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Alternator/Battery Problem.

1514 Views 3 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  John F
My alternator died 2 months ago. If I tried to use the heated seats or headlights with the engine off, within seconds the battery saver would activate and the engine would crank weak. Turns out the alternator was only putting out enough to restart the engine. Replaced that with a AutoZone one, but I plan on putting a AC Delco In later on. But everything seems under powered. Idling voltage Is at 13.8. When It first starts It's around 14.5 then slowly drops to 13.8 with nothing but the engine on. When I full field the alt from my scan tool the dash gets brighter, the blower motor speeds up, the wipers/windows don't slow down, everything performs better. When It's full fielded voltage Is at 15V and that's Idling at 600 rpm. I had Issues last year with the battery current sensor I redid the terminals and couldn't remember which cable the sensor went on. I finally got It figured out and the code for that hasn't come back. I routed both positive cables through the sensor like all said. But Idk If the battery Is the problem or the PCM/current sensor not telling the alternator to output more. I always thought the dash was kinda dim as I drive alot at night. When I replaced the alt I tested the battery 3 times and It passed every time as It's less than a year old. Deka brand battery. Im not having any starting problems but I don't like how everything Is slow and dim. I also did the big three last year. I don't have anything aftermarket/sound system. Think maybe I need a bigger battery with more reserve/possibly a AGM? Thanks.
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A standard battery should be all you need. As to the alt voltage, 13.8 is probably about right at idle. That is charging the battery, and if the battery is already fully charged it would not need to put out a higher rate. As to why motors are going slower, may be a weak ground somewhere.
Nice topic! I have a sound system in my car and when I have the bass all the way up and the music turned all the way up, when I'm sitting at a red light, my car seems to want to stall out (never really does) but it differently studders almost feels like a misfire or slight jolt forward. I want this to stop, is it cause of the alternator?

I have not done the big 3 and I'm would like to change my alternator to a 400a alt. How hard is it to get to the alternator?
Nice topic! I have a sound system in my car and when I have the bass all the way up and the music turned all the way up, when I'm sitting at a red light, my car seems to want to stall out (never really does) but it differently studders almost feels like a misfire or slight jolt forward. I want this to stop, is it cause of the alternator?

I have not done the big 3 and I'm would like to change my alternator to a 400a alt. How hard is it to get to the alternator?
To remove your alternator
Remove cross support bar
Disconnect battery terminals use bungy cords to hold them out of the way.
Remove battery
Use 1/2” breaker bar to loosen tension on tensioner pully.
Take belt off and leave it in there.
Maybe want to take a couple pics of the belt path first.
There’s two bolts between alt and radiator and one that doubles as a pully on the side. 3 bolts hold it on.
Carefully remove positive lead on alternator and little plug that goes back to ecu.
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