Impala Forums banner
1 - 20 of 24 Posts

· Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,947 Posts
Drilled is BAD dimpled and or slotted is OK but not the magic some will lead you to believe and will contribute to pad wear and more brake dust. Ceramic pads make that dust less visible because it is lighter color again though not magical.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
306 Posts
I'd be happy with either of these. I would and will do drilled rotors when mine wear down. I'm not sure what is the objection to drilled rotors. My experience with drilled rotors is they work great and last as well as solid rotors. If you were racing with them, you'd want to change them often as they will crack around the holes. Even then I've never see any completely fail. I think a street driven car with occasional hard braking will have no problems. At the worst, I think you'd have to check frequently for cracks and perhaps change them out more often than solid rotors. To me they are worth it in a street driven car.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
742 Posts
  • Like
Reactions: eugenet15

· Super Moderator
Joined
·
12,439 Posts
I was always interested in drilled rotors thinking that they'd help reduce the heat and thereby reduce "warping". However, after doing some research, most seem to say that they cause more problems than they are worth. I've read that they actually don't reduce temperatures either - in fact they increase the temperature of the rotors... Also, apparently, drilled rotors on high end performance cars aren't really "drilled" - they are cast with holes already in them which doesn't cause structural integrity issues like drilling holes in rotors after they were produced.

Here is a great read on the subject:
http://www.6crew.com/forum/showthread.php?9405-Drilled-Slotted-Rotors-the-good-the-bad-and-the-ugly

Bottom line is that they seem to be more for looks than performance and that they tend to have more issues than non-drilled rotors. Again, at least from what I've read from the "experts".

EDIT: Here is another good, easier to read article about this topic - and also explains that "warped" rotors aren't actually warped:
http://automotivethinker.com/brakes-2/rotors-blank-vs-cross-drilled-vs-slotted-and-warping/

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

· Registered
Joined
·
191 Posts
Ive had the first set you listed, and loved them. Also, the same seller I used ( fast ). Once they get broke in they work very good. Breaking them in is VERY important. They will give you a Breakin Sequence to follow after installing them.

They looked great too.

I had them on an O5 impala, and getting them for my 2011 impala soon.. Only thing is the current rotors already look brand new.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
650 Posts
I had a set of Brembo rotors that i think i had turned once and lasted for a while. I think why rotors warp is cheap ones are made of two different metals that expand and contract at different rates..
 

· Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,947 Posts
Warped often aren't warped atall but rather deposits from cheap pads.

Maybe it was covered but drilling does not run cooler, air isn't going to make the 90degree turns to go through the holes and the reduced weight means more heat in a lower mass so temps will be higher if anything.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
650 Posts
Maybe it was covered but drilling does not run cooler, air isn't going to make the 90degree turns to go through the holes
I don't think drilling holes or slotting is for cooling, this may be a secondary function, the ancillary function of drilling holes or slots is to remove gas and debris caused by the pads on the rotors that causes inefficient braking.
 

· Super Moderator
Joined
·
12,439 Posts
But if you read the posts I linked to above, modern brake pads no longer produce the "gasses" that they used to many, many years ago, so drilled/slotted rotors don't even perform that function anymore.

From the link above:

Then from Grassroots Motorsports:
QUOTE
"Crossdrilling your rotors might look neat, but what is it really doing for you? Well, unless your car is using brake pads from the '40s and 50s, not a whole lot. Rotors were first drilled because early brake pad materials gave off gasses when heated to racing temperatures, a process known as "gassing out." ...It was an effective solution, but today's friction materials do not exhibit the some gassing out phenomenon as the early pads. Contrary to popular belief, they don't lower temperatures. (In fact, by removing weight from the rotor, they can actually cause temperatures to increase a little.) These holes create stress risers that allow the rotor to crack sooner, and make a mess of brake pads--sort of like a cheese grater rubbing against them at every stop. Want more evidence? Look at NASCAR or F1. You would think that if drilling holes in the rotor was the hot ticket, these teams would be doing it...Slotting rotors, on the other hand, might be a consideration if your sanctioning body allows for it. Cutting thin slots across the face of the rotor can actually help to clean the face of the brake pads over time, helping to reduce the glazing often found during high-speed use which can lower the coefficient of friction. While there may still be a small concern over creating stress risers in the face of the rotor, if the slots are shallow and cut properly, the trade-off appears to be worth the risk. (Have you looked at a NASCAR rotor lately?)



I also agree about "warped" rotors not actually being warped. What people call "warped" rotors are just rotors with deposits "baked into" them from the brake pad material... From the second link in my post above:



So what really happens when the rotor is “warped”?

