[thewubs]

Some condensation in the exhaust is normal, especially in colder temps. You only need to worry if its a lot of steam, and it doesn't stop after a few minutes.

Yeah, I appreciate the clarification. The amount of "smoke" (vapor rather) was of no alarm to me. Again, thanks for your help here. We'll see how it goes in a couple days! k3:

 

[thewubs]

Crazy massive necropost here - it was definitely both the UIM/LIM gaskets and they were both FRIED. I used the revised Dorman UIM (which, according to NAPA, Advance Auto Parts, ect., were the new OEM parts *shrug*) and Felpro gaskets. The kit I ordered off rockauto included the UIM/LIM and respective gaskets, a new PCV valve and parts, and a revised EGR stovepipe. I changed the oil/oil filter, drained and flushed the Dexcool rubbish, and refilled with Prestone green antifreeze mixed with distilled water by me. Alas, no more coolant leakage! :cheers:

However, it is now throwing p0753/p0758/p1860 codes - all relating to transmission solenoids. It also seems to be stuck in one single gear - google says it goes into a "limp mode" and stays in 2nd or 3rd gear until the issue is fixed. It was throwing NONE of these at ANY point prior to me replacing the aforementioned parts, ergo I am inclined to believe it is not actually an issue with the solenoid as the codes would imply. I checked the 20-pin connector that plugs into the transaxle, and it looked reasonably clean, which was a suggestion I found via google as well.

Help! Fixed intake gaskets now trans is throwing codes • GBodyForum.com - 1978-1988 GM G-Body Cars & Community

that is a link to a guy who is having the same exact problem as I am, 100% to a tee.

Any suggestions, guys?

 

[EACornell]

Coolant and oil mixing, gasket leak?

I have a similar issue. Not sure entirely but I'm pretty sure it is the intake manifold gasket either being cracked, warped, etc..I do all my own work to avoid labor fees and so I know how to repeat it again if a problem reoccurs. Only thing is, I'm not 110% sure though if it IS in fact the gasket. All I know for sure after checking the dipstick is that my coolant and oil are mixing. I just filled the coolant completely. Mind you, the car has been sitting for about 5-6 months and hasn't been started. I just shoveled off all the snow and got it running again today. Any input would be great before I pop the hood tomorrow and start working on it and fixing a problem that is not the problem. On top of that, GM said it should only take about 20~ minutes with proper equipment, which, I am able to get my hands on about 70% of that if need be. I will NOT take it into a shop because it will cost more to have done when I can just do it. I really don't want my fiance driving this daily until it is 100% fixed. And with the access I do have to the right equipment and what my buddy told me on the phone, this will take at least 2 days because I do not live at the house that the tools are at and we can't be there without anyone there. So I expect this job to take 2 days. Anything anyone has to say would be great before I "fix" a non-existant problem. :bang:

 

[g25racer]

You can see a bit of coolant drizzling out of the manifold, but it was almost "shooting out" with much more force when I had my friend step on the gas. The important thing really though is being able to show WHERE the leak is coming from, which might help narrow it down a bit.

2000 Impala w/ 3.8L motor coolant leak location - YouTube

(ps - turn your volume down, I guess I was yelling at my phone :lol

To be honest this sounds like the bleeder valve in the thermostat housing is open. To anyone else?

 

[g25racer]

I have a similar issue. Not sure entirely but I'm pretty sure it is the intake manifold gasket either being cracked, warped, etc..I do all my own work to avoid labor fees and so I know how to repeat it again if a problem reoccurs. Only thing is, I'm not 110% sure though if it IS in fact the gasket. All I know for sure after checking the dipstick is that my coolant and oil are mixing. I just filled the coolant completely. Mind you, the car has been sitting for about 5-6 months and hasn't been started. I just shoveled off all the snow and got it running again today. Any input would be great before I pop the hood tomorrow and start working on it and fixing a problem that is not the problem. On top of that, GM said it should only take about 20~ minutes with proper equipment, which, I am able to get my hands on about 70% of that if need be. I will NOT take it into a shop because it will cost more to have done when I can just do it. I really don't want my fiance driving this daily until it is 100% fixed. And with the access I do have to the right equipment and what my buddy told me on the phone, this will take at least 2 days because I do not live at the house that the tools are at and we can't be there without anyone there. So I expect this job to take 2 days. Anything anyone has to say would be great before I "fix" a non-existant problem. :bang:

20min to fix it? Ya right ... maybe if you do a quick bare bones job.

Honestly if you have to do an LIM which, it very well sounds like you need to (I do as well), you should go the extra mile.

Believe me if your gonna do this job ... the last thing your wanna do is tear it apart again.

I went above and beyond with the parts to be replaced. I spent about $300 or so on rockauto for this job.

I am having replaced: LIM gasket, Complete UIM kit, EGR gasket, Valve cover gaskets, Thermostat (180deg), Coolant elbows(alum), IAC valve, plugs, and wires. And to be honest I should have bought new head gaskets as well. Another $50 and I would have a totally rebuilt top end.

 

[g25racer]

Seriously? It's a pretty standard tool to have. Maybe you can rent one from an auto parts store? If you do find coolant in the cylinders, yes you will need to replace the plugs. The back ones are a bit of a pain, but not that bad. If you unbolt the front engine mounts (dogbones), you can rock the engine forward for extra room.

Honestly I wouldn't recommend using one from an autoparts store. People who rent them abuse them therefor they can become inaccurate. I have heard of plenty of people breaking head bolts off due to a way off torque wrench that they rented. Spend a $100 and buy a gearwrench :beer:

Grr just noticed this thread is old. :bang: