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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I took the car on a road trip yesterday (100 miles round trip) with the A/C on and found that as long as I was driving along on the highway the temp gauge stayed right below the middle. When I stopped in traffic it crept up to the right of middle, then the fan came on and it would (eventually) drop back down to where it was originally.

Is this normal?

Is there any way to make the fans come on at a lower temperature?
 

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Mikel since you repalced the pump, did you get the PS with a new reservoir or use your old one? Just curious. On the temperature thing, I assume the system has been bled properly?
 

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I took the car on a road trip yesterday (100 miles round trip) with the A/C on and found that as long as I was driving along on the highway the temp gauge stayed right below the middle. When I stopped in traffic it crept up to the right of middle, then the fan came on and it would (eventually) drop back down to where it was originally.

Is this normal?
That's what I observe on my w-bodies. So I assume it's normal. At least, it makes sense.

When you're driving, you're forcing air thru the radiator. When you're sitting still, the radiator doesn't work so well, so the temp goes up which causes the fans to kick in. As long as the fans kick in, and the needle stays out of the red, it should be OK.



Is there any way to make the fans come on at a lower temperature?
[SPECULATION]I'd guess the temp points could be moved around in the PCM, using the same tools used to tune the motor. [/SPECULATION]

But keep in mind, these points were selected in engineering, taking multiple factors into consideration. So you're potentially moving them away from optimal points. For example, if an engine runs too cool, such as when the thermostat has been removed (or is stuck open), the motor is running at less than optimal temp. Gas mileage may go down. And wear can increase because the internal parts of the motor do not heat up and expand to their optimal dimensions.

So, IMO, as long as the fans are coming on, and the needle is not getting in the red, I'd shy away from messing with it. YMMV.

Doug


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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
richardgriese - I got a new (reman) PS pump with the reservoir. I didn't want to mess with trying to get the old one off and maybe breaking it then having to go try to find just the reservoir or swapping my new non-reservoir pump for one that had it. And yes, I've bled it twice so far and both times nothing but fluid came out - no air.

plano-doug - I see your point. But I've got 2 other cars, on both of them the temp gauge will go up to a certain spot and will stay there. Well now that I think of it one has a mechanical fan so let's ignore that one. The other one the temp goes up to about 1/3 of the way and stays there, I can hear the fan kicking on a off every once in a while, especially when the A/C is on. But otherwise the temp doesn't move - I've even checked it with an ODB II reader.

I guess as long as the needle doesn't get any closer to the red I'm going to try to not worry about it. It's tough though, I've never had a street car that runs this hot or has a temp gauge that fluctuates as much as this one. My wife drives the car mostly and if it gets too hot and she gets stuck somewhere I'll never hear the end of it. She was driving my Mitsubishi the day the timing belt broke, she was stuck at a gas station in the middle of nowhere for a few hours and man I was in trouble for weeks for that one...
 

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plano-doug - I see your point. But I've got 2 other cars, on both of them the temp gauge will go up to a certain spot and will stay there. Well now that I think of it one has a mechanical fan so let's ignore that one. The other one the temp goes up to about 1/3 of the way and stays there, I can hear the fan kicking on a off every once in a while, especially when the A/C is on. But otherwise the temp doesn't move - I've even checked it with an ODB II reader.

I guess as long as the needle doesn't get any closer to the red I'm going to try to not worry about it. It's tough though, I've never had a street car that runs this hot or has a temp gauge that fluctuates as much as this one. My wife drives the car mostly and if it gets too hot and she gets stuck somewhere I'll never hear the end of it. She was driving my Mitsubishi the day the timing belt broke, she was stuck at a gas station in the middle of nowhere for a few hours and man I was in trouble for weeks for that one...
Hi, Mikelbeck,

FWIW, when I was having a cat problem with my son's 02 Impala, his motor was running much hotter, per the gauge. It wasn't in the red, but versus the typical fully warm position of ~11-11:30, the needle was up well past half way, nearer 1 o'clock. And that was cause for concern for me. So I'm wondering if you might be having an issue of some sort.

