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I'm new to the forum and see lots of guys with diagnostic experience on these engines. I got one that I didn't see in the threads that you may know.
Background: 1995 DCM with 110K miles. Mostly stock. Only had sewer tube intake w/KN Cone filter, home plate removal (hockey puck), Throttle body bypass, Spintech mufflers. Exhaust Manifold Bolt at RT Rear broke w/ no sound of leak but slight carboning in the area indicates possible leak. Runs pretty strong but intermittently lags (I think it's sensor/PCM). That's another story.
Used to averages about 16 mpg. I did get a 21 mpg hwy just before seafoaming it last month but now the mileage dropped. Only getting about 13-14 mpg with mixed driving. Maybe fouled the plugs/O2 sensor. But my question today is.....Symptoms follow:
Check Engine Light comes on intermittently, usually when I'm just tooling through the neighborhood (not at hwy speed or "spirited driving") and the secondary (left side) fan turns on no matter what the ambient air temp is. CEL usually goes away when the engine is turned off and restarted.
I had a scanner put on it and it reads DTC 32 for EGR. I can't find my manual that tells me how to diagnose this. I had a guy try to diagnose it and he put a vacuum gage on the Intake Manifold side of the EGR solenoid and got vacuum, then he checked for vacuum between the solenoid and the EGR valve and there was no vacuum. He said its the solenoid.
I thought to properly check the solenoid you had to apply voltage to the connector so simulate a PCM signal?
The part is not too expensive but don't want to start to throw parts at it. Should I plan to remove the EGR valve and tube to clean it too?
Your advice is welcomed. If I don't respond right away it's because I'm headed out to buy an EGR Solenoid in a bit.
Thanks,
Background: 1995 DCM with 110K miles. Mostly stock. Only had sewer tube intake w/KN Cone filter, home plate removal (hockey puck), Throttle body bypass, Spintech mufflers. Exhaust Manifold Bolt at RT Rear broke w/ no sound of leak but slight carboning in the area indicates possible leak. Runs pretty strong but intermittently lags (I think it's sensor/PCM). That's another story.
Used to averages about 16 mpg. I did get a 21 mpg hwy just before seafoaming it last month but now the mileage dropped. Only getting about 13-14 mpg with mixed driving. Maybe fouled the plugs/O2 sensor. But my question today is.....Symptoms follow:
Check Engine Light comes on intermittently, usually when I'm just tooling through the neighborhood (not at hwy speed or "spirited driving") and the secondary (left side) fan turns on no matter what the ambient air temp is. CEL usually goes away when the engine is turned off and restarted.
I had a scanner put on it and it reads DTC 32 for EGR. I can't find my manual that tells me how to diagnose this. I had a guy try to diagnose it and he put a vacuum gage on the Intake Manifold side of the EGR solenoid and got vacuum, then he checked for vacuum between the solenoid and the EGR valve and there was no vacuum. He said its the solenoid.
I thought to properly check the solenoid you had to apply voltage to the connector so simulate a PCM signal?
The part is not too expensive but don't want to start to throw parts at it. Should I plan to remove the EGR valve and tube to clean it too?
Your advice is welcomed. If I don't respond right away it's because I'm headed out to buy an EGR Solenoid in a bit.
Thanks,