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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I decided to replace both of the front hub assembly's on my 2001 Impala LS. While I had it taken apart, I decided to replace the brake pads and rotors as well with just OEM stuff.

Now that all of that has been done, I still intermittently get the Service Traction System light coming on, and it feels like there is a problem with the ABS. I say that about the ABS because the light comes on now and then when.

The real question is, is one of the Hub's that I bought defective? If you think it could be, is there anything that I can do to test to see which one it could be? I was also reading somewhere else that said the actual wiring harness can get corroded, and even sometimes damaged and/or pinched by all of the moving suspension parts. I am going to inspect that part of it and will report back.

Thanks guys!
 

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I seriously doubt it was the hubs to begin with. The people I bought this car from had both hubs changed very recently and I am still having problems with the ABS/TCS. Mine has toned down a little. But I have a baby coming and want this s*** fixed before May. I'm not even going to mess with it. I am going to take it in pretty soon and have them run a diagnostic on the brake system. My feeling is it is probably an electrical problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I was doing some more searching, mostly in google... I found a LOT of instances where the wiring harness itself went bad. "Bad" meaning that it either got coroded, or it is even pinched, possible exposing a wire. Lots of people were complaining that they took the car in, and had the hubs replaced and it did not solve the problem, and then they went as far as having the ABS module replaced, again, not solving the problem.

I am going to trace the wiring to see if that is my case. I found where you can order that part of the wiring harness and just fix it yourself. I will look that up again and paste it here cause maybe it's the same issue that we both have. If that is the issue, it leads me to believe that maybe the hubs weren't even bad as you mentioned. But, I was able to do the work myself so if it is the wiring harness, it was still MUCH cheaper than taking it to a dealer to have it inspected. Chances are, if you do take it in, they are going to tell you it's the hubs and they need to be replaced... It's all speculation, but it's something that sounds relatively simple to inspect...

Can anyone else chime in on this???
 

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The most common problem if its not the hub bearings, its the wires. You can buy the harness kit from GM and it mostly fixes them.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The most common problem if its not the hub bearings, its the wires. You can buy the harness kit from GM and it mostly fixes them.
Thank you for the info!

Here is what I found on it from another site:
----------------------------------------------------
#03-05-25-008: Intermittent/Constant ABS MIL Illuminated (Replace Both Front Wheel
Speed Harnesses) - (Oct 1, 2003)


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Subject: Intermittent/Constant ABS MIL Illuminated (Replace Both Front Wheel Speed Harnesses)
Models: 2001-03 Buick Century, Regal
2001-03 Chevrolet Impala, Monte Carlo
2001-02 Oldsmobile Intrigue

2001-04 Pontiac Grand Prix


________________________________________

Condition

Some customers may comment on an intermittent or constant ABS malfunction indicator light.

Cause

The front wheel speed sensor harness may wear or come into contact with the tie rod end stud. Additionally, the harness may, in some instances, loop over the tie rod stud. In this case, the wheel speed sensor should be examined for damage.

Correction

Replace original wheel speed sensor harnesses by splicing in revised wheel speed sensor harnesses. The new design harnesses are of a different length and have revised retention clip locations. Use the following procedure to replace the harnesses.
1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle on a hoist.
2. Disconnect the left wheel speed sensor harness from the sensor/bearing assembly.
3. Remove the harness retainers from the lower control arm.
4. Follow the harness back to the point where the harness enters the larger engine harness conduit.
5. Cut the electrical tape and open the conduit. Select a location where the splice will be within the engine harness conduit. Cut the original harness off.
6. Using GM/Packard Seal and Crimp Connectors, splice the two wires from the new harness to the old. Specific instructions for use of the Seal and Crimp Connectors are printed on the inside of the cardboard overleaf sealing the bag in which the harness is shipped. If Seal and Crimp Connectors are not available, you may use the crimp and solder type included with the harness kit.
7. Retape the conduit closed making sure to create an effective seal against road splash.
8. Route the replacement harness following the same path as the original. Fully seat the 4 retainers into the control arm.
Notice: In the next step you will be required to measure the distance between the last retaining clip in the control arm and the end of the electrical plug that connects to the wheel speed sensor. Failure to properly perform this measurement and suitably adjust the harness may result in entanglement or infringement on the tie rod stud.
9. Hold the end of the new electrical harness and stretch it firmly. Due to manufacturing tolerances, you will need to measure from the end of the plug (that attaches to the wheel speed sensor) to the rear edge of the first retaining clip. This distance must not exceed 24.7 cm (9.75 in). If the distance is equal to or greater than 24.7 cm (9.75 in), you must move the retaining clip to allow more slack at the control arm and less between the wheel speed sensor and the retainer. Repeat the measurement until properly adjusted.
10. Disconnect the right wheel speed sensor harness from the sensor/bearing assembly.
11. Remove the harness retainers from the lower control arm.
12. Follow the harness back to the point where the harness enters the larger conduit.
13. Cut the electrical tape and open the conduit. Select a location where the splice will be within the larger harness conduit. Cut the original harness off.
14. Using GM/Packard Seal and Crimp Connectors, splice the two wires from the new harness to the old. Specific instructions for use of the Seal and Crimp Connectors are printed on the inside of the cardboard overleaf sealing the bag in which the harness is shipped. If Seal and Crimp Connectors are not available, you may use the crimp and solder type included with the harness kit.
15. Retape the conduit closed making sure to create an effective seal against road splash.
16. Route the replacement harness following the same path as the original. Fully seat the 4 retainers into the control arm.
Notice: In the next step you will be required to measure the distance between the last retaining clip in the control arm and the end of the electrical plug that connects to the wheel speed sensor. Failure to properly perform this measurement and suitably adjust the harness may result in entanglement or infringement on the tie rod stud.
17. Hold the end of the new electrical harness and stretch it firmly. Due to manufacturing tolerances, you will need to measure from the end of the plug (that attaches to the wheel speed sensor) to the rear edge of the first retaining clip. This distance must not exceed 24.7 cm (9.75 in). If the distance is equal to or greater than 24.7 cm (9.75 in), you must move the retaining clip to allow more slack at the control arm and less between the wheel speed sensor and the retainer. Repeat the measurement until properly adjusted.

