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Discussion Starter #1,622
Ahh, I see. It also mentions that you should use the police-specific pads instead of the normal pads if "warpage" is an issue - are you now using police-specific pads as well?

I still wonder why they put the shields on there in the first place if they're not really needed (and not even recommended, apparently!). Makes no sense to me. And like I said, even the 2012+ 8th gens have the shields in place (but are not part of the TSB). Maybe the 2012+ rotors are larger so cooling is not an issue? Not really sure...

EDIT: Nope - front rotors are the same size between older and newer 8th gens... I did notice that my shields have "vents" in them - maybe that is the difference? Like I said, I'm just trying to understand why then would continue to install the shields in newer 8th gens if they aren't needed (and they recommend removing them in order to avoid warping the rotors). Although, it does mention that it's only an issue in rare cases, when you do a lot of "mountain" driving, so I guess that may be why the still install them. They must perform *some* function if the still put them on at the factory (as I believe all cars do). Strange....

Will be interesting to see if it makes any difference in your case.

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The ones I got are ceramic actually and the same part no for the advanced technology ones as the Police Edition ones. My shields had vents in them as well when I removed them. I do alot of stop and go driving, and really hilly in my area, my last set was pulsating after 3 months so time will tell. My girlfriend's mom has an 08 Grand Prix and was flying thru front brakes, and he realized yesterday that he removed them as they were rusty and that he hasn't had to touch them in over a year, so technically it fixed his issue and he didn't even realize it until I said something.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,624
It's been a little over a year since I did the 12.7 brake upgrade. I figured I'd remove the shield while I change the pads and rotors.
As for upgraded control arms ZZP has a set, and also the Moog R series (like you mentioned). The ones Will recommended are the police versions.
Talked to Will and a few from a local page and I'm getting AC Delco control arms with Moog Poly Bushings all around for them, should really help the torque steer.
 

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Your Impala is looking great KG. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #1,627
Got the new purge solenoid thingy under the gas cap swapped out. So far no check engine light! Also swapped out the actuator in the dash. What a pain in the a$$. Only took me about an hour and a half tho. Will be easier next time if I have to do it again. Removing the black inside of the pop down glove box really helped. New control arms with Moog poly bushings, o2 sensor should be here Thursday. Also ordered all the parts to assemble a brand new accumulator housing with the shift kit for my car. Will posted all info needed to make it. If anyone would like a parts list let me know.


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New control arms, and all but one bushing arrived today as well as the o2 sensor. When my tail lights arrived last week the corner of one of them was chipped. Contacted the company and they said they would send a replacement free of charge. Well I got the replacement today and it was for a pair of tail lights. So now I got a brand new spare set if need plus my factory ones.


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Well the swapping of the bushings for the new control arms are a no go, tried and tried and they wouldn't budge with a press for them. So now I might be looking for the red control arms that @silver4door mentioned, just need to find out what kind they are.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,630
Looking for your guys opinions? Got an extra set of Morimoto RGB switchback strips, and wondering where to mount them once I waterproof them, option 1 or 2?



 

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Seeing that rotor brings back memories of my 2011. Those raybestos rotors are great, especially with the pads. Those things can send you threw the windshield. Always had a hard peddle and brake vibration disappeared.
 

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What about an "option 3" where it goes across the "bar" int the middle of the opening? Or, maybe even *behind* the bar, so that it gives a "glow" effect to the entire opening?

As you know, I have those non-foglight opening foglight "grilles" and I've been pondering making that area "glow" by putting some sort of lighting behind the grilles. I also recently installed some chrome trim around them to match the chrome trim around the other grilles:





Also, for what it's worth, you can now get those grilles (in black) for like $28 shipped. I just ordered a set (mine have stainless faces and I dipped them black, but I'd rather have factory-black versions because the dip gets nicked up from time to time). I'm also hoping this version fits a little better (not a huge deal, but the fitment of my current ones is not perfect).

Here is a link if interested - I love the effect these have...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/201089351680

If you have any suggestions on the best way to light up that area from behind (again, to make the whole area "glow" from behind), please let me know! :) Maybe I should just put something inside the back of that bar (it's hollow in the back) so that it causes the whole area to glow at night?

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Ok, I'll definitely let you know - I think they'll be here on Monday. I've become really accustomed to the look they give and would never go without them again - they just give the car a more "finished" look, IMO.

@KG - sorry for the thread hijack - but please do let me know what type of lighting you think would be best to make this area "glow".

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Discussion Starter #1,635
Ok, I'll definitely let you know - I think they'll be here on Monday. I've become really accustomed to the look they give and would never go without them again - they just give the car a more "finished" look, IMO.

@KG - sorry for the thread hijack - but please do let me know what type of lighting you think would be best to make this area "glow".

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To problem JT, like to see others curious as well. Only thing about those covers is will they cover the whole opening? I am also pondering the idea of mounting them behind the "divider" in the middle of the fog light opening, would just be easier to see at night but would achieve the glowing effect. I ordered some 1/2" adhesive lined heat shrink to cover my strips and mount them. They are switchback so it would help. Never noticed the covers before and I think I might buy them. Have any more pictures of your current ones or how there mounted? I also got my fog light area dipped and it's peeling.


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Discussion Starter #1,636
I also ordered my new SMD DD1 for tuning my system. Never CC and o2 sensor should go in this week as well as the control arms.


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They're not really "covers" - they are actually "grilles" - horizontal "slats" - so light would definitely shine through...

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Discussion Starter #1,638
They're not really "covers" - they are actually "grilles" - horizontal "slats" - so light would definitely shine through...

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Awesome. I'll check out your thread for more info. How do they mount? And do they cover the whole opening or no?


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They mount using the bar in the middle of the "non-foglight" openings. Basically, there are bolts mounted to the back of the grilles - one above and one below the bar (on both ends of the grille) - and then you put a metal piece behnd the bar and fasten it down onto the back of the bar using the two bolts. Kinda of hard to explain, but suffice it to say that it mounts using the middle bar...

And yes, it fills the entire opening.

The biggest issue I can see with adding the "glow" effect behind these grilles is that the bar in the middle of the non-foglight opening would almost make the area look like 2 separate areas that are glowing (top and bottom), since the bar would block any light from coming out from that area...

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Discussion Starter #1,640
That's why I was possibly thinking of removing the dip I have, and cutting with my dremel a small, 4 mm cut in the middle of the bar, allowing most of the light from the strip to come out then re dipping it all again. The strip is 7mm wide so it would have enough to sit flush.


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