When you’re on the brakes and there’s a pulsing sensation or vibration, we typical call this situation warped rotors. Surprisingly,*I personally have never seen a rotor that actually has physical distortion. I have even placed a dial indicator on so-called warped rotors to find that they have no run-out what-so-ever.

What does happen is that the layer of pad material on the rotor surface builds up unevenly, and the metallurgy*of the rotor can change states. The layer of pad material on the rotors surface, if it is unevenly distributed, will create hot spots. If these spots get hot enough, it can form cementite in the rotors metal – a rough iron carbide formation that creates a lot of friction, but is terrible at dissipating*heat. The cementite formation can get so bad and cause so much friction that even when you are off the brake pedal completely, because your pads are always in contact with the rotor ever so slightly, it can create a vibration when driving normally. I have even mistaken this vibration as my tires being out of balance.

Uneven transfer layer buildup and cementite is what produces “warped” rotors, not run-out or distortion. Cementite is a problem with iron rotors, rotors made of other materials like carbon do not suffer from this problem.

Vibrating can also be caused by a crack in the rotors surface. If you have a vibration that only appears during hard or extended braking, it may be a crack. The reason for this is that the cracks opens up when the rotor is hot and closes when it’s cold. You may never even know that there is a crack if you never build heat in the system…

Let me digress a little bit – There is surely some uneven*dimensional change (warping) to the rotor if you have a localized hot spot. But this seems to be only temporary and when the rotor cools, it returns to its normal flat state. I suppose you could drive through a puddle with very hot brakes and cause a*permanent measurable change, but it must be rare.

If I have my rotors resurfaced, will that fix the problem?

In my experiences, no. When I have had my rotors resurfaced, it only cured the vibrations temporarily. Within a few months, they return even if I haven’t been doing any hard driving. So what gives? Most likely, parts of my rotors had turned to*cementite and it was thick enough where resurfacing did not remove it all. Even if there was a small area left after resurfacing, that one spot will create a hot spot which will grow in fairly short order.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

· Registered
Joined
·
742 Posts
either way I like my drilled and slotted power stop rotors, fixed my issues and braking power is much stronger but that may just may be the ceramic brake pads.
 

· Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,947 Posts
Often drilled are just a better base rotor to start. The edges of drilled holes, slots or dimples serve to shave off any pad glazing from cheaper pads too, this shortens life and creates dust as well.

Really though I suspect people try drilled after trying cheap stuff and it might be the first time they got decent quality parts even if those parts were then drilled.

Sort of like ignition stuff, people swear the new parts are the best ever without considering what they took out was worn and not working right.
On my car since the front rotors are w-body size but in a car that even lightened some is 4200+ with me hot lapping at the dragstrip will begin to heat check the rotors, even good directional vaned ones the weight coming down from 116mph repeatedly is stressful.
One of my wagons had a terrible "warped rotor" shortly after I bought it and some garnet sandpaper and performance friction pads solved that for 50k miles. Garnet is good at cutting pad deposits but not hard enough to cut into the iron rotor much.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
4,123 Posts
What are the part number for those Overkill? I just purchased some Raybestos Advanced Technology Performance pads and rotors for up front in my car, an 07 3.5, and if the police ones are better I might get them instead.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
4,123 Posts
Also Overkill what would be the cost of getting my tune updated? I guess what I'm looking for is to see if my current tune can be cleared and a new one applied or just order the new ECM? I'm looking to upgrade from the 87 Octane to the 91 or 93 Octane, now that the cost of gas is done, I'm running 93 now and the car seems to perform better or would it not be worth the costs to change to the 93 tune now. Thanks! I guess the advantage is, if the price of gas sky rockets again I can still run 87 if needed.
 

· Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,947 Posts
In rotors for cars like these a little more rotor mass is a good thing. Overkill are the police spec ones a little thicker? If not what is the difference?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
598 Posts
I'm a fan of not wasting money on shaving rotors. Today, I feel that the rotors are as replaceable as the pads, and at least in my experience, it ended up costing me a few bucks less.

I have not had a chance to replace the rotors on the Impala yet, but I used the AIMCO brand a lot with the GP. Where I don't mind spending a little more is on brake pads. I tend to want to especially stay away from the "cheaper" grade of Ceramix brand pads. They work great for a short time then fade quite a bit more than even stock. Also because the material is harder, it kills the rotors faster.

When my time comes, I will be following Will's example with police spec pads.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,092 Posts
I can't wait for my pads and rotors on my Impala to wear out. I have a new set of Wagner rotors and Monroe ceramic brake pads that need to be installed. They both look really good quality, but I'll report how well they work after they're installed. :)
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top