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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Everyone,

Fairly often when I turn the wheel all the way over to the left at low speeds my ABS will fire and make a noise. It's really odd.

I'm curious if anyone has any thoughts on what this might be?

Frayed wiring harness or something?

Anyone heard of this? No codes are showing.
 

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Hey Everyone,

Fairly often when I turn the wheel all the way over to the left at low speeds my ABS will fire and make a noise. It's really odd.

I'm curious if anyone has any thoughts on what this might be?

Frayed wiring harness or something?

Anyone heard of this? No codes are showing.

I previous owned a 2008, 2011 & 2012 Impala LTZ - purchased new. I now own a 2014 Impala 2LTZ, purchased new.

It is common for the 8th generation Impala models to have the problem you’re experiencing. The LF and RF wheel speed sensor wiring harness is inside a plastic conduit, which is fastened to the suspension with metal clips.

Turning of the front wheels / suspension stretches and flexes the wiring, which chafes the wiring harness - causing an intermittent engagement. No codes are set.

GM sells pigtail wiring harnesses to repair the problem - not universal ones, but specific to certain years and models.

You should closely examine the wiring inside the plastic conduit to determine if there are any breaks in the wiring or chafing. Sometimes it is hard to find.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hey Everyone,

Fairly often when I turn the wheel all the way over to the left at low speeds my ABS will fire and make a noise. It's really odd.

I'm curious if anyone has any thoughts on what this might be?

Frayed wiring harness or something?

Anyone heard of this? No codes are showing.

I previous owned a 2008, 2011 & 2012 Impala LTZ - purchased new. I now own a 2014 Impala 2LTZ, purchased new.

It is common for the 8th generation Impala models to have the problem you’re experiencing. The LF and RF wheel speed sensor wiring harness is inside a plastic conduit, which is fastened to the suspension with metal clips.

Turning of the front wheels / suspension stretches and flexes the wiring, which chafes the wiring harness - causing an intermittent engagement. No codes are set.

GM sells pigtail wiring harnesses to repair the problem - not universal ones, but specific to certain years and models.

You should closely examine the wiring inside the plastic conduit to determine if there are any breaks in the wiring or chafing. Sometimes it is hard to find.


Thank you, I'll report back!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hey Everyone,

Fairly often when I turn the wheel all the way over to the left at low speeds my ABS will fire and make a noise. It's really odd.

I'm curious if anyone has any thoughts on what this might be?

Frayed wiring harness or something?

Anyone heard of this? No codes are showing.

I previous owned a 2008, 2011 & 2012 Impala LTZ - purchased new. I now own a 2014 Impala 2LTZ, purchased new.

It is common for the 8th generation Impala models to have the problem you’re experiencing. The LF and RF wheel speed sensor wiring harness is inside a plastic conduit, which is fastened to the suspension with metal clips.

Turning of the front wheels / suspension stretches and flexes the wiring, which chafes the wiring harness - causing an intermittent engagement. No codes are set.

GM sells pigtail wiring harnesses to repair the problem - not universal ones, but specific to certain years and models.

You should closely examine the wiring inside the plastic conduit to determine if there are any breaks in the wiring or chafing. Sometimes it is hard to find.
I took the wheel off and looked at the wiring and cannot see any chaffing or any other obvious damage.

I had my car in for other work today and the shop experienced the same issue and quoted me $700 for the repair essentially explaining what you just did.

Have you seen any how-to videos? Or posts?

And do you have a site you buy these pigtails from?

Thank you for your responses.
 

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I took the wheel off and looked at the wiring and cannot see any chaffing or any other obvious damage.

I had my car in for other work today and the shop experienced the same issue and quoted me $700 for the repair essentially explaining what you just did.

Have you seen any how-to videos? Or posts?

And do you have a site you buy these pigtails from?

Thank you for your responses.


Often the metal wiring breaks inside the insulation from flexing and is hard to detect. Look for any areas which seem to be worn from repeated bending (from wheels turning side to side) - or for any areas where the harness and the black plastic conduit is crimped using a metal band.

I rarely watch videos and rarely search for them.

The various pigtails are VIN specific, so I don’t have any web sites to check for you.

You could take your VIN to the a GM / Chevrolet part’s department at a dealer and have them look up the part for you (to sell to you or order).

When I replaced one on my 2012 Impala LTZ (no longer have vehicle), the pigtail harness was about $35-40 (about four years ago?).

I you are mechanically inclined, you could buy both left and right pigtails, and replace both. $700 - wow.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Trosky, did you splice the new wire in to avoid having to thread the old wire through the engine bay? I'm wondering why you didn't just replace the whole wire?
 

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Trosky, did you splice the new wire in to avoid having to thread the old wire through the engine bay? I'm wondering why you didn't just replace the whole wire?
Threading anything along the back of the engine bay will be a miserable job because there are so many obstructions to your working areas.

Splicing the wire works if it's done correctly. There's no need to spend an entire afternoon fixing it when an hour will yield the same results.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Trosky, did you splice the new wire in to avoid having to thread the old wire through the engine bay? I'm wondering why you didn't just replace the whole wire?
Threading anything along the back of the engine bay will be a miserable job because there are so many obstructions to your working areas.

Splicing the wire works if it's done correctly. There's no need to spend an entire afternoon fixing it when an hour will yield the same results.
Works for me, thanks!
 

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Trosky, did you splice the new wire in to avoid having to thread the old wire through the engine bay? I'm wondering why you didn't just replace the whole wire?
There are a few reasons why I just spliced in a short replacement:

1. There is only one end with a connector (the end at the wheel) - the other "end" of the wire actually splices into another much larger factory wiring harness at some point up in the engine compartment somewhere. Getting to that factory splice would be a nightmare - soldering in the new wire there would be almost impossible without tearing the engine apart. It's not like it's a simple wire with connectors on both side that you can easily replace the whole thing.

2. More importantly, the part of the wire that fails is always within a foot or so of the wheel - so it really makes no sense to go through the hassle involved with #1 .

3. Also, the replacement pigtails are just that - just short replacement pigtails meant to be spliced in near the wheel - there really is no "whole" replacement wire because of #1 above. :)

Hope that helps!
 
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