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Discussion Starter #1
Good day,

This thread is simply to encourage you to change your ATF. I strongly recommend that you change it sooner than later (not at 156,000KM).

It's very easy and require simple tools.
- drip pan (at least 6 liters of capacity)
- 11mm socket + ratchet
- long reach funnel
- GM A/C Delco Mercon VI (at least 5 liters)
- Lucas ATF conditioner (my car, and all my fleet uses Lucas lubrications products), 591ml (20oz)
- rags and cardboard to minimize spills

Let your engine cool off for 60 minutes after operation, and drain your transmission. it will drain approx. 5.2 to 5.5 liters. Just add 5 liters to the funnel, and add from there after running the engine for 5 minutes and shift between R and D positions.

Why changing sooner than GM recommendation?
- easy to change and no cracking open the pan and change filter.
- cheap to change
- first drainage, you will she metal on the magnet drain plug
- don't believe the high intervals recommendation.

Here are some pictures, this will not show the step by step, but shows the items and the ATF condition.

On the sample pictures, the first (on the left) is brand new ATF from the bottle, the second was the fluid from my first change (25,651km) the second one (Yesterdays change) was change at 51,937km.

Note: Since I got the car in 2013, it's been expose to a lot of 1/4 miles runs (at least a minimum of 100 passes per summer). But, even if you do not race and it's you're daily commute car, change the fluid.

Cheers and sorry if all the numbers are in the metric system!
 

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Nice post! Just a small correction - it's Dexron ATF fluid, not Mercron (that is for Fords, I believe).

Also, if you are going to verify the transmission fluid level with the dipstick, you MUST check the level when the transmission fluid is between 180F and 200F in order to get an accurate reading. This is very important, because if you check the fluid level when cold, you will end up overfilling the fluid, which is VERY bad for these transmissions.

You can check the transmission fluid temperature with an OBD-II bluetooth adapter and Torque Pro app (Android) or with HPTuners. If you have no way to check fluid temp, just make sure you drive the car for at least 30-45 minutes before checking the fluid level.

I think changing the fluid every 15k miles is a little overkill, but it certainly can't hurt either. Personally, I think that changing it every 30k-50k miles should be more that sufficient.

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Discussion Starter #3
jtrosky,

you are correct, sorry about the type-O (Dexron VI), Mercon for the Fords.

Also, I assume people would know about the level ground and not to overfill, this was not a step-by-step procedure, but more to simply encourage a active preventive maintenance for the transmission, especially if you think she starting to slip.

I was surprise of the amount of metal debris on the magnet the first time I flush the system. I'm not sure if it was the Lucas, but the second time no visible metal debris was on the magnet. I will re-do the flush in about 25,000 KM.

:beer:
 

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Do one better, if you are lower mileage, find a shop that has a transmission flush machine. It completely purges, cleans, and refills the trans.

Doing it on your own, you still aren't getting the fluid that is left in the torque converter and that is where all the wear/sheering on the fluid is taking place. That is usually a couple quarts right there.

The purge machine gets it all. In the interim of the process (after the old fluid has been scavenged, and the cleaner run through), you can still have the pan dropped and replace the filter too.

I DO NOT recommend this for higher mileage transmissions or old transmissions. In this case, the purging process may knock some sediment loose that has built up over years of use and mileage, then impact shift solenoids and could lodge in fluid pathways leading to higher PSI and harder shifting.

Then of course use DexVI. DexVI supercedes all previous Dexron trans fluids. Unless otherwise noted (some manuals like T56's specifically say to use ONLY DexIII, but that isn't applicable here).
 

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Discussion Starter #6
CMN...,

I'm not a huge fan of the transmission flush machine, sometimes, the cost is insanely high (in my region it is), and, for the 6T70 transmission, the filter does not required to be replace at low mileage. But I do agree a quart of fluid can be easily left in the TC.

I will have my dealer do the schedule maintenance of the transmission at 155,000ish KM, the warranty ends at 160,000KM (5 years). And I'm sure they will up-sale me the flush transmission treatment, and I will say yes to it.

I also agree, that if you never change your ATF fluid and you are over 160,000KM, don't change it, and sell your car before you need to re-haul the tranny!
 

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CMN...,

I'm not a huge fan of the transmission flush machine, sometimes, the cost is insanely high (in my region it is), and, for the 6T70 transmission, the filter does not required to be replace at low mileage. But I do agree a quart of fluid can be easily left in the TC.

I will have my dealer do the schedule maintenance of the transmission at 155,000ish KM, the warranty ends at 160,000KM (5 years). And I'm sure they will up-sale me the flush transmission treatment, and I will say yes to it.

