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Freestyle Bullfighter
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Discussion Starter #1
I'm looking at having My Lt1 Rebuilt here in around 40,000 miles here (mainly cause its gonna have 200,000 miles (140,000 before me and 60,000 of my own) and I truly don't know the way it was treated pre-me... I'm just thinking complete overhaul.... mabey some stronger piston heads and shafts... nothing toooooo major just a fresh start... I'm just Curious on what a cost range should be, cause I'ma have to start saving NOW cause of my money situation..... ( 2 project vehicles 1 income and major Ideas!
 

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200k really isn't that many miles for an LT1. I have seen plenty pushing 250+, and some that made it to near 300k before the body rusted out. I have a stock 180k engine going back into my 95 Roadmaster, to replace the 180k one that I cracked a piston with.

If you do rebuild it, and want a similar quality to stock, or BETTER... then it will not be a $1,000 rebuild. Think of closer to $2,500- $3,000. If it was my car, I would replace the bearings, timing chain, gasksets, rod bolts, swap the cam and send it back out. The LT1's fuel injection keeps the cylinders for getting washed down with gas at start up, which really cuts down on wear. I pulled the heads off my 85k Roadmaster LT1 engine, and you could still see a hint of the factory cross hatch on the cylinder walls.

I messed up, and drove it with a really bad intake gasket, that caused some issues, and it shot 4 rods out of the side of the block. The other Roadmaster with 180k was drag raced since it had 130k on it. Drag raced hard. It had some fuel injector issues before on the piston that cracked. I think it had been weakened or cracked prior buy running very lean on that piston.

My 94 9C1 has 220k, still strong, burns no oil. The 9C1 my dad had at the local PD had 240k when they took it away. It saw 130mph runs down the highway, and rubber left at stop lights on a weekly basis. Last time I saw it forsale, it had 275k, still the stock engine. On it's 2nd or 3rd trans rebuild though.
 

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To genuinely improve a stock LT1 you are probably looking at $600 pistons if that gives you any indication what it would cost for the whole build. You are blindly assuming the stock stuff is weak or worn out.

The stock shortblock with good heads/cam and proper boltons can support a couple hundred more hp than stock fairly reliably.

Have compression and leakdown tested them up in the 180-227k mile range and found good compression and low leakdown.
A friend cammed his car at 160k, engine is currently in his wife's car with probably about 210k on it, when he took it to a national Impala even his cam only year round car wan within a couple tenths of trailer queen strokers that the Impala community thinks were done well.
 

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Freestyle Bullfighter
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Discussion Starter #4
See I'm already Burning Oil..... badly and I'm having Trouble locating it at all! Making me a very unhappy but determined camper... I will find the problem.... I know its not a cheap rebuild but I'm thinking its the best decision
 

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383 stroker with LT4 heads and LT4 hotcam. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
 

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Freestyle Bullfighter
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Discussion Starter #6
............ Not thinking thats the best thing for this particular beast.... I already have a Heavy Foot..... I'm Happy with the Performance from the LT1..... I was thinking New heads and Connecting Rods.....for the most part that would be the only real "upgrades" I use this as a Daily Driver/Rodeo Travel Rig so I'm also looking to keep the MPG up as high as possible.... I really wanna get to burning oil thing taken care of I'm thinking my heads may be leaking and since I'd essentially be tearing it all apart (or having it done... depending on my Testicular Fortitude after handling a Cummins Swap in my 87 GMC Crew Cab Dually... that I WILL be doing) might as well have it done properly and Correct... Ya Savvy
 

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lol please disregard my last comment lol i was just trying to rile up Dwayne J
 

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Freestyle Bullfighter
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Discussion Starter #8
BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA LOVE IT lol Like I said.... Not Really concerned with the Hp output or weak components.... Just thinking that If the Oil Leak is so far down in the engine... why not just do a rebuild and do it right the first time rather than replace parts until i actually get to the root of the problem and end up spendin the same amount of fundage.... ya dig?
 

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People think I am against strokers which is NOT the case. I am against badly done motors and a LOT of strokers are done with too little budget and the topend gets less attention than it should.

Honestly if not looking for real power, I would get a lower mileage junkyard engine.

These things don't burn oil on mileage, they burn it due to damage. Get an undamaged shortblock and call it good.
 

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Freestyle Bullfighter
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Discussion Starter #10
yeah Round here........ not exactly an option......all the Junkyard stuff is just that junk.....rodded and beat to hell... i'm stuck here in nebraska... I love my engine and the umphhhh i got... just not the burning oil...
 

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Freestyle Bullfighter
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Discussion Starter #11
Finding some good craigs list deals.... mabey a swap isn't sucha bad idear.... gonna have to be after October though hmmmmmmm
 

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I dunno man, that's a long time to put off a motor that's burning oil pretty bad...
 

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Freestyle Bullfighter
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Discussion Starter #13
its a Question of fundage right now..... thats the soonest I could even possibly attempt to buy a different engine... I Just Keep up on Checking my Oil... and adding as I need it.... Its Held up this long... I have a Truck payment till October... then it'll free up bout $500 or so....
 

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right on, I hear that. Have you tried that stop leak stuff for oil leaks?
 

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Freestyle Bullfighter
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Discussion Starter #15
Ya'll have been REALLY Helpful in this and ALL my issues that have come up since i got my clone...... one more lil question..... is it that much more of an issue to Upgrade to an LS1 or LS2 if I decide to go the Swapping Route???
 

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it's def not a drop in affair, you will either have to carve out chunks of the pan, etc, or chunks out of the crossmember, tranny crossmember will have to be modded as well...if you're not interested in going really fast, it's prolly best to just stick with a stockish LT1
 

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Freestyle Bullfighter
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Discussion Starter #17
Highly doubt the answer is yes to the this next question but i'm gonna ask it .... at the Cross-members even Somewhat Compatible???
 

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People think I am against strokers which is NOT the case. I am against badly done motors and a LOT of strokers are done with too little budget and the topend gets less attention than it should.

Honestly if not looking for real power, I would get a lower mileage junkyard engine.

These things don't burn oil on mileage, they burn it due to damage. Get an undamaged shortblock and call it good.
i was more talking about the LT4 edelbrock top end kit lol i swear i have seen so many threads with people talking about getting it and then you chime in lol
 

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The GM LT4 stuff is a bad idea, the Edelbrock stuff is a terrible one. The ONLY Edelbrock part I am aware of being any good for these things is the throttle body, but that is not something I would put on a stockish engine, and even then for 52mm a rebored stocker is a better idea, only go aftermarket for a 58mm on a heads/cam or more setup and at that they need to be modified so the IAC circuit works right.
 
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