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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I haven't started my car in about 1.5 weeks, the past several days were below freezing. I went to start my car and it was dead. No response on anything. I went to put a battery charger on it and when the charger kicks in the car makes some clicking noise and the charger shuts down. The charger then starts up again and after about 10 sec of charging there is some clicking noise in the engine bay then the charger shuts down. This action just cycles. I have never seen this before. Does anyone have any ideas. Year is about a year never had battery or charging (alt) issues before this winter.

any input appreciated.

The volts fluctuated between 2.5V and 5.75V when it starts to charge and shuts down. The clicking is coming from the fuse box
 

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I haven't started my car in about 1.5 weeks, the past several days were below freezing. I went to start my car and it was dead. No response on anything. I went to put a battery charger on it and when the charger kicks in the car makes some clicking noise and the charger shuts down. The charger then starts up again and after about 10 sec of charging there is some clicking noise in the engine bay then the charger shuts down. This action just cycles. I have never seen this before. Does anyone have any ideas. Year is about a year never had battery or charging (alt) issues before this winter.

any input appreciated.

The volts fluctuated between 2.5V and 5.75V when it starts to charge and shuts down. The clicking is coming from the fuse box
I'm not sure why it's clicking, but if you disconnect the battery from the car, you should be able to charge the battery, then reconnect it after it's charged.

I'm assuming the charger is good, and that the battery charging is somehow affecting the car's electrical system. That said, you could have a bad battery. If, with it disconnected form the car, the charger still doesn't work, I suggest taking the battery to a parts store and having them test it.

If you have a side post battery, you may need to pick up some screw terminals to connect the charger to. Perhaps your charger has these included as accessories.

HTH.

Doug


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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
well wife just got home and I put the jumper cables on it. The car's lights came back to life but still wont start. The theft light keeps flashing and It will now accept a battery charger but when I try to start the car while on the jumper cables the car just had a loud click in the fuse box and all the lights started to flash. Thats where the antitheft light was flashing. It information center asked me to put down the driver window and then up, which is weird but I did it. I have the charger on there now and will let it sit for a while and see if it holds a full charge, then I will try to start it.

If that doesnt work then I might disconnect battery and try to charge outside of the vehicle and if that doesnt work I take to store and have tested. Seems odd a one year old battery to loose charge that easy
 

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Is this the OE battery???

I'm agreeing with Doug. I think the battery is pooched.

Probably shorting out across the bottom of the cells. They do really weird stuff when they go bad. Old batteries and cold weather do not get along.

Edit

Apparently I was posting this as you were posting as well.
I would still have the battery tested. It's not unheard of for a 1 yr old battery to fail.
 

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It is Hard to say but from the sounds of it, Sounds like you have a Large Draw on your car. Was it that you had your key in the ign in on when you connected the Battery Charger? If that is the case then it could be that the clicking you hear is your Relays turning on. However the Draw was to much and made your battery drop to fast and as a Computer Controlled Battery Charger it shut down to protect it self.

If your not able to get a Charge on it yet. Take the keys out, Turn off the Lights if on, close all doors and let the car sit for a few minutes. maybe even lock the door with the key to help tell the Computer in the car you have left. It will still do a small drain for a little while but not much....

After a few minutes connect your charger again. IF it is like I think and like mine, I would let it go slow for a short time, Maybe make sure it is on 12v if it starts out in 6.... Then after about 3 to 5 minutes change it up to the Fast charge mode or Mid range if your not in a hurry.... Then let it go until all the lights go out but the Green charged light.

IF you car don't have a good charge (Aka weak battery) will could go into security loop as a way to keep the power it has. Once the car is charged to a point that you can do some testing if you have a Multi Meter.

Once Battery is fully charged, Test the battery without charger on the car. Could be 12.6 to 13v at this time... Open the door and turn on your Headlights. Your car battery should drop down to about 12.2v for a good 2 minutes. With a Really good battery I have seen them stay there for 10 minutes. If your car starts to drop under 12v after a full charge before 2 minutes it could be your battery has a bad cell... Have it Checked by a Auto part or repair shop...

After the car test, I would turn headlights off and check if it will start! With full battery even after test the Security issue could be over and car starts. If it don't and Security is at fault do the Key Relearn. Again this will be some long time with the key on so make sure battery is on trickle or well charged. After the 3 Ten min relearn. The car should start... IF you have a battery drain that is a different test setup...

James
 

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I saw a trick on youtube that might help you. AGM batteries aren't recognized by battery chargers when they are nearly dead, so the charger just shuts off. To get around this connect your dead battery in parallel with a good battery. This will 'trick' your charger into thinking the battery isn't completely dead. Then you can recharge your battery. If that doesn't work then maybe your battery has a faulty cell and should be replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well for an update oddly enough the battery wouldn't charge while in the vehicle. I has a jumper cable from one vehicle to another and after 20min and battery reading 12.75V the car still wouldnt start. I had to take the battery out of the vehicle and fully charge it on the charger and put it back in the vehicle and surprisingly it fired back up.

Never had to take a battery out of the vehicle to charge but..... Very odd, plus with all the electrical protection circuits maybe something was in place to protect the rest of the car. Took battery to get tested for reassurance and it passed. So far havent had an issue since back in the vehicle but if weather gets cold I will start vehicle for charging to keep it up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well after two days the battery went dead AGAIN. Had it towed to Chevy dealer and they told me my trunk light was stuck on. The sensor/trigger for the trunk latch must have malfunctioned and kept the trunk light on and over a couple days it drained the battery.

