But what year and engine combo are you working with?

 

3.5 v6 2010

 

Don't immediately jump to the conclusion that it's the most expensive or oogie boogie part you can think of.
Unload the Parts Canon and do some diagnosis.
On older vehicles I'd say you blew a fusible link but these don't have fusible links. GM used Maxi fuses instead.
There are four 60A Maxi fuses in the fuse relay panel next to the battery. They're marked BATT 1 - BATT 4 on the diagram. You probably popped one of those.
60A is pretty big. I bet it sounded like a firecracker going off.

 

That the thing I've checked each fuse and things like that and it's just not showing any the fuses are fine not a single one is melted and they are I've checked them with a multimeter and they are all reading 0 as they should because if they was popped it would show some readings the relays show 85 ohms

 

GM calls them a "fusible link fuse"
GM 22917199

This is what I'm talking about.

If all four of those are good you need to grab yourself some wiring diagrams.
Specifically you're looking for the power distribution wiring diagram.

Check the main battery power connection on top of the fuse block to the engine with your test light.
Then start checking for volts at the test points on top of the little ATM fuses using the engine as your ground and find out where the power stops.
Keep in mind several of these fuses should normally be powered down with the ignition switched off.

 

GM calls them a "fusible link fuse"
GM 22917199

This is what I'm talking about.
View attachment 169482

If all four of those are good you need to grab yourself some wiring diagrams.

Check the main battery power connection on top of the fuse block to the engine with your test light.
Then start checking for volts at the test points on top of the little ATM fuses using the engine as your ground and find out where the power stops.
Keep in mind several of these fuses should normally be powered down with the ignition switched off.

I've checked them they are fine and the relays are fine it is getting no power at all like nothing the only power I get is a check engine light and I can't even use my code reader on it that's why I'm starting to think its a computer because that's what sends the single everything on the diagrams come back to the ECU and the bcm so that's why I'm starting to think they are fired because if it wasn't fired id be able to at least code read the car or use a scan tool but obd port isn't even powered up

 

I tried to use the car to jump another car I heard a pop

Did pos touch neg during the jump?

 

they touched the body of the car

 

So you shorted the cable connected to the hot on the Impala to the body?

 

it will get power it just wont send it like if I hook up a battery to the car nothing comes on but if I use a meter on the car its still gets readings just wont power up nothing no click no start no dash lights the only light that comes on is the check engine so I don't understand whats happened

 

The money light means the ECM is getting power.

You really need the wiring diagrams to figure out a plan of attack. I have the 2009 service manuals but not 2010

 

 

A meter is a small load so it will show 12 volts even if the circuit can only pass a few milliamps.
That's why I was suggesting a test lamp on those fuse test points.

 

for a test light to work, i have to have the power that's what I'm fighting is no power at all

 

there the digram for the starter

 

You're need to find out where there is power and where there isn't power.

Once you find out where the juice is and is not you can narrow down where the problem lies.

 

Check your PMs

 

There are normal quick-blow fuses and there are slow-blow fuses as hatzie pictured. Slow blow fuses are sometimes referred to as FUSE LINKS or even FUSIBLE LINKS but they are not positioned in the wiring in a location to act when certain ultra-high electrical spikes occur.

There are two actual fusible links in most cars (although 2012+ some manufacturers are again playing with plug-in devices).

I'm not a fan of AI or of computer-speak video but the best description I can find in short order is:

Google Search

It's far from a perfect video. But for comparison to your vehicle it should work fine enough. So for a moment just watch the video taking care to differentiate between fusible link AS A SPECIAL LENGTH OF SPECIALLY INSULATED WIRE.

These actual fusible links are positioned near the battery in order to protect electronics and all other fuses. And relays resistors diodes.

What ever you did, that POP noise is classic fusible link burning.

There is one between the battery and the starter. And there is one between the battery and the Alternator. Sometimes one between battery and fuse box.

So unbundle the harness off the BATTERY POS cable and see if your car has an actual FUSIBLE LINK WIRE SECTION. Go easy don't rip into it. Razor surgically to avoid doing damage.

Over history just about nothing else is as robust and long lasting as that length of very special wire. It's not something that is well understood by most folks. So DO NOT REPLACE IT WITH NORMAL WIRE.

If you have no lengths of wire with really thick insulation then yours may be using a plug-in device as a fusible link. But you said you meter tested everything.

Hope this at least leads you onto the path to a fix. Local auto supply will have fusible link wire kits tfor easier fix.

For future, look in owners manual for instructions where to put cables and in what order when jump starting. Doing it wrong will fry your wiring and can result in fires erupting in wiring.