Did you bleed the heater core as well? Are your fans working? You've verified both fans kick on? Can you provide the part number of the thermostat you purchased?

Not saying you did anything wrong. Just need a little more information.

 

Understood of course, so unfortunately I did not bleed the heater core. I'm familiar with the backflushing procedure but I did not have the proper equipment. I wasn't sure if just a plain Ole water hose would work to accomplish this. If you can give me some tips on bleeding the heater core I would try to do as soon as I have some time.

Both my fans are working and I have e verified they both come on. I will try to get the part number for you. I will reply to the others in different post thank you for the help everyone!

 

General rules of overheating:

• Overheats only in slow traffic, but is fine at highway speed: Not enough air through radiator (check for blockage, fan operation, fan shrouds, etc.);
• Overheats in all conditions: Not enough radiator (check coolant level, water pump operation, thermostat, hoses, etc.).

 

2014 Impala LTZ 2.5L

Moved from Miami to Texas. In Miami I never had Temperature issues. When I got to Texas my water pump gave out and I had to replace that so I decided to replace the pump and the thermostat since I was already there. The water pump I bought from Rock Auto and the thermostat I bought it directly at a chevy stealership.

After installing both components I made sure to bleed the system several different ways so that bubbles or cavitation are not present in the cooling system. for some reason my cooling system is getting a little higher than what I'm used to. In Miami my coolant temp never went above 214F. Now my coolant system reaches up to 230F on different occasions especially if I've been driving around all day. There are absolutely no leaks I've checked all hoses with my mirror and I went as far as changing the original reservoir cap. I got frustrated and returned the thermostat I bought back to the dealer the exact same day and got another 1 claiming it was faulty and not opening. 2nd one did the exact same thing. (The 2 thermostats i bought do not indicate on the housing what the opening temperatures are)

Its been a while now since I've been running that 2nd thermostat I bought and I've noticed that between Rock Auto and summit racing they have cooler opening thermostats. The OEM GM one on rock auto does not specify a Temperature but the other brands have 180F, 182F, 195F and they all claim OE Specified temperature Lol. On summit racing there is one that is as low as 160F.

The reasoning in my head is that assuming they sold me the 195F and it increases at least 30+ Degrees and if I accelerate pretty roughly at high way speeds the temperature will drop significantly. I've seen it go down to 199F. if I buy the 160F on summit racing and it increases 30+ and it gets to roughly 200F and it never goes above that temp, but the cooling fans are commanded on at 210F and they never come on is that bad? what temperature rating thermostat would you think would be the best one to try? I've also considered some type of clog in the system but I'm praying that is not it.

I’d bet you have an air pocket in the engine coolant system - or an issue with the fans. An air pocket can cause the coolant sensor to not operat

How did you fill the coolant system? How did you bleed the system several different ways?

On a warm day, the left radiator cooling fan should operate. Whenever the a/c system is turned on - the second radiator cooling fan should operate (which is a variable speed fan motor).

Since neither fan comes on - something is wrong. When you changed the water pump and thermostat , are you sure you reconnected all wiring and connectors?

I have a 2014 Impala 2LTZ - purchased new (3.6L engine).

 

So the way I filled the system was exactly how all data stated to fill it. I do not remember word for work right now but I believe it was something a long the lines of add coolant run it for like 5 to 10 min till coolant goes down. Turn of the car, add more coolant, turn on the car till the coolant goes down and I did this until coolant did not move down anymore. I also opened the air bleeder vent Tube that goes from the Degas bottle to the engine block and then lastly i Inclined the car with the nose up and I had the reservoir cap off with the car on hoping any trapped bubbles would make their way up to the reservoir. I've checked the hoses pretty well squeezed them a bit while the car has been at 228-230F and I see no apparent leaks. My water pump is definitely spinning and my thermostat is not an electrical one. It just mechanically opens with coolant temperature. I know 1000% everything is connected.

You all made me think of something I was curious about. I had replaced my radiator fans some time ago I believe it was after the thermostat and pump. I think this issue was still present but the fans on this care is 9 blades on the right and 7 blades on the left. The fan that I bought at autozone had 7 blades on the right and 9 on the left. I didn't think that would make a huge difference but I just thought yall should know that. What do yall think? I can pull up the all data procedure for filling the cooling system if needed I'm just stuck at work now and can't do much

I'm not sure what the problem could be. What should be my first area to attack?

 

The top fan is the original the bottom fan Is the autozone one.

 

It is possible that the aftermarket radiator fan(s) do not operate and move the amount of air required by the OEM.

I’m a little confused - do the new fans operate once the engine warms? Does the secondary fan come on when the a/c is turned on?

 

Thank you all for the replies. I'm still convinced something is wrong with my cooling system I know with yalls help I can pinpoint the area of attack before I do something crazy lol

 

I'm assuming you filled the cooling system with Dexcool and not something else.
Mixing coolant types is bad mojo.