Parts Information

Part Number Description
10340313 ABS Jumper Harness (01-03 Impala, Monte Carlo) -- Right
10340314 ABS Jumper Harness (01-03 Impala, Monte Carlo)-Left
10340315 ABS Jumper Harness (01-04 Grand Prix, 01-02 Intrigue)-Right
10340317 ABS Jumper Harness (01-04 Grand Prix, 01-02 Intrigue)-Left
10340318 ABS Jumper Harness (01-03 Regal, Century)-Right
10340316 ABS Jumper Harness (01-03 Regal, Century)-Left
12089189 Crimp N' Seal Double End Connectors (x4)
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
 

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Just discovered I need to get my rotors turned. If thats what the problem is then that would explain why the ABS would kick in so often. And why the TCS and ABS would turn off too.
 

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why not just get new rotors? turning them is just going to lead to more warping down the line.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Rotors should only cost you about 25-30 each, and getting them turned usually costs about 15 each... It is a no-brainer to just buy new ones! Providing you are just going to purchase original replacement ones from Napa or AZ or something... But in all honesty, I doubt wharped rotors are causing your problem.

Back to the Service Traction issue:
I took everything apart this weekend and inspected the wires. I don't see anything that would be causing any problems... In all honesty, I was hoping that I would find an exposed wire or something that was causing the traction light. So, I am going to just replace the wiring harness now.

So, where is the best place, best place = cheapest place, to buy them???
 

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I thought that because ABS kicks on when one wheel isn't decelerating the same speed as the other one. If one of my disks was in good condition and the other one needed to be 'turned.' I figured that could be one of the problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well I am close to setting this damn car on fire at this point. :mad: I purchase new AC Delco wiring harness's for the front hubs. Last night, I spend a couple of hours installing them... Making sure everything was properly sealed and the slack was exactly like the original wiring.

Start the car... "trac off" and "abs" lights are still on. What in the hell could be the problem with this? To recap, I have replaced both front hub assembly's, both of the wiring harness's, also installed new front brake pads and rotors (which is not related, it just needed to be done while I had it taken apart). Is there a fuse or a relay anywhere that I can check? Is there any type of scanner out there that can tell me what the problem is? Any advise would be greatly appreciated!
 

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Answer for bigcat24

Sorry to have to answer this way bigcat - apparently some rule about replying to your message you sent
bigcat24 said:
I was reading about your issue with the traction system... You mentioned that you replaced the wiring harness and it fixed your problem. The kit that I bought on had wires that are about 16 inches long, i replaced them and spliced in the wire but it didn't fix the problem. My question is, hopw long were the actual wires and how far did they go back in the kit that you bought? Thank you very much!
Unfortunately I don't know that info because I had the work done at a shop. I can tell you that I had replaced the wheel bearings with the sensors first, and that it didn't fix the problem, which then led to the route of doing the wiring. Apparently, the connector plug itself is the culprit, but I also saw reports of frayed wires (no evidence of that on mine). If you're sure about having correctly spliced in the wiring, then it may be your wheel bearings/sensors. I would suggest using only the GM made product or a Timken made product. The quality of other replacements is questionable. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I am having it scanned today at 4:00 so I should have some sort of an answer. If one of the hub's are defective, which I mentioned that I already replaced them, then I will return it. I will be honest and say that I did go the cheap route on the new hubs, mainly because this is a 2nd car that I just drive when I don't want to take the truck. I will report back what the scan shows. Currently, the "ABS" light, the "Trac off" light and the "brake" light are all on...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well, sorta good news I guess... problem was the front driver side hub. Not sure if it was the connection or the hub itself. Returned it, installed new one, problem solved! SO FAR anyway!
 
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