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so i got an issue maybe someone here can help, i have a 2015 impala and myself used to install car stereos for a living for 10+ years.

So here is the scenario. added a custom 2 10" subwoofer box sealed, with a 800RMS amp and am using an Audio Control Lc2i line out converter.

Ive taped into both the front mids and I've also tried the rear speakers for signal to the Lc2i.

My issue is no matter what i do it basically sounds like the sub's are not even on , sounds more than like a decent pair of factory 6x9's. When the trunk is open and I'm listening standing behind the car the subs sound like they will sound awesome when i get in the car , but they don't. I did cut all the mic input wires on the factory amp and its didn't seem to help.

It almost sounds as if the sound cancellation is still active or it sounds like when a speaker is out of phase (subs moving a lot but not much sound)

Like I've said I've done this for years and have dealt with older Chevy models with Bass roll off and its has NEVER sounded this bad.

Anyone have any other ideas on what it could be?
 

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so i got an issue maybe someone here can help, i have a 2015 impala and myself used to install car stereos for a living for 10+ years.

So here is the scenario. added a custom 2 10" subwoofer box sealed, with a 800RMS amp and am using an Audio Control Lc2i line out converter.

Ive taped into both the front mids and I've also tried the rear speakers for signal to the Lc2i.

My issue is no matter what i do it basically sounds like the sub's are not even on , sounds more than like a decent pair of factory 6x9's. When the trunk is open and I'm listening standing behind the car the subs sound like they will sound awesome when i get in the car , but they don't. I did cut all the mic input wires on the factory amp and its didn't seem to help.

It almost sounds as if the sound cancellation is still active or it sounds like when a speaker is out of phase (subs moving a lot but not much sound)

Like I've said I've done this for years and have dealt with older Chevy models with Bass roll off and its has NEVER sounded this bad.

Anyone have any other ideas on what it could be?
For starters, the only speakers providing bass in these cars are the front door 6x9s, and the rear deck 6x9s (on Centerpoint models), so the wiring for those would be your jump-off point. All the other speakers are tweeters or coaxials...

For mine (only the 6 speaker), installing a Kicker PT250 self-powered sub, I tapped directly into the output wires for the front door speakers for my sub input- no line out converters, etc. I ran power from the battery, and remote power from the rear seat 12v outlet. It all works just fine. It's amazing what a difference it made in the stock sound...

I used the "high power" input selection on my sub/amp, as opposed to either bypassing the factory amp entirely, or using an LOC to drop the amped signal back down to RCA levels. I know purists love signal direct from whatever head unit they are using, but in my case, it seemed silly to "un-amplify" the signal just to re-amp it.

I would suggest trying going direct into the amp by tapping the front door speakers if your amp has the capability to take high level inputs and see what happens.

To Dominguez805- I believe only certain factory ordered models like police/civil service packages have batteries in the trunk. Mine's a 15 LTZ, and the only batteries in my trunk are in my flashlight...:eek:k3:
 

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i tried using the direct no LOC connection, however on this amp it is simply a RCA connector on one end and the other is simply wires you connect to the factory speaker for signal, this did not work out well either.

I also have the standard 6 speaker system. I will try and verify which speakers i am currently tapped into but I'm pretty sure its the fronts.

Also just for more information my impala also has a battery in the trunk, behind small panel on drives side trunk, however this is only to ru the basic systems while the car "shuts off" during idling. i wouldn't connect it to an amp as you always risk the amp potentially draining that small battery during idle which in turn could one day ruin it for good.

Mine is ran directly to the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
i tried using the direct no LOC connection, however on this amp it is simply a RCA connector on one end and the other is simply wires you connect to the factory speaker for signal, this did not work out well either.

I also have the standard 6 speaker system. I will try and verify which speakers i am currently tapped into but I'm pretty sure its the fronts.

Also just for more information my impala also has a battery in the trunk, behind small panel on drives side trunk, however this is only to ru the basic systems while the car "shuts off" during idling. i wouldn't connect it to an amp as you always risk the amp potentially draining that small battery during idle which in turn could one day ruin it for good.

