it a good couple prys to pop the axle out of the trans
install your new shaft and you all set...do the reverse to put it back together....for the strut bolts i find its easier to use a clamp to line up the holes(bottom first then top) and loosen the 3 bolts (under hood) that hold your strut in place for some more play in the strut.
apply your high temp bearing grease to the new axle and inside of bearing, as well as the front and inside of the knuckle ...remember to torque your bolts to 52lbs and your axle nut to 159lbs and torque your lugs to 100lbs ...also NEVER get under the car with just a jack...you need jackstands for your safety!! goodluck