If your OBD2 scanner is showing it staying around or above ~210°F, it may be running too hot and need some further diagnosis. (That is, it needs more experise than I have
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OTOH, on hot days, I've seen them run past halfway, but still well below the red.

(BTW, after getting the cat fixed, the needle went back to 11-11:30 on my son's car.)

Rereading your post, if your needle is staying at 1/3 the way up, that's about the 11-11:30 point I describe. So that's about normal from my experience.


Doug

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Hi, Mikelbeck,

FWIW, when I was having a cat problem with my son's 02 Impala, his motor was running much hotter, per the gauge. It wasn't in the red, but versus the typical fully warm position of ~11-11:30, the needle was up well past half way, nearer 1 o'clock. And that was cause for concern for me. So I'm wondering if you might be having an issue of some sort.

If your OBD2 scanner is showing it staying around or above ~210°F, it may be running too hot and need some further diagnosis. (That is, it needs more experise than I have
)

OTOH, on hot days, I've seen them run past halfway, but still well below the red.

(BTW, after getting the cat fixed, the needle went back to 11-11:30 on my son's car.)

Rereading your post, if your needle is staying at 1/3 the way up, that's about the 11-11:30 point I describe. So that's about normal from my experience.


Doug

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When I said 1/3 of the way up I was talking about my other call - a Mitsubishi.

The Chevy normally is right before the halfway point - between 11 and 12 o'clock. When stopped in traffic it goes to the other side of halfway - between 12 and 1 o'clock. Then the fans kick on and it goes back to between 11 and 12.

When you say you had your "cat fixed" what do you mean? Replaced?
 

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When I said 1/3 of the way up I was talking about my other call - a Mitsubishi.

The Chevy normally is right before the halfway point - between 11 and 12 o'clock. When stopped in traffic it goes to the other side of halfway - between 12 and 1 o'clock. Then the fans kick on and it goes back to between 11 and 12.

When you say you had your "cat fixed" what do you mean? Replaced?
Yes, I had a shop weld in a new catalytic converter. The old one was clogged.

I can see that contributing to the engine running hotter - a lot of the heat off the motor goes out the exhaust pipe, so a clogged cat would help hold the heat in.

I've observed in my Impalas just what you described. The needle is usually between 11 and 12, but, on hot days with the AC on, will climb above that when the car is idling, then the fans kick in a pull it down.

It was when I didn't see it dropping below 12, as was the case with the clogged cat, that I became concerned.

Doug

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My wife's 2003 3.4L is pissing coolant all over the driveway - but only when it's running. I tried to find where the leak is coming from, it's running along some brackets under the engine and dripping off the back. I jacked it up and started it and I can see a drip that looks like it's coming from behind the idler pulley, or right in that area. Is there something there that could be leaking? Or is it coming from the water pump weep hole and just running along something else and looks like it's coming from there?

It looks like the water pump is kind of an easy job but I don't want to change it if it's not gonna fix this problem.
I bet my life that you're freeze plug is either leaking or missing. Don't take it to a shop and spend a ton of money getting it fixed. Anyone that can tighten a bolt can install these rubber freeze plugs that you simply insert into the hole then tighten the bolt in the middle of the rubber cap. As you tighten the bolt the rubber spreads from the back side locking it in. Some say they don't trust them, but I put my reputation on it that using the rubber freeze plug expander will last just as long if not longer then a factory or aftermarket freeze plug. Plus they're way easier to install especially in tight spaces. Let me know if I'm wrong, but I'm confident that's your issue
 

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My wife's 2003 3.4L is pissing coolant all over the driveway - but only when it's running. I tried to find where the leak is coming from, it's running along some brackets under the engine and dripping off the back. I jacked it up and started it and I can see a drip that looks like it's coming from behind the idler pulley, or right in that area. Is there something there that could be leaking? Or is it coming from the water pump weep hole and just running along something else and looks like it's coming from there?

It looks like the water pump is kind of an easy job but I don't want to change it if it's not gonna fix this problem.
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JDMAuto1988,
Yeah, you are responding to posts from 2014....nothing wrong with that. Anyone coming across the thread can get good info. But don't expect a response from the original posters. FYI....
 
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