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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys I need some help tracking down whats wrong. I put a new water pump on this weekend along with a new 160 degree thermostat. It was reading way hot at first and then I bled the system, now it's only at about a 1/3 maybe Im trying to pinpoint whats wrong. If its my thermostat stuck open, or my gage temperature sensor.. help please? I may or may not have a problem, I just dont think its getting upto full temp, or if it is is not reading.. Any pics of where your impala or caprices run with 160 thermostats? Thanks, Im just beat, I put a new water pump, optispark, plugs and plug wires (the hardest part), coil, O2 sensors on, and all new seals on this weekend. I now I just want this DONE!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Seriously Anyone? Where should I expect my needle to be with a new 160 stat and new coolant? Im trying to see if my new thermostat is functioning properly without taking my hoses and stat back out.. its reaching about 1/4 and taking it awhile to get there, but its cool out today and car was just idleing..
 

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Welcome to the forum , but hey it's only been 3 hours , chill a bit , give guys a chance to have breakast :eek:k3:
I'm sure you'll be helped soon enough :beer:
 

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Sorry man, I didn't see this or I would have replied earlier. Going up 1/3 of the gauge is perfectly fine. If it went higher before you could have had a small bubble of air then. When I did my water pump and bled it PROPERLY my coolant hasn't gone over 1/3, even in the summer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
31 views and no replies is what I was referring to. Im trying to get this done now, not later. But its nice to know that the trolls have had their breakfast and are online now.. Thanks for the useless comment none the less..
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sorry man, I didn't see this or I would have replied earlier. Going up 1/3 of the gauge is perfectly fine. If it went higher before you could have had a small bubble of air then. When I did my water pump and bled it PROPERLY my coolant hasn't gone over 1/3, even in the summer.[/QUI think you may be right, and I sure hope you are. I have tired bleeding my system twice now. Broke the stupid bleeder valve, so now im just doing it with the cap off.
 

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31 views and no replies is what I was referring to. Im trying to get this done now, not later. But its nice to know that the trolls have had their breakfast and are online now.. Thanks for the useless comment none the less..
Expecting a bunch of replys immediately isn't always going to happin. It's Sunday morning , give people a chance , and calling me a troll is like throwing water on a duck.
 

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I bleed it through the cap with a friend, actually. I have never had air come out of the bleeder screws using this method so ill keep doing it ;)
 

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31 views and no replies is what I was referring to. Im trying to get this done now, not later. But its nice to know that the trolls have had their breakfast and are online now.. Thanks for the useless comment none the less..
Chill bro. All our mods are trolls.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So if my oil is not milky when I change it and my mileage does not get any worse with the 160 stat then am I good? I was trying to upgrade, but dont want to screw up my mileage or my engine .. should I just put the 180 stat back in?
 

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I've had a hand full of LT1 caprices, when ever I opened up the cooling system I then bled the system by raising the front end slightly to make sure the air would rise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Your oil should never be milky and it wont be at a higher chance of being milky by using a lower temp stat.
Actually Yes I DO have a higher chance of my oil becoming milky if the oil doesnt get hot enough to burn of any moisture it may get it. I know my oil shouldnt be milky, That's why I asked if this would happen with the 160 stat, not saying it will, but the risk IS there. I guess i'll just leave it in and check my oil and gas mileage.. Ans next time I will not question the consensus my own research has unveiled, and post a thread for some quick answers.. Thanks
 

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needle sits real low with 160. I have one but am not really convinced they are that great
 

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Unless you live in a very hot climate, your better off with the stock T-Stat. plus running a 160 t-stat you might want to get a Herter tune to take full advantage of it. If your not getting up to operational temp then you will start to see the milky residue under the oil cap. That is from driving the car that doesn't get to the proper temp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I'm just curious as to why the OP bothered coming here if he just planned on being a cunt to everyone trying to help.
Well it wasnt something that I "planned on doing", but I dont take attitude for anyone on here or anywhere else.. Im just curious why you're even posting in MY thread with your non sense. And no one has helped me except maybe Dwanye helping me to understand why my stat is doing this..and recognizing I have a legitmate concern without making me feel like im a complete newbie or an ass.. I believe I know just as much as the next guy on this subject, and still no real answers. I'll consider this the next time I make a public post..
 

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if you want to get a tune I would suggest someone good instead of Herter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Lol Herter no good I take it? But whats exactly the point of getting a tune for the 160 stat and having the the fan turn on temps lowered when Im already concerned about not getting upto full operational temp?
 

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the idea is they tweak the timing tables to compliment the new lower temps.

Far as Herter he is hugely popular but back when I used him I had a few tunes so bad the car was not drivable and that was when the car was much nearer to stock. He has broken a lot of pistons with too much timing and not enough fuel.

Basically once he got popular the only cars he bothers to put effort into are ones that will get attention.
 
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