[Guest]

I need to know how hard it is to change the distributor cap and rotor button on my LT1. It looks like you have to take off the water pump but I'm not sure. It's something I can do, but I'd just like to know what to exspect. Thanks

 

[Guest]

they do have a rotor. i know, mine went bad too.

yes the w.p. has to be removed. 3 bolts hold the opti to the motor.

check the vent hoses coming off the intake manifold and intake boot. they can clog and cause an opti to go out. w.p. leaking causes them to fail too.

when you put it back in, put a lil oil on the seal in the timing chain cover. that way it won't tear when you put it back together.

 

[Freeway Cruiser]

Pick up the Fel-Pro gasket kit # TCS-45956 give you all the gaskets. Read carefully, for one of the gaskets, Water pump seal goes on dry, and trickey to get on without wrecking it. I used a 1/4 inch drive 10mm deep socket to slide it on the w.p. shaft. And Opti vent harness #12555323 a must.

 

[Guest]

Rough idle after I replaced all my gaskets. Has anyone ever had this experience?

My LT1 5.7 1996 Chevy Impala SS.
I changed all my gaskets and motor mounts and put the distributor back in the same settings and getting a rough idle and motor shaking now. The GM scanner can't pick up anything. I checked for vacuum leaks and nothing.
My mech. did leak fluids down over the distributor when taking the water pump off. Is the distributor that sensitive?
Has anyone ever experience this problem?
Motor only has around 20K miles.
It just has a rough idle and runs good at full throttle.
Can anyone help please? Thanks
Write to my email [email protected]

 

[SinSSter]

When changing distributor, changing gaskets for wp, opti and front main is strongly recommended.

Use a quality delphi or delco opti. Changing just cap and rotor is generally fine as the optical sensor isn't a wear item, but does require a special external torx socket (E4) to remove cap and rotor from housing.

Fairly straight forward project if you take your time and do it in the right order. 2 seals are teflon coated (wp and opti) and MUST be installed dry. Front main seal is rubber and should be installed wet. Minor pita getting the opti seal on, but there are several options on tools that can be used to get the seal inserted correctly.

Not to step on toes on this forum, but the best write-up on the project can be found here:

http://www.impalaclub.com/naisso/Forum2005/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=30984

 

[Buffman]

My LT1 5.7 1996 Chevy Impala SS.
I changed all my gaskets and motor mounts and put the distributor back in the same settings and getting a rough idle and motor shaking now. The GM scanner can't pick up anything. I checked for vacuum leaks and nothing.
My mech. did leak fluids down over the distributor when taking the water pump off. Is the distributor that sensitive?
Has anyone ever experience this problem?
Motor only has around 20K miles.
It just has a rough idle and runs good at full throttle.
Can anyone help please? Thanks
Write to my email [email protected]

make sure ALL plug wires click TWICE (YES two clicks) on the opti.
But possible there could be an iffy seal on your opti that let coolant in.

Best tool for the water pump drive seal is the one I sell for DIRT Cheap. 1000x better than a socket, and 1000x more rugged than the sharpie pen body.

 

[95_9C1]

Best tool for the water pump drive seal is the one I sell for DIRT Cheap. 1000x better than a socket, and 1000x more rugged than the sharpie pen body.

do you have any of these available?