Mine is ran directly to the battery.
Ok this is what i noticed after installing the LOC converter it will stay on for about 3 min after the car is off and the radio is off kind of wierd can't figure that out because i have the remote wire coming from the cig lighter below the radio but the amp and converter shuts off so im happy :beer:, the other thing is with the LOC converter you have to have a 12vcd goin to it directly ie the cig lighter outlet then run a remote wire to the amp that is the only way the LOC converter will work. i have mine installed and it works great and i didn't cut the mics that r in the car because i didn't notice any difference in the sound the mics r mainly there for the auto volume for when you accelerate on the high way to drown out the road noise, and if you have that small battery in the trunk mainly on the 2.5L engine that is for the electronics ie ur 120 vac outlet in the back if you have it. For the V6 we don't have that small battery.
I hooked into the rear deck speakers for the audio signal. I would show you the pictures that i have but im on vacation and the pics r at the house and after i get back from vacation ill make a video showing where i tapped into the wires at the factory bose amp..... and i have the wiring info for the 11 speaker bose only, sorry to those with the 6 speaker system....

If you have any questions or are having issues with the audio hookup PM with ur issues and show me ur pics with ur setup alot easier to trouble shoot with pictures.
:beer:

:eek:k3:
 

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i tried using the direct no LOC connection, however on this amp it is simply a RCA connector on one end and the other is simply wires you connect to the factory speaker for signal, this did not work out well either.

I also have the standard 6 speaker system. I will try and verify which speakers i am currently tapped into but I'm pretty sure its the fronts.

Also just for more information my impala also has a battery in the trunk, behind small panel on drives side trunk, however this is only to ru the basic systems while the car "shuts off" during idling. i wouldn't connect it to an amp as you always risk the amp potentially draining that small battery during idle which in turn could one day ruin it for good.

Mine is ran directly to the battery.
You must have the 4 cylinder. Mine's a 6. No battery in the trunk, just the factory (although labeled Bose) amp, behind the trunk liner on the passenger side. Sorry about that...

Either way, good plan not using your trunk battery on that one.

The wires I tapped into were in the "bottom" 8-pin connector on the amp- right front: yellow=positive, yellow/black=negative
left front: blue=positive, brown/blue=negative

IF those wires don't correspond, the easiest way to find out would be by looking in the rubber "boot" that runs from the front door pillar into the front door. On the door side should be smallish (smaller than the body side) rectangular piece. If you gently push that into the door, the groove that holds the piece will come loose. You can then kinda fold or squish it to pull it out of the door. Once you do, you should be able to see the wires that the boot is protecting. That's how I confirmed which wires went where on mine. The speaker wires should be easy to recognize, since they are a heavier gauge wire, and are twisted together.

To put the boot back, just push the "inside lip" back into the door. Might take a bit of wiggling, but it will go. Just give the boot a pull to see if it is seated all the way...

As for why you aren't getting any signal to your subs, I hate to ask a stupid question, but do you have your LOC hooked up to the battery with a 1amp fuse as well, and properly grounded? (there are very handy grounding points on the inside of each fender) You shouldn't need the "main" output nor control settings, so I'd leave them alone. Is the fuse on the amp or by the positive battery connection still good?

Not sure what else to say without knowing the exact amp and sub set-up you are using.

(Wizetek posted at the same time. Good info there too!)
 

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i am hooked up to the those speaker wires you mentioned. Also i am getting signal to the LOC and i get sound out of the sub but when i am sitting in the car with everything closed you can barely even tell that the subs are playing. but they are on, as you can fold the seat down and see them moving a lot!

the mics can make a difference in the car. the car listens to itself and recreates a reversed frequency of any extra noise it hears to cancel out those wavelength frequencies to quiet down the cabin.
 

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Could someone confirm this diagram?
As far as I can tell, that is correct. The red/purple and black wire are spots 4 and 8 on the eight-pin connector, same one as the front door speakers. That said, I would definitely run separate power straight to the battery under the hood on an additional amp.

radioactive77- The noise cancellation shouldn't have any effect on music. The way it works is like an audio filter. It looks for very specific bands of consistent (not rhythmic) sound frequencies associated with road noise (tire hum/buzz, wind, panel vibration) and plays them back through the speakers 180 out of phase from the mics, lessening their audible impact. The Bose noise cancellation headphones work much the same way, but have an easier time, since they don't need to distinguish "inside noise" from "outside noise"... Either way, the NC couldn't cancel out your subs entirely.

