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MYAAAAAAAHHH
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63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So today has been a nightmare while trying to replace my rear brakes. I'm kind of broke atm with the holidays so I decided to try and do my brakes myself with some help from my pops.

I'm gonna fast track here but my trouble started when I finished putting everything back together. The passenger side went smoothly but I do notice that with the new pads and rotors(since no one wanted to turn them) the rotor and brakes rub a bit. I figured this would be the case. With the driver side it is a completely different story. When I tighten the top slider pin the rotor doesn't turn and is locked up or to tight to move. When I loosen it a bit it will turn but the rotor is still hard to rotate but free. Is this just a case of overtighten? The top slider pin doesn't appear to be screwed to where its suppose to be. Sorry no pics. Maybe a bracket is bent? Can I drive with the slider pin not on as tight as possible?

Are the slider pins suppose to be torqued to a certain ft lbs?

Please help as my car only has 3 legs at the moment.

2008 Impala LT. Rear brakes.


Also, is the a way to tighten the emergency brake so the rotors are not so difficult to get on?
 

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Super Moderator
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10,954 Posts
Welcome to the forum Steve.


First off. What kind of rear emergency brake system to you have. Is it the kind that operates a lever on the rear of the caliper or the kind that has some small brake shoes inside the rotor. ?

If it's the lever type you can rent a tool from Autozone or O'Reillys ( I think those are the places, as I am in Canada) and wind the piston back into the caliper. DO NOT push these types back as it will damage the E brake operation. They MUST be wound in.

If it's the type with the small brake shoes inside the rotor then make sure you press the caliper piston all the way back into the caliper.

Before doing either of these make sure there is enough room for the fluid in the master cylinder.
Many people WRONGLY add fluid to the master thinking it's low. Unless it's leaking, low fluid in the master cylinder is an indication of brake wear. When you press or move the pistons back into the calipers if someone has added fluid, then it will spew out of the master, not only making a mess, but brake fluid is the best known paint remover on the planet.
If you do not have a means to press the piston back into the caliper, the above mentioned places will have that tool as well.
Or, a C clamp with a block of wood will work.

Once you have done the above install the new pads with the pistons "in" onto the calipers. There will be LOTS of room for the rotor to move at that point. Make sure the slide pins are lubricated with a silicone grease and they slide easily. Put the caliper back on and I think the torque is 26ft lbs. ( pretty snug with a 3/8 ratchet).

As for E brake adjustment. If it's the lever type on the back of the caliper then once you've wound it in using the tool, and pumped the brakes a couple times, it's adjusted. If its the type with the small shoes inside the rotor then, with the caliper off, and the rotor on square and all the way, you should be able to spin the rotor freely. There is an adjuster wheel inside that you can spread the shoes out with. Wind that out until you can just hear them touching the the drum part of the rotor and then back it off a little at a time until you cant hear them.

Hope this makes sense.

Let us know how you make out.
 
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