Thats what they told me so cant comment on the truth behind it but we will see when they replace the switch.

Thank you for everyones input
 

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Well glad you got it figured out and hope this repair resolves your problem... Your 1 year old battery being fully discharge 3 or more times, even a new battery could be damaged and may not want to hold a charge like it would normally... May want to keep an eye on your car after fixed to make sure it recovers...

James
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
New update. They are blaming the LED bulb I have in the trunk. They say the bulb is keeping a module "awake" which is draining the battery.

I had the bulb in there for about 4-5 months and it's finally causing this. Not sure to beleive this. How could a bulb cause an issue when the trunk is closed and not drawing current.

I know I'm not the only one with LED bulbs. This bulb might have failed and caused an open circuit but with trunk closed.......?

I have bought my LED bulbs from one source for four cars, never had an issue (bulb failure was rare) but nothing to this level of issues.
 

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Then what I would do is remove any aftermarket LED bulbs you got in your car replace with OEM and see if you still have drainage issues. It could be legit or it could be a lazy tech who just saw the mods and said EFF this. Been there done that. You still have issue with drainage then go back to dealer
 

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I think these LED bulbs have some circuitry in them beyond just a filament like your conventional bulbs have.
You can't dim an LED unless it has the brain that will let you and it's a special kind of dimmer you need as well. This may be the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
So after a $40 trunk light bulb my wife went to pick up the car and they couldnt get it to start. So i question if the bulb was even the cause but....

Would any LED cause such issues. They keep claiming that the BCM (body control module) wakes up and drains battery.
 

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Well I have to mention again about your battery... If it was discharged to many times it could be that your battery is never going to hold a charge...

About the BCM, If they test and said your light in the trunk was bad (Another case of aftermarket Blame Game...) Did you pay for the testing? BCM wakes up and draws your battery to dead?

I am not sure it ever went to sleep if that was the case... Does your car have any aftermarket AMPS or stereo equipment installed? Aftermarket alarm system? I am not saying they are at fault just saying that it is a place to look...

If you don't you could also still do some testing to see where the fault could be. With a DMM that has the ability of looking over amps. Having one that will do upto 20amps is best but if you have one with 10amps may work... I disconnect the Negative side of the battery to do this testing for safety reasons. Either side will work. Please if you use the Positive Side be careful (Again I wouldn't) Set your meter at the Highest amp setting, put your probe in the amp side. (Make sure after doing these test you change it back to normal side of your meter Not doing so can damage your meter)

Start testing after a couple of Minutes of leaving the car like you would at night, No Key in, Doors closed all lights off and so on. Same way you would leave the car. after a few mintues the computer should go to sleep Take Neg side battery off, Put Black cable on the cable side and red on the battery ground side... What your looking for here is a .05 or lower draw. If it has more draw then that clamp the wires to the post and cable so your hands are free for more testing... I used to use Vice Grips now use mini clamps. Open the under hood fuse box, Remove each fuse until you find the one that will drop your meter down to .05 or lower. When you find the fuse that makes the change you will need to look over that area. if no change under hood look to the ones in the car. There has to be a draw.. If you have a 10amp setting meter, I would take off the leads while you open door, Take out Interior light fuse and connect the meter back for testing. Without the fuse for the int lights you have done 2 things. Tested that it wasn't the cause and made it so there wasn't an issue having your door open to look over the inside fuses. If it did drop down to under .05 after you pulled that fuse you know it is part if your issue, if not keep pulling out the fuses one at a time until you find the fault...

Once you find the fault, you would need to look over the wiring info for your car. This can help you track down what your fuse is going to and help try and find the problem...

Part of Warning... DON'T TEST VOLTAGE WITH YOUR METER WHILE YOUR LEADS ARE PLUGGED INTO THE AMP PART OF YOUR METER. DOING SO MAY DAMAGE YOUR METER...

Hope you find this to be helpful

James
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
CAr is totally stock except for LED reverse lights, rear plate lights, front turn signals.

I will have to pass this thought along and see what they say but after four days and they cant explain I question if I took it to the right place? (Chevy dealership)
 

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Well I will clean up my last message. As a way to try and help. There are better ways doing this test but does take advanced tools that GM has. So really my last message to someone that knows how to test for this or has Scope or more then one multi meter. Then my test as listed don't really matter much...

IF you don't have a meter that can test AMPs you could also do a test with your Volt meter over the Fuses. This can be a longer test to preform because at times there is no much room for testing each fuse. However you can test each fuse for a drop as well. Also useful if having 2 meters one as stated before in my last post, and rather then taking out the fuses one by one you can use another meter to test over the fuses. This will help keep the car from waking up in all the NEWer cars with all the computers that run everything...

About my last warning as well.. Lets not look at the damaging of the meter but the computers in the car. So only time to use AMP in your meter is for testing AMP draw.. OTher then that always Keep your meter in the normal Voltage testing mode...

Having it at the dealer. Not fixing the issue has me stumped. You to say they said Only thing can tell you is the BCM wakes up and kills the battery? For me. Testing a car that always has a draw on the car. Should lead to a area on the car other then the BCM where the draw is coming from. However if after testing all the car and only thing that drops the draw is the BCM would sound like the BCM is defective. Sadly not something easy to rule out without it's replacement.

James
 
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