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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've tried searching and couldn't find an example as I wade through all the hits, but I'd love to see what others have learned about their 3.6 GDI.

I know of the severe duty of the oil in this engine, the importance of using a good, and I've even searched at Bob Is The Oil Guy, but even there, I've waded through many posts and have not found a recent Impala Limited having the oil analyzed. Some assorted other vehicles, but no recent Impalas.


I understand every engine is different, but I'd like to see the information that may be out there.

If there has been one or more done here, can someone post a link to them?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
From the lack of replies, I have to guess that no one here has done a Blackstone UOA.

From all the advice on oil use and Oil Change Intervals here, I expected at least a few had gone thru the process.

I tried manually searching the Bob Is The Oil Guy website and also Google searching the website name and engine type and got very few results. Nothing for Malibu/Impala.

I'm interested in fuel dilution level as well.

I've just ordered a kit ($28) and will send it back requesting the standard test and optional ($10) TBN anti-wear additives level test.

I'm thinking the 38 bucks should cover my curiosity.

Blackstone Labs
 

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Actually waiting on the 20$ test kit myself. 5000km/ 2 month old Pennzoil Ultta Platinum with a catch can.

And i would never leave my oil to 5-10 percent on the OLM. My oil is so dirty after 5k and my OLM is at 60% lol. So cheap to change oil and its the main protection for your engine. But im super anal about the oil change, cuz ive never had an engine problem and im hard on my vehicles engines once warmed up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
There are a whole bunch of people that say too short of an OCI is counterproductive; that more wear occurs just after you change the oil rather than the period in the middle of the OCI, and that a filter filters better when it has been in the car for a while, rather than when it is new, as with a fresh oil and filter change.

They say you should run the oil down to where the TBN has gotten low, so long as there are no other bad things in the report to shorten the interval at when you should change the oil, say, fuel dilution, metals from wear, etc.

The current common wisdom is that the new oil only gets good after, say, a 1000 miles, filter too, then degrades at the end of the OCI.

It's complicated, but there is material at Bob Is The Oil Guy that people are impressed with.

I haven't studied the technical papers, because I really don't have time to obsess over the task.

I do it because I have to, but I'd like to do it the best I can; top oil and filter choices, proper OCI.

From the stuff I pour out of the catch can I installed, I'd recommend everyone get one.

My can has 3 ports; it works at part throttle and wide open throttle positions too, as well as providing a vacuum to the oil fill cap, so the whole system is properly addressed.

I've ordered replacement pieces for OE parts I had to cut or modify to install the catch can, just in case I have a warranty issue. I'll put all the things I need into a ziploc bag, wrench and screwdriver too, so if something happens on the road, I swap out the evidence while a tow truck comes.

That stuff is the nastiest smelling crap I have ever smelled; it's got to be murder on the oil, if you leave it in there.

Wicked, nasty, death, die, kill you smell.:|

It'd be fun to test that crap. :eek:
 

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There are a whole bunch of people that say too short of an OCI is counterproductive; that more wear occurs just after you change the oil rather than the period in the middle of the OCI, and that a filter filters better when it has been in the car for a while, rather than when it is new, as with a fresh oil and filter change.

They say you should run the oil down to where the TBN has gotten low, so long as there are no other bad things in the report to shorten the interval at when you should change the oil, say, fuel dilution, metals from wear, etc.

The current common wisdom is that the new oil only gets good after, say, a 1000 miles, filter too, then degrades at the end of the OCI.

It's complicated, but there is material at Bob Is The Oil Guy that people are impressed with.

I haven't studied the technical papers, because I really don't have time to obsess over the task.

I do it because I have to, but I'd like to do it the best I can; top oil and filter choices, proper OCI.

From the stuff I pour out of the catch can I installed, I'd recommend everyone get one.

My can has 3 ports; it works at part throttle and wide open throttle positions too, as well as providing a vacuum to the oil fill cap, so the whole system is properly addressed.

I've ordered replacement pieces for OE parts I had to cut or modify to install the catch can, just in case I have a warranty issue. I'll put all the things I need into a ziploc bag, wrench and screwdriver too, so if something happens on the road, I swap out the evidence while a tow truck comes.

That stuff is the nastiest smelling crap I have ever smelled; it's got to be murder on the oil, if you leave it in there.

Wicked, nasty, death, die, kill you smell.:|

It'd be fun to test that crap. :eek:

Where did you get your catch can from, which one did you get?
 

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There are a whole bunch of people that say too short of an OCI is counterproductive; that more wear occurs just after you change the oil rather than the period in the middle of the OCI, and that a filter filters better when it has been in the car for a while, rather than when it is new, as with a fresh oil and filter change.


They say you should run the oil down to where the TBN has gotten low, so long as there are no other bad things in the report to shorten the interval at when you should change the oil, say, fuel dilution, metals from wear, etc.