I also agree, that if you never change your ATF fluid and you are over 160,000KM, don't change it, and sell your car before you need to re-haul the tranny!
Well, I may be that dumba** that has gone 100,000mi (160,000KM) (mostly highway or constant RPM driving) without servicing my transmission and there's been no signs of problems, Getting it in soon for at least a fluid and filter change though!
 

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Glad to see that your trans has held up to a couple hundred 1/4mi passes. Makes me feel a lot better about my transmission lasting. My only issue with changing out the transmission fluid is disposing of the used fluid after. Motor oil is easy to give away....or at least it was when crude was at $100+ a barrel. Where does used ATF go?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
irockid86,

it's hard to answer your question simply because I'm in a different country, but, for my case, I can return-it almost to every garage and Canadian Tires (similar to Pep Boys, Auto Zone). there is a program in this country, and especially in my province that all the garage get money from a recycle oil company (Gov program).

I would Google your city/state about recycle oil depot, I think you would be amaze of the amount of locations that would gladly take for free your used oil.
 

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I take my used oil/transmission fluid to AutoZone. Basically, you just walk in with your used oil/ATF fluid and set it on a cart that have setup for it. I don't think that they care if it's oil or ATF fluid (although I never asked!).

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How do you use the Lucas additive in this process? Do you add all 20oz after you've added your 5 liters of ATF?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
gbd,

That's how I do it, because I lift one side of the car a bit higher, I'm able to drain about 5.6 liters of ATF. So, after I clean the magnet, I simply add the AC Delcon VI and the Lucas.

For the first time, and if you do not have a container that shows you the quantity of fluid, I would recommend to only add 5 liters, run the engine/easy drive for 10 minutes, and re-check your ATF level.

I do not know the mileage your at, but the transmission will run smoother (and help a tiny, tiny bit regarding the gear hunting).

Good luck
 

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Did this on my 2013 LTZ today with 44k miles. Old fluid was a little dark and smelled "dirty".

Refilled with Valvoline Dexron VI full synthetic - it was a reasonable price via Amazon.

I also got the BAFX OBDII bluetooth adapter and Torque Pro, after adding the GM PIDs I was able to read the transmission temp to set the level correctly. In practice with the engine at operating temp, a 15 minute drive with some hills and a couple short bursts up them in 2nd and 3rd accelerating from 30 to 45mph soon got the trans fluid temp to 200F on 55F day no problem.

Put 5 quarts back in, may have slightly over filled it with just that as it measures into the word hot just above the crosshatch area.

Since the old fluid was dark, I'll probably do another drain and refill in a couple weeks to dilute the old stuff more, and start with 4.5 quarts first.

Shifting noticeably smoother too!
 

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Does anyone here know what the factory torque spec is for the drain plug. Snugged it here at the first change, felt like it could keep going but stopped with not knowing did not want to strip the threads. Had me nervous, but checked often the first couple thousand miles after the drain and fill and kept a clean piece of cardboard under the car to make sure no drips.

Also no shavings on the plug here at the first change and fluid was not nearly as dark as pictures here, that was with over 100,000 miles. Probably gonna drain and fill this afternoon after our mothers day meal. Would sure be nice to know an exact torque spec, have found nothing in the owners manual or online.
 

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Does anyone here know what the factory torque spec is for the drain plug. Snugged it here at the first change, felt like it could keep going but stopped with not knowing did not want to strip the threads. Had me nervous, but checked often the first couple thousand miles after the drain and fill and kept a clean piece of cardboard under the car to make sure no drips.

Also no shavings on the plug here at the first change and fluid was not nearly as dark as pictures here, that was with over 100,000 miles. Probably gonna drain and fill this afternoon after our mothers day meal. Would sure be nice to know an exact torque spec, have found nothing in the owners manual or online.
It's 106 in. lbs - per @bart77 (official GM "know everything" guy!) - from this post:

[ame]http://www.impalaforums.com/showthread.php?p=3014177[/ame]

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Does anyone here know what the factory torque spec is for the drain plug. Snugged it here at the first change, felt like it could keep going but stopped with not knowing did not want to strip the threads. Had me nervous, but checked often the first couple thousand miles after the drain and fill and kept a clean piece of cardboard under the car to make sure no drips.
I just changed mine yesterday. I had the same feeling when tightening the drain plug. Never seemed like it wanted to stop. I got nervous and just stopped tightening it. Started the car up and made sure nothing was leaking. I would sure hate to strip that hole.
 

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Drained and filled again yesterday afternoon here too. Car has just shy of 123,000(mostly interstate cruising @72-74), this was the second trans "service". Drained out 5 qts, put in 5 qts castrol transmax dex 6. Fluid drained was still pink. Drain plug again was clean, absolutely no shavings. Think it will be good for another 20k+ before changing again.

Set my torque wrench to 106 inch lbs and never got a felt click before stopping, put my ratchet back on and tested snugness and stopped where it was.
 
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