Hi - anyone know the location of the HVAC relay on the 2010 Impala? Have seen some info that may point to it being part/inside the blower motor resistor....Can't get an answer specifically about the 2010...

Maybe the reason you can't find any info about the HVAC relay is....
There is none!!
The blower motor module power comes from the 'BATT 4' fuse.
The HVAC control module sends a control signal to the blower motor module to control the speed. If the blower motor module was faulty, that could leave the blower running after the car was off. Not sure if a bad HVAC control module could do the same thing.
The A/C compressor has a relay, but that has nothing to do with the blower.

 

Thanks for chiming in.

I meant to ask rhemabound where he found the relay reference. I have a very vague (very vague!) memory of previously seeing a mention of a relay in the context of the resistor, bird dogging it, and coming to the conclusion that there wasn't really a relay there.

In short, with the new resistor in place, if the fan controls work properly, button it up and call it done

Doug
.

 

ahhh-HA! .....ok, .....thanks a BUNCH for THAT info! ANY INFO....lol. Cold weather right around the corner...didn't make alot of progress over the weekend really. I'm going to take a shot at responding to what you said Bruce ....as sensibly as I can. Please bear with me. Soooo.......(warning - my mind is a bit tangled up with the terminology - and ok ...also how the circuit works on my car in particular - 2010 - since the design seems to vary on other years best I can tell)! Terminology check...when you say 'hvac control module' is that the same as the blower motor resistor module (speed controller)? .....and when you say 'blower motor module' (powered thru Batt 4) ....I'm not sure specifically what you mean. Yes - I am not a master mechanic .....barely an amateur. But do have history believe it or not ...in electronics. Ok ....years and years ago. ....but I do still fix things these days.....lolol.



.....thoughts....that may not make sense at all....but have to ask..... Sooooo - the BATT 4 could have blown ...causing blower to not blow at all now....correct? ..maybe??? (I did test the motor - grabbed 12vc off of the resistor module input connect (2 of the 5 pins have 12v ....(not the 2 of those 5 that go to the motor) .. I was able to power the 'disconnected' (and uninstalled actually) blower motor from those 2 pins I mentioned with the 12v. The motor about flew out of the car. It worked. ( yet another video showed me how to do that) ..... Ok, ....feeling the need to mention .....(sorry girls) I am a GIRL. lolol. Annnnd a grandma no less. A rocking grandma ...thank you very much.....lol. Ok ...back to the the point...and I do have one...... 'Yes the motor stayed on with car 'off''. ....a sign of a bad resistor...I guess. BUT ....one of the 200 videos I watched ...mentioned that 'high speed' is ran directly from the battery. (didn't mention if a 'fuse' was along the way - which would stand to reason of course) .......... I figure I definitely have a bad resistor .....and maybe a bad fuse. The dang fuse cap with the fuse layout (for under hood) ....did not say 'hey lady....this is the blower fuse...relay..... There was a 'bcm' fuse - which I erroneously figured was the blower control module - ....ha .....not the 'body control module'. (Ok ....maybe I do need to retire....but No ...not gonna quit here.....lol!) .......I saw ....in one of the videos ....of course....I swear - (Bill) ...they mentioned the relay in the blower control resistor module, ......but .....heck..... my brains are taking some heat....so ....yes I could be w-w-w-w-wrong.



Sorry for the lady chattiness........ To the point.....I'm guessing that BATT 4 fuse may be shot? I'll check it. Maybe swap with a matching one? (assuming I don't disable some other important link in the chain for that test). I'll figure that out - I know - run to the store and get one.



.....simply put - (Surprise!) .....once I get the wicked resistor module (with the stripped screw underneath the passenger dash - in about 3 inches of working area.......And get those friggin plastic beast pegs out of it .......(or just pry it animal style to get it off) ......I can replace the BATT 4 fuse ...if necessary ........and be ready for cold weather (day after tomorrow......lolol) ......I have a big God .....soooooo.......He'll be comin thru very soon I'm sure. Already chimed in - through you guys. thanks so much for reading my technical novel.....jeeeeeez!

 

Terminology check...when you say 'hvac control module' is that the same as the blower motor resistor module (speed controller)? .....and when you say 'blower motor module' (powered thru Batt 4) ....I'm not sure specifically what you mean.

The HVAC control module is the brains of the HVAC, it takes the settings you select and sends signals to the damper actuators and the blower motor module (resistor module).