Park nose up on a steep incline or jack the nose up till the front tires are about a foot and a half to two feet off the ground and put cribbing under the tires.
Put a Lisle 24680 funnel or something similar on the filler neck. There are a half dozen of these so you don't have to buy Lisle.
Start the engine, turn the heater temp controls all the way to hot, and fill the funnel.
Wait till the radiator fans come on and the level in the funnel stabilizes. If it sucks it dry pour more Dexcool in.
Close the filler cap and take her for a ride.

 

I'm assuming you filled the cooling system with Dexcool and not something else.
Mixing coolant types is bad mojo.

Park nose up on a steep incline or jack the nose up till the front tires are about a foot and a half to two feet off the ground and put cribbing under the tires.
Put a Lisle 24680 funnel or something similar on the filler neck. There are a half dozen of these so you don't have to buy Lisle.
Start the engine, turn the heater temp controls all the way to hot, and fill the funnel.
Wait till the radiator fans come on and the level in the funnel stabilizes. If it sucks it dry pour more Dexcool in.
Close the filler cap and take her for a ride.

Absolutely positively only dexcool and nothing else. it is the prestone 50/50 Mix. Funny that you mention a bleeding kit because i recieved this one in the mail a week ago and still havent been able to use it. Amazon.com: HORUSDY No-Spill Coolant Funnel Kit with Valve Switch, Radiator Bleeder Funnel Kit, Universal Fitment Applicable to Any Vehicle (15 Piece) : Automotive

I will definitely give the incline another shot with the funnel on the filler neck to see if that helps the gravity push out any bubbles. just waiting till Saturday when I'm off to be able to do it. I've seen any read that 230F is not a big deal sometimes but to me it is especially since I do not remember seeing it that high once upon a time.

 

I had a gurgling sound in my cooling system after coolant replacement (2004 Impala LS, 3.8L). It would get hotter than normal under certain conditions but generally was ok wrt temperature. At some point (maybe advice in this forum?), I learned of a bleeder on top of the engine. With a cold engine, simply crack open the bleeder and then start the car. As the engine warms and circulates coolant, any air in the system works around to that high point at the bleeder and is released up and out. When the engine is sufficiently warm and coolant begins emanating out the bleeder, then you can close the bleeder. Since then, no air in the system, no gurgling sounds, and no anomalous warming....not saying you have the same issue, but just wanted to share in case you do....

 

Could i

I had an 05 that had that screw and an 08 that didn't.

When I flushed and filled the 08, I first completely filled the radiator. Started the car, heat on full, and added coolant to the radiator until it stopped sucking it in. After it stopped sucking it in, I shut off the car, capped the radiator and topped off the reservoir to the cold line. Started it back up and let it reach operating temperature. Fans kicked on. Air bubbles kept coming until they didn't. Shut it down and let it cool completely. Opened the radiator cap and added coolant as needed. Wasn't much. Capped it again and ran it to hot again with the heat on. On the third go, I left the funnel in the radiator and filled it. Eventually the bubbles completely stopped. Capped it, took it around the block and made sure to hit a few bumps in the poorly maintained road. Temp went where it was supposed to and no higher. Heat was hot. AC was cold. So was the beer when I got back. Never had an issue afterwards.

 

Thank you all for the input. I will definitely keep all this in mind. I noticed that on rock auto they have this 2014 CHEVROLET IMPALA 2.5L L4 Coolant Air Bleeder | RockAuto

But i can not for the life of me figure where this is suppose to be or if its suppose to replace anything. i looked high and low and still have not been successful. My original cap says 20Psi and the Motorad one that i bought says 19Psi. I have also noticed that whether hot or cold my coolant level seems to stay at the same level with no fluctuation. Well, on Saturday i will lift the car a good 2 feet in the air with a funnel on the filler neck of the reservoir and fill the whole damn thing up with coolant to see if i have any luck. if that doesnt work do yall think i should try either switching the fan blades around or changing the thermostat? id like to have the OEM fan blades but they are 140 for each one. unfortunately i do not have that kind of money to spend on that right now.

 

2013-2023 GM Engine Coolant Thermostat Housing 25201447 GM | GMPartsDirect.com

2013-2023 GM part # 25201447 - Engine Coolant Thermostat Housing

www.gmpartsdirect.com

This is the thermostat that is currently in my car. it looks identical to the one i took off which i do have a picture of it as well but i just noticed another one that actually says 185F, while this one does not specify any temp.

 

185 Degrees Engine Coolant Thermostat with Water Inlet 19114374 GM | GMPartsDirect.com

19114374 - 185 Degrees Engine Coolant Thermostat with Water Inlet

www.gmpartsdirect.com

This is the one that actually says the temp but there is not a "fitment" tab underneath that list my vehicle like it does for the other one

 

I'm shocked this weak l had 2 impalas a 2012 and a 2013 with apparently bad water pumps 3.6 engines... Didn't see any signs of leakage at weep hole ...l did see antifreeze blowing back on chain cover and on frame...very odd ...bearing felt good no roughness. So l checked the pump mounting bolts... On both cars they had 2 and one 3 loose mounting bolts.. Tighten them up and the issue is gone on both..Crazy l must admit l will always check now before replacing any pump.
Sorry had to add that
Your problem should be solved simply by running your car with the cars heater on full and fan on high
Those rad fans are differently backwards... Maybe grab some stock ones at a junk yard.
Lesson here don't fix what isn't broken ...like stat

 

2014 Impala LTZ 2.5L

Moved from Miami to Texas. In Miami I never had Temperature issues. When I got to Texas my water pump gave out and I had to replace that so I decided to replace the pump and the thermostat since I was already there. The water pump I bought from Rock Auto and the thermostat I bought it directly at a chevy stealership.

