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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,



So our new to us 14' impala started throwing some fault messages for Stabilitrak, steering assist, and just tonight the rear parking assist. After a little investigating it sounds like it's a common issue with the encoder ring's failing and causing the issues with the above mentioned systems in the car...why GM would make the encoder ring completely exposed is beyond me but that's a whole nother' topic. I'm not showing any codes (normal parts store readers) but I took a look under the car and saw the right rear hub's encoder ring had a chunk missing from it so I'm assuming that is my issue. If it was summer I might let it go a bit longer but in the winter months, with snow and ice around I'd prefer the ABS & power steering to be operational, especially with my wife driving the car around with our kiddo in the back seat.



I'm seeing many different brands of wheel hubs but there's one that has me interested that's made by Raybestos that looks to have the tone ring and sensor covered up with the pick off encapsulated in epoxy. Supposedly the entire sensing ring and pick off is sealed to the elements...Has anyone installed this type of hub? Is it a direct remove and replace? I'd assume the speed sensor gets removed from the old hub and the new one would plug into the original harness?



Also, I'm getting mixed signals on the hub bolts. Are the really a one time use? As well as the control arm and shock mount bolt? Seems a bit extreme to me that you can't reuse hub bolts unless they are torqued to yield to an extreme amount of torque.



Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.



Thanks!
 

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i did both rear bearings on my 14 one was growling and i couldn't tell which one it was, so i guessed--poorly. it was the other side

ended up doing both. what a pita

the hubs were corroded into place and had to beat them out. i ended up taking off the entire assembly (pita as well...)

got em back together, and have not fallen off yet...i use the old bolts. they have a odd torque procedure--i dont recall how it went, but it wasn't just cranking it tight. maybe that procedure affects the bolts or something...dont know offhand.

if there an "easy" way t replace them i am all ears...
 

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Also, I'm getting mixed signals on the hub bolts. Are the really a one time use? As well as the control arm and shock mount bolt? Seems a bit extreme to me that you can't reuse hub bolts unless they are torqued to yield to an extreme amount of torque.
While I would seem to agree that a bolt should not fail, with my wife and kids riding in our car daily it is not worth the potential risk to me. I bought new bolts and torqued them to the spec with each hub replacement.

Interestingly enough the hub assy the dealer replaced on our car appeared they used the old bolts and put red loctite on them.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the replies. I'll go ahead and order new bolts too... probably don't have too but it's cheap insurance. I can't see all 3 failing but what's $15 in bolts for piece of mind. From what I've looked up the torque on the hub bolts are 66 ft lbs + 75 degrees. Not a crazy amount of torque but enough for a little 18mm bolt.

I'm sure they are corroded in being a Midwest car. My only hope is they've been replaced once before we got the car so the initial removal has already been done. Who knows. I fully plan on having to beat them out.

My other question is, we're seeing all these messages on start up of the car while it's still in park. Would the broken speed ring still cause this or is there a bad ground somewhere? I'm curious how it knows it's damaged without the car moving unless it's still latched from when it failed and won't reset until it senses the new ring is installed and the system resets itself.

Just hoping this takes care of those issues when it gets replaced.
 

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Messages such as? If its stabilitrak, power steering, rear cross traffic and abs then my guess would be speed ring. All the lights should go out after the new one is installed and you drive around just a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Messages such as? If its stabilitrak, power steering, rear cross traffic and abs then my guess would be speed ring. All the lights should go out after the new one is installed and you drive around just a bit.
Currently in getting "service stabilitrak" "service power steering assist" and just last night we got "park assist disabled" with an error message on the rear back up screen.

The right rear speed ring is broken but my concern was whether or not I have another issue(bad ground or broken wire) somewhere in the system since the messages come on right when you start the car and its still parked. Only thing I can think of is that it's reading a small induced voltage through the speed rings and with one broken its not getting the signal. Or the simple fact it could be latched in the ecu and won't reset until it sees the proper sign wave.

Either way I'm replacing it tonight or this weekend. Talking 50 degrees here so I can work in my shop without my heater turned on :eek:k3: Found a Moog unit at advanced Auto with a 40% off online coupon. Brought it down to $120. I just hope it lasts longer than the oem ones that I keep reading about failing over and over.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Got it installed tonight after a continuous barrage of cuss words and beating the living sh*t out of the hub it finally gave me just enough room to get the tip of my pry bar between the hub an the knuckle and pry it out. Never seen something so stuck in place in all the years wrenching. I bought new bolts but the existing ones were no way torqued to the 66 Ft lb +75 degree spec, everything came loose like it's been removed before so I was optimistic this hub would come off easy...not the case.



Good news is the new hub fixed the issue. Sad thing is this bearing still had life left in it but the speed ring was the culprit. Whats a guy to do. Thanks GM engineering.
 

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If you have to change any in the future, use a slide-hammer/axle puller. Makes things MUCH easier and saves time. Lots of time.
 

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If you have to change any in the future, use a slide-hammer/axle puller. Makes things MUCH easier and saves time. Lots of time.
That's a good idea. Another thing I recommend on the rears is a stiff 1½ inch putty knife. Maybe sharpen the edge a bit, if necessary. I hammered that in between the bearing and the knuckle in several places around the circumference to open a bit of a gap for inserting a pry bar. I live well below the rust belt, but found the rear hubs on my 2007 SS to be stuck tight in the knuckles. I imagine, up in the snow belt, there will be lots more corrosion locking them in.

When I installed the new ones, I applied a coat of rust inhibitor, in case I ever need to pull them out again.

Doug

.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
A hub puller would work perfect for the front but there's nothing to push against since there's no rear axle. I'll try the putty knife trick if I have to do the other side, which I'm sure I will. Not sure a slide hammer would have touched this thing, it was corroded on there extremely tight. I thought I had a chisel for my air hammer but I couldn't find it, I think that would have helped get a bit of space between the knuckle and hub.
I tried a steel pipe inside the hub and jacked up on it too thinking it would help pry it off but all it did was compress the shock. What seemed to help the most was using a junk vise grips on the hub face and whacking it with my dead blow... overt and over and over. Once i reinstalled everything I coated the hub with anti seize in case I need to replace it again since we plan to keep this car for the long haul.

The speed ring only had about an inch chunk missing, it looks like it lost a bit more from all the pounding getting the hub out
 

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The TTY stuff is about fast cheap manufacturing. Not saying it is bad, just that it is meant for automation.
 

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The TTY stuff is about fast cheap manufacturing. Not saying it is bad, just that it is meant for automation.
I get that, but as many problems they've had with bearing failures on all the sedan lines... as they all use the same hub assy, its pretty clear the supplier made an inferior product. Things are designed to fail now (planned obsolescence) instead of the other way around. It's about how cheap you can make a product to last a certain amount of service life. After that its on the owners dime to fix and or replace.
 

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A hub puller would work perfect for the front but there's nothing to push against since there's no rear axle.
A slide hammer is the way to do it. Works on front and back, saves a lot of work and headaches. You could probably find one at Harbor Freight for Cheap or rent one.

 
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