...and when you say 'blower motor module' (powered thru Batt 4) ....I'm not sure specifically what you mean.

The Blower Motor Module is what you're calling the resistor module, and yes it's the speed controller for the blower.

Sooooo - the BATT 4 could have blown ...causing blower to not blow at all now....correct? ..maybe??? (I did test the motor - grabbed 12vc off of the resistor module input connect (2 of the 5 pins have 12v

If you got the blower to run with the power from the connector (Red & Black wires), then the fuse (BATT 4) is OK. Unless you've blown it since you did the test.

BUT ....one of the 200 videos I watched ...mentioned that 'high speed' is ran directly from the battery.

This is where you're watching TOO many videos. The older resistor modules did have a separate HIGH SPEED wire from the battery. The 2010 Impalas use a more modern "resistor" module, it doesn't use resistors to control the blower speed. It uses solid state electronics that can go bad in several different ways, full power (shorted), DOA (nothing happening), or stuck on one speed (not likely).

Hope this helps

 

Hi Bill - I saw it in a video ....one of the million I have watched.... I swear. Ok, .....I don't know now - maybe I heard wrong. But am GLAD the dang thing doesn't exist. I'm not even sure why I'm glad about it - at this point. This has been quite a troubleshooting trek ---- Egads! ....the 2010 is like a ghost car......all other models show up on Goog searches .....but very few on the dang 2010. I saw there were some difference technically that may matter - so I pursued 'the Chevy Impala Blower Motor Resistor' replacement .....(along with 'the dumb relay search I confess) ......but not ONE.....not ONE video for the resistor removal was for the 2010. Not one. ...that started my brain scrambling....ok, ....obviously it was already started.....but you get my point! lolol. ...... I will check the BATT 4 fuse (relay?) .....replace if necessary and then get the dang resistor out.....(with plenty of light..good glasses, hammer, chisel....grenade) ......and be on my way with a warm car in Michigan! ....Thx for your input!!

 

Oh jeez....my earlier reply ended up in the bit bucket...not sure what happened. Yes Bruce - I did get the blower to work from the resistor power plug - so fuse ok then. Annnd actually - I had checked it already - but it is that 'BCM' fuse under the hood - I saw somewhere out there that that was a 'body control module' ...and thought ok, ...maybe there's a relay I'm missing ....annnnd of course I had run across another 'something else' out there that said the relay was in the blower motor resistor module. So many variations ....but none were specific to the 2010. Lotsa heater/blower motor resistor videos on other Impala models - but NOT THE 2010. .....that's how I ended up watching a million videos. I'm punch drunk from all of the different info...ha...lol.



Ok - well thanks Bruce for taking the time to spell the pieces out for me. And Bill.....I'm going to get the resistor out and replace that. The screw that I thought was stripped ..I don't think is. Annnd.....it's the screw that holds the little module casing together I think so won't need to mess with it. Still got that black peg...2 black pegs? to get out. I looked the part up online and the pegs are in the mount holes on the side of the module. 2 holes on each side - each side had 1 black peg and 1 screw/bolt. Bolts are out - now for the dreaded pegs. I'm about to learn something. Ha.

 

The pegs aren't guide/dowel pins that the module simply positions upon? Nevermind, I just saw the pic with the head on the peg/pin.

 

They have a head on them....sooooo.....I think that's what Bill is talking about when he says 'get the chisel'. Chisel those heads off - there is one on each end. Each end has a mount tab with one screw and this black beast. ......was worth a shot tho Sheila......appreeciate the effort tho!! One video I watched - a guy said he actually drilled them out - carefullly. ....about to take the plunge and chisel them buggers out. ....dang this site so laggy - took me 40 minutes to get this comment typed. My firefox process is now up to 2 gig big ....that's ka-razy. Not sure why that is happening ... Anyway... Thanks Sheila....appreciate it.

 

I've replaced my BM twice in my 2010. Replaced the resistor twice. The relay is good but replaced it anyway. Even replaced my ecm. Still no HVAC. I replaced the entire dash control knobs piece as well. When I turn HVAC on it works when it wants , not when it's freezing or 120 outside. Weird. I have spent nearly 10k and still not fixed. Car is worth 3k or less but I refuse to buy new. If you find a fix please let me know.

 

This is an old post you probably wont get a response here. Make a new post with your issues .....10000 to fix a heater/air problem is insane crazy