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Has anyone had battery drain issues when changing the #194 rear tail light bulbs that are in the trunk lid?

Do I also need to put resistors on the #194 red trunk bulbs too? What about the #194 amber front sidemarker lights?

Seems like the battery drain issue only comes up when talking about the reverse lights.

I'm going to put resistors on all of the turn signal bulbs as well as the backup lights, but I was curious about all of the others.

Do the license plate lights need resistors too?
I did NOT have to put load resistors on the plate lights or the 194 trunk tail lights when I replaced them with LED bulbs, only the front and rear turn signals and one reverse light.
 

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No battery drain issues after I changed the license plate bulbs on ours to Zevo LEDs with no resistors, just a straight swap. The rearview mirror dims just fine too. Only other bulbs I changed were the headlights to LED.
 

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And you haven't had anymore battery drain issues?

Did you also change the front sidemarker lights? Or just the front turn signal bulbs?
No more drain problems after 6 months and the car can sit for over a week and starts fine. I did NOT change the front side maker lights, only the front turn signals.

If I remember correctly, I also changed the bulbs to LED inside the car for your feet and the light for inside the trunk. I did not put any load resistors on them either.
 

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I have changed the front side market lights, rear marker lights in the trunk lid, licence plate lights and reverse lights to LED. The only ones that needed load resistors are the backup lights, nothing else needed a resistor.
I have not yet done signals but when I do, they will also get resistors.

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No battery drain issues after I changed the license plate bulbs on ours to Zevo LEDs with no resistors, just a straight swap. The rearview mirror dims just fine too. Only other bulbs I changed were the headlights to LED.
What LEDs did you put into the headlights? Did you manage to fit them inside the weather-sealed cap?

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What LEDs did you put into the headlights? Did you manage to fit them inside the weather-sealed cap?
Morimoto 2 Stroke 2.0
They will fit inside with the cap on and I installed them like that at first but then I found out with the DRL lights on for some reason only 1 headlight would light up so I had to install the anti flicker harness and then I had to cut the cap. They work great though.
More info here
https://www.impalaforums.com/chevy-impala-9th-gen-discussion/1855335-morimoto-2-stroke-2-0-led-bulbs.html
 

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You need red 7440 for the rear turn signals/brake lights, and red 168/194 for the rear tail lights that are in the trunk lid.

You will need 50w 6ohm resistors for the turn/brake lights.

Also need resistors if you replace the backup lights with white 7440.


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What is the difference between using 50W and 21W resistors? Can I use the 21W resistors without the bulbs burning out?
I'm no expert on this, but I used 50w 6ohm resistors and everything seems happy.

My bulbs do NOT hyperflash.

My BCM seems to go to sleep in 10 minutes or less after turning the car off. I'm measuring DC current with my meter on the main wire coming off the battery for that. It's somewhere between 350 and 400 milliohms after turning the car off, but it eventually goes to zero.
 

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Non-LED XENON bulbs

Read the whole thread about all the problems with battery draw and auto-dimming mirrors not working because of LED reverse lights. Has anyone of you had any experience with XENON bulbs or Xtreme HID such as these?
 

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You shouldn't have any issues with those, they are just halogen bulbs.
 
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