After installing both components I made sure to bleed the system several different ways so that bubbles or cavitation are not present in the cooling system. for some reason my cooling system is getting a little higher than what I'm used to. In Miami my coolant temp never went above 214F. Now my coolant system reaches up to 230F on different occasions especially if I've been driving around all day. There are absolutely no leaks I've checked all hoses with my mirror and I went as far as changing the original reservoir cap. I got frustrated and returned the thermostat I bought back to the dealer the exact same day and got another 1 claiming it was faulty and not opening. 2nd one did the exact same thing. (The 2 thermostats i bought do not indicate on the housing what the opening temperatures are)

Its been a while now since I've been running that 2nd thermostat I bought and I've noticed that between Rock Auto and summit racing they have cooler opening thermostats. The OEM GM one on rock auto does not specify a Temperature but the other brands have 180F, 182F, 195F and they all claim OE Specified temperature Lol. On summit racing there is one that is as low as 160F.

The reasoning in my head is that assuming they sold me the 195F and it increases at least 30+ Degrees and if I accelerate pretty roughly at high way speeds the temperature will drop significantly. I've seen it go down to 199F. if I buy the 160F on summit racing and it increases 30+ and it gets to roughly 200F and it never goes above that temp, but the cooling fans are commanded on at 210F and they never come on is that bad? what temperature rating thermostat would you think would be the best one to try? I've also considered some type of clog in the system but I'm praying that is not it.

Hey

You need to use a 195 thermastat and you can check it by putting in a pan of water with a termoneter and see if opens at 195 before you install it. Also check to see if your fans do come on when the
air is running in the car to see if the fans are not faulty. So you wont over heat. Definitly use dexcol antifreeze and turn the heater on when installing the coolant. Check to see if the level of
fluid has dropped after it has been filled.

 

Hey

You need to use a 195 thermastat and you can check it by putting in a pan of water with a termoneter and see if opens at 195 before you install it. Also check to see if your fans do come on when the
air is running in the car to see if the fans are not faulty. So you wont over heat. Definitly use dexcol antifreeze and turn the heater on when installing the coolant. Check to see if the level of
fluid has dropped after it has been filled.

If your fans dont ever kick on then you have a problem,check for voltages comming in at the connector and if you have it there then your fans are the issue. Your overheating at idle and the fans
dont work. but your good when air is flowing.

 

OP mentions in response #5 that they have verified both fans do kick on.

 

Same thing happened to me when I purchased the car new. Air in the system. The dealer had to install some kind of valve coming into the heater core. But that didn't cure it 100%. Eventually they did have to jack up the front end and let the system bleed that way. Cause if you notice the hoses coming out of the heater core at the firewall sit higher than the radiator. Bad design by GM. That's why air keeps getting trapped. You'll get it sorted by jacking up the front end. It's just a pain in the a$$ to have to bleed it that way.

 

Simple "trick" before installing new thermostat is to suspend in pan of water on stove until water boils (212 F) and see if it opens. Having a handheld temperature reader is invaluable for reading AC vent temp and coolant.

 

Post # 23

 

So I'm currently doing the incline with the coolant t beeding system on. I let the car reach operating temperature of 226-230 and a lot of coolant filled the funnel so I felt it was over filled I took that amount out and then relieved pressure and the coolant t dropped significantly so I added some coolant back in right up to the fill line. During this time the heater and both fans are on at full blast and I don't see any bubbles. The liquid just rises and lowers and the ac air is coming out hot and the temperature is still reaching 230. When I accelerate it to 2.5k It drops down to 208.

 

Had to stop due to some errands that I had to run and riding around now. When I'm stopped and not moving it goes up to 226F. I haven't seen 230F again but the moment I start driving it drops down significantly to like about 208 possibly 200 if I accelerate it hard enough. I wish I knew what was wrong. I still believe there is air in the system some how. And I had it inclined pretty high I'm going to have to drain the whole system and re fill it to see if it was just a hiccup and do a flow test on the radiator. I just hate that I Barely have time

 

Sorry for the back to back post but not to mention I'm also having an AC concern with the car as well.

 

What you're describing is normal behaviour.
Idling or near idling in heavy stop and go traffic will cause the engine temp to climb to 225° or thereabouts. As long as it stops climbing there's nothing to worry about.
Dropping to 210° or less once you start moving is normal as well.

 

Thank you for your reply Hatzie. I guess i shouldn't think too much of it then. I just remember my coolant temp never really reaching 220s period that's what made me begin to worry in the first place. I guess my next mission is to try to switch the fan blades around so they are in the correct spots and then later on at 150k miles I'll do a complete coolant flush. Thank you all for your help.