The current common wisdom is that the new oil only gets good after, say, a 1000 miles, filter too, then degrades at the end of the OCI.

It's complicated, but there is material at Bob Is The Oil Guy that people are impressed with.

I haven't studied the technical papers, because I really don't have time to obsess over the task.

I do it because I have to, but I'd like to do it the best I can; top oil and filter choices, proper OCI.

From the stuff I pour out of the catch can I installed, I'd recommend everyone get one.

My can has 3 ports; it works at part throttle and wide open throttle positions too, as well as providing a vacuum to the oil fill cap, so the whole system is properly addressed.

I've ordered replacement pieces for OE parts I had to cut or modify to install the catch can, just in case I have a warranty issue. I'll put all the things I need into a ziploc bag, wrench and screwdriver too, so if something happens on the road, I swap out the evidence while a tow truck comes.

That stuff is the nastiest smelling crap I have ever smelled; it's got to be murder on the oil, if you leave it in there.

Wicked, nasty, death, die, kill you smell.


It'd be fun to test that crap.

Where did you get your catch can from, which one did you get?
I know your not asking me but i got mine for Elite Engineering. It is actually disgusting what the catch can catches Gross, kinda milky, fuel smelling, chainsaw oil lmao. Kinda hurts to know i went 40000km without 1 :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Where did you get your catch can from, which one did you get?
I was vaguely familiar with them but never knew that people were using them on street stock vehicles until I bought a newer Impala and started reading more here.

I've seen the threads here, watched the online videos, checked the websites of the major brands, and settled on buying the dual version from these guys:

Teamrxp, rx catch can, ecoboost rx monster can original RX can

Here is the link to the specific kit:

IMPALA CATCH CAN 3.6 LLT CATCH CAN CADILLAC 3.6 CATCH CAN | Teamrxp, rx catch can, ecoboost rx monster can original RX can

I did not like the price at all.

I did not like not having a schematic, instructions, nor a video for a transverse application, as the intake is different and the install is much different and Tracy's over the email and over the phone directions required I call back again to be able to hook it up correctly.

I've posted some pics in a recent thread I do not recall right now. Might have been the 'what did you do to your impala today' thread, not sure.

But I like how it works.

I strongly recommend getting the kit as it includes the oil fill/clean side separator.

The thread on here from quite a while back had only a single valve can system, so it didn't work for both part throttle and WOT.
 

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ive seen the oil analysis from a few catch cans that were sent in to blackstone. many times it was mostly water especially in places with cold weather. Cold climate areas should empty them more frequently .Which explains why yours is milky. Im not sure what would happen if it filled up completely but i know it wouldn't be good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The Blackstone vial arrived in the mail, since I'm off for the holidays starting Friday, the car is going into the dealer to have them look at the console lid issue. The lid fits really really loose onto the console base and rattles like crazy if my arm isn't on the lid pad. I really don't see how they can adjust or fix what I have; the rectangular catch hole in the plastic console base seems to be cut too high. I don't see them wanting to replace the whole console base either. The rubber bumpers on the bottom of the lid are in place and in good condition. Shimming the lid makes the fit only get looser.

I'm due for an oil change, and since the weather is real crappy right now, I'm gonna let them do the oil change, as it's included for free in the visit, but I'm going to have them use my Pennzoil Platinum. I'd like to have them use my filter too, but I doubt they will go for that. Nothing against the OE filter, it's just that for the Analysis, I'd like to have my normal filter be the one during the OCI, so when I take a sample from this oil when it's ready, that my filter brand is the one for the UOA, and not a Delco one that I won't ever use again.

The fact that this is the first use of PP instead of the Mobil 1 EP I was using also makes me want to wait, until after a second use.

I use NAPA Gold filters which is a Wix.

I started out using the Mobil 1 EP I've always used when I bought the car, but changed to Pennzoil Platinum this last time, due to the heavy recommendations here and BITOG, and my research. I should have near 5000 miles on it.

While I'd like to get the results now, I'm thinking that relying on the guy to take the sample mid-drain, and the fact that I just recently switched to PP, that I should wait until the next oil change to actually take the sample and send it in.

At least I'll know that I took the sample in the middle of the drain process, as they direct, and not at the beginning or end, and I know I'll have only the PP in the oil pan, without any trace of the Mobil 1.

It's sort of an awkward deal, the dealer involvement, the first use of PP, perhaps a filter that I won't ever be using, but info that doesn't reflect my actual use conditions isn't accurate info, and the 38 bucks I spend should reflect what I want to test. :/

I'm pulling the catch can during the week, and swapping in the rear manifold vacuum fitting and air cleaner duct I just got in the mail. The originals were altered to install the catch can. It was 77 bucks delivered for the two items. A screw driver and a single wrench to remove the bracket bolt and it's done.

I'd rather not have to discuss it being on there, but will talk to them about how they feel about me putting one on it, should I ever consider it. ;)
 

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As promised, I received this from UPR products. It is their latest 4 stage/compartment catch can (5028). 2.25" x 6" satin finish, rotatable top mount, with 2 nickel plated 3/8" or 1/2" elbow barb fittings for $109 shipped. :D:eek:k3:

This can appears to work very well as seen here in these posts:
UPR vs Elite Engineering Catch Can
MustangForums - Modern Ford Mustang News and Discussion

I also picked up 3 barb check valves, 2 barb tee's, and some fuel line hose. With this setup, I run the clean side line down to the point where the clean side manifold connection is and put a tee in the line, then connect 2 check valves - 1 going to the intake manifold and the other going to the second tee I put on the air intake connection in front of the throttle body. This provides vacuum in normal and WOT situations. Instead of a clean side separator, I just use the 3rd check valve inline from the tee on the air intake going to the normal clean side valve cover connection. This prevents oil from getting in the air intake in WOT situations. All the air is metered and accounted for, no extra holes, and I can put the cover back on and use the regular oil cap. I'll post more pics when it is installed. I plan on putting the can up front by the fans and airbox and make it the lowest point of the system - this should keep it cooler and with gravity and the longer runs, coalesce better in the can. UPR indicated their studies showed that the higher the vacuum velocity in the hose, the better the can works, so I will run 3/8" on the upstream side (dirty) and 1/2" on the downstream side (clean), giving me a pressure differential in the can.
 

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Carbide,

You may have already seen this, but this is a really good read about OIL and some common myths. 195 oils wear tested and site kept up to date. Lots of good info.

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

I am not trying to start anything. just passing on some info I ran across that seemed to have some empirical data rather than someone's opinion.
 

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Amsoil 5W30 in my 2014..... The fact it takes forever for oil to make it to the oilpan in the 3.6 is annoying so my first change I just dumped in the recommended amount and it was overfull. Ran it about 2000 miles and drained the level down plus figured why not get analysis done. Oil came back completely normal however is showing 1.63% fuel dilution which is not something I like. I am going to sample again at about the 4000 mile mark and see if that number has gone up or stayed somewhat static. This car does take forever to warm up in cold weather if you don't drive it so a couple of extended idles could have easily caused this.... it's what direct injection seems to be good at. The first 40000 miles of this cars life was probably dealer bulk oil so it will be interesting to see what happens.... I didn't test what I drained when I put my Amsoil but oh well lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Amsoil 5W30 in my 2014..... The fact it takes forever for oil to make it to the oilpan in the 3.6 is annoying so my first change I just dumped in the recommended amount and it was overfull. Ran it about 2000 miles and drained the level down plus figured why not get analysis done. Oil came back completely normal however is showing 1.63% fuel dilution which is not something I like. I am going to sample again at about the 4000 mile mark and see if that number has gone up or stayed somewhat static. This car does take forever to warm up in cold weather if you don't drive it so a couple of extended idles could have easily caused this.... it's what direct injection seems to be good at. The first 40000 miles of this cars life was probably dealer bulk oil so it will be interesting to see what happens.... I didn't test what I drained when I put my Amsoil but oh well lol.
Not sure I understand the issue of overfilling.

First, I want to say that the reason you don't want to overfill is increased friction of the crank swishing thru oil in the pan, but second and most important is, if it is too full, you can damage the engine, so always check the level after you are done, because as humans, and distracted and maybe a few beers into your weekend tasks, it is easy to make stupid mistakes that you swear you would never allow yourself to make.

Don't ask me how I know this, but always double check the stuff that you do, to be thorough.

If you had the filter off and the plug out and it finished draining the used oil, and then you put in the plug and mounted a new oil filter and added 6 quarts, started the engine to fill the filter and shut it off and waited a few minutes for the oil to drain back to the pan, you were there.

If you added a 5 quart bottle and 1 more quart of another 5 quart bottle, it would have been the correct amount.

If you checked the oil without starting the car, it would read overfilled but after running, stopping and resting a few minutes, it would have been correct.

If you added 6 quarts before changing the filter, it may have been about 1/2 quart overfilled.

But basically, if you put 6 quarts into the pan when the pan was empty and the new filter was installed empty, it would have been correctly filled.


I'm at about 5,000 miles; they said I could go farther, so I think I'm gonna wait at least another week before I send in another sample.

I'm paid up thru 5 more tests, and my cost is only at the post office in shipping it.

I wish I would have started testing back when I was using Mobil 1 EP.

I'm all out of it, so I may buy 3 more 5 quart bottles and do a couple tests of that next.

One thing I notice since going to the Pennz PP is that the oil in the catch can looks milky like others have described, but I did not see the milkiness with the Mobil 1 EP. The moisture may still have been there, but it wasn't milky like it is now.

Kinda weird, both are fully synthetic; anybody else notice this?
 
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