Assuming you have your gain and crossover set even close, it almost sounds like either you have your "fade" control way back, or your subs are out of phase with the rest of your speakers. In a sealed sub enclosure, out of phase subs will still move like the are "pumping", but they are really "pulling", and the air moving is just moving inside the box. If you know your positives and negatives are good from the factory amp to the sub inputs, the subs may be wired 180 from the rest. Try switching the pos and neg input wires into the sub enclosure and see if that helps.

BTW, for anyone wondering, the noise cancellation is an entirely separate animal from "speed sensitive volume", which basically just increases the output volume of your head unit as the car goes faster. It seems that the increase happens centered on, but not exactly at, the 10 incriments on the speedometer- 10, 20, 30, etc... Mine doesn't really become noticeable until about 30mph and up.
 

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i already verified phase. I checked and re-checked that when this first happened. Checked inside the box and also verfied each coil (running Dual coil subs) Also switched the wires at the amp to reverse phase with the car and still sounded the same but got worst when it was truly reversed phase.

I will have to re-verify everything although i have done it already, If you claim the noise cancellation wont affect it then im not sure what the issue is , maybe a bad Audio control unit although when i installed the lc2i it did improve over a standard LOC.

Its crazy also because if you sit in the cabin with the trunk open it dont sound to bad but as soon as you close the trunk the sound seems to disappear
 

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Weird. Pretty much out of ideas, except what direction the cones are pointing. I would think that closing the trunk would help.

On mine, even 100 watts into a single 10, aiming from left fender towards right, can wiggle the mirrors at well less than half volume coming from the head unit.

My EQ is set treb+3, mid+4/5, bass+2/3. Still need to dial it in a bit to get more mid bass from the front woofers, but it definitely has noticeable presence.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Well here's an update on the Sub-woofers performance in my car. Its great the only problem is that if I push the system the rear deck and truck have alot of rattle :( now I guess its time to looking into sound proofing the truck space to get rid of some of the rattle. So the mics don't effect the sound system allows the bass to my subs I couldn't be happier :D
 

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Hello, I was wondering if the rear deck has holes for 6x9 speakers standard on each vehicle. I know the Bose system has the 6x9's in the rear deck. I was thinking maybe I could add some, if there were already holes for them in the rear deck. And also , is there a remote wire connected to the factory amp and could I splice that wire to run to an amp for a couple of ten inch subs. Thanks to anyone who could help.
 

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I'm also having this almost no sound out of sub experience. Sub is installin a 2015 impala with the standard 6 speaker set up. I first wired my amps high level input directly to the rear door speaker wires to the factory amp green connector pins 15/7 LR and 14/6 RR. Only get sound out the sub with gains way up and volume set high. Now i have wired in a LOC to factory amp 8pin grey connector pins 7/3 LF and 6/2 RF to pick up the front door speaker signals. Then from the LOC out to sub amp RCA input. Still only get sound out the sub if gains set high and volume cranked up. Have not hooked the front door speaker wires (minus the LOC) to the high level input on the amp. I'll try that when i get a minute.
 

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Does the LOC have a volume control on it? When I first installed mine, it was really quite, looking at the back there was two adjusters "hidden" and we're all the way down. Turning them up fixed it. What is the exact LOC your using?


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Using one of those Walmart Scosche LOC's. I have adjusted the L and R gains on it. Sound does increase as the gains turn up but not much.

Gonna do a little testing tonight. To see if my amp, sub, or signal to the amp.
 

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Found a loose ground at the amp. Played with the amp gains with a good bass song and she came to life. Bumpin now. LOC is connected to the front door speaker wires at the amp in the trunk (6 speaker car). I wish I had a great fix for ya'll but we basically snugged up the AMP ground, took amp to speaker wiring apart and put back to gether. Sundown 12" SA powered by Sundown SAE-600D amp in home built 2 cubic foot box tuned at 35hz works well.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Hey guys/gals, well after having the system installed i have started to notice a delay on the bass line response, pretty much what i'm talking about is that as soon as the beat hits it takes to the next beat for it to kick in. Now I did not cut the mics out of the system because when the bass is going it stays for the entire song. well at least with most songs. I'm just wondering from the ppl that have cut there mic wires if they have noticed a lag response on the bass side of the song,

i have 2 12" kenwoods in 2 ported boxes at 1.6 cuft for the spec of the subs
hifonics brx2000.10
AudioControl LC2I 2-Channel Line Out Converter and Subwoofer Control

Hopefully someone that has cut the wires can tell me if they're system...